1964 Valiant straight axle build

[DV8]

I saw this '64 at the Billetproof Drags last year....It turned out that it belongs to a buddy....

I started looking for my own right after that, and found this one on Craigslist...I ended up getting it for $1,000!!! It was a V8, bucket seat, power steering car. It has the original paint, and was a pretty solid body.

I had my buddy pick it up and take it to his shop in Tampa...I work right down the road a ways, and it's easy to keep an eye on it, and get the parts to him! Niether of us have put a straight axle in a car that didn't originally come with one, so it's a learning experience for both of us!

Here it is all stripped out...

Old engine:

Empty engine bay:

Interior out:

Suspension out:

We put a 1957 Ford 9-inch in it with Super Stock springs, it has a 3:70 posi center section, and it is about an inch or so narrower than a stock A-body rear. It bolted right up, but we used Speedway spring pads, that have three positions to mount the springs, and we were able to center the rear wheels in the wheelwells better.

Here it is with the Speedway, 4 inch, dropped, straight axle kit mocked up. It has Mustang II disc brakes. They are kinda small, but clear alot of different wheels, and are fine for a light car.

We had to trim the K member a little to get the front spring pads as far back as possible so as to not have to cut the fenders for tire clearance. They were originally mounted right to the stock framerails, but my buddy put a square tube spacer in there to get the front end up a little. He had to do that to try to get the, now manual, steering to clear the tie rod and draglink. It still hits a little, so we are going to have to go with some different steering arms, or if that doesn't work, go with an un-dropped axle. We have to get the new drivetrain (360/727) in there to get a final idea of what we need to do for the steering.

Not the best detail pics, but the lights were off at his shop today, he was about to head home by the time I got there, but that's where we are at this point.

The oil pan came in, so we can get the drivetrain in there next week, and see where we are on the steering.

 

[1971dodgedart/6]

I saw this '64 at the Billetproof Drags last year....It turned out that it belongs to a buddy....

I started looking for my own right after that, and found this one on Craigslist...I ended up getting it for $1,000!!! It was a V8, bucket seat, power steering car. It has the original paint, and was a pretty solid body.

I had my buddy pick it up and take it to his shop in Tampa...I work right down the road a ways, and it's easy to keep an eye on it, and get the parts to him! Niether of us have put a straight axle in a car that didn't originally come with one, so it's a learning experience for both of us!

Here it is all stripped out...

Old engine:

Empty engine bay:

Interior out:

Suspension out:

We put a 1957 Ford 9-inch in it with Super Stock springs, it has a 3:70 posi center section, and it is about an inch or so narrower than a stock A-body rear. It bolted right up, but we used Speedway spring pads, that have three positions to mount the springs, and we were able to center the rear wheels in the wheelwells better.

Here it is with the Speedway, 4 inch, dropped, straight axle kit mocked up. It has Mustang II disc brakes. They are kinda small, but clear alot of different wheels, and are fine for a light car.

We had to trim the K member a little to get the front spring pads as far back as possible so as to not have to cut the fenders for tire clearance. They were originally mounted right to the stock framerails, but my buddy put a square tube spacer in there to get the front end up a little. He had to do that to try to get the, now manual, steering to clear the tie rod and draglink. It still hits a little, so we are going to have to go with some different steering arms, or if that doesn't work, go with an un-dropped axle. We have to get the new drivetrain (360/727) in there to get a final idea of what we need to do for the steering.

Not the best detail pics, but the lights were off at his shop today, he was about to head home by the time I got there, but that's where we are at this point.

The oil pan came in, so we can get the drivetrain in there next week, and see where we are on the steering.

WOW i like that thats so damn cool and probably make that car even lighter than it is. shes gunna flyyy

 

[DV8]

Thanks, I think so....After selling the old 273/904, I only have $100 in the 360/727, so I should have some money for some good speed goodies!

 

[rickstershemi]

Nice project....I would lose the K-Frame altogether and go with a motor plate and it's screaming for a 4-speed.....!!!!!!!!!!

Rickster

 

[pettybludart]

Nice project.I wanted to go straight axel,but decided against it.I still built my car to be be fast though.LOL.Good luck with the build.

PS TTI now makes step headers for under chassis Early-A,s(1 3/4 tubes)if you want the 360 to breath.

 

[DV8]

Nice project....I would lose the K-Frame altogether and go with a motor plate and it's screaming for a 4-speed.....!!!!!!!!!!

Rickster

Thanks! If we were putting a Hemi in it, we might have done that, but swaping an LA engine for another LA engine...and wanting all the steering, frame, and sheetmetal to go back together easy...it was easier just to use the K member.

 

[DV8]

Nice project.I wanted to go straight axel,but decided against it.I still built my car to be be fast though.LOL.Good luck with the build.

PS TTI now makes step headers for under chassis Early-A,s(1 3/4 tubes)if you want the 360 to breath.

Thanks! I have the Hooker Super Comp 5208-1HKR. They will probably account for the whole exhaust, so not too much restriction! I might make a couple pipes with some small, tube-style, mufflers for long trips.

 

[rickstershemi]

Thanks! If we were putting a Hemi in it, we might have done that, but swaping an LA engine for another LA engine...and wanting all the steering, frame, and sheetmetal to go back together easy...it was easier just to use the K member.

Was just thinking you could make a bracket for the steering box and lose the rest of that unneeded weight.....maybe I'm missing something, but with the switch to the SFA it just seems like it would be a much cleaner install....just offering my thoughts on options.....looks great :cheers:

Rickster

 

[DV8]

I agree that in some cases it would be easier. For instance: You can buy ready made front frame stubs for tri-five Chevys, and first generation Novas, but that application assumes that you are, for the most part, going to use a one-piece fiberglass, tilt front end, and you only have to line up the pivot bar in the front.

In my case, I would have had to fabricate a mount for the steering, and then make adjustments to the steering linkage, as the box would most likely have to be closer to the frame. Then I would need to make mounts on the frame to mount the engine (with or without the motor plate), then there would still need to be some kind of brace between the stock framerails to restore strength.

The weight savings, in my opinion, are not worth the extra money and work to get it all to work right.

If I were to make a square tube frame stub, I would have to also make radiator mounts, and lots of braces to get the front clip to line up.

Like I said, both ways work, and a "hot rod" style front frame set up would be easier to set up the steering without custom parts, but in my case it was way more simple to use the stock K member, and weight savings aren't that big of a deal with me, as it's not going to be a race only car.

Thanks for the kind words everybody!

 

[MoparJoe20]

Thanks! I have the Hooker Super Comp 5208-1HKR. They will probably account for the whole exhaust, so not too much restriction! I might make a couple pipes with some small, tube-style, mufflers for long trips.

Unless you paid full retail for the hookers I'd look for a set of hedmans - they're bigger and easier to work with - the 2 in 2 over the rail setup was a PIA to work with, the hedmans are 4 over the rail and almost fall in the car.

 

[DV8]

I paid about $750 delivered. I saw a set of the hedmans used on Craigslist for cheap, but they were kinda beat up, and un-coated.

Too late to waste that money now...I'll deal with them.

When I was looking for them, these were the only fenderwell headers for a small block, early, A body that I could find.

 

[bamacuda]

very nice car. i just found a 64 Hardtop Valiant. I offered $500, he said ok. No engine or trans, but he may throw in a truck load of parts. I am thinking of something a lot like you are doing. Cool!

 

[MoparJoe20]

One of my friends stuck with them on his '65 for years because of how much they cost, when he put his '66 together he used hedmans and they're about the easiest but 1 tube had to be reworked to fit around the dual circuit MC, his '64 has TTI's and they're the worst to install- it's a 4 speed so the column, box, Z bar and linkage all had to come out.

The 65 &66 were regular valiants so he doesn't care about chopping on them but the 64 is an original paint V8/4 speed car so he didn't want to chop the inner fenders on it.

 

[slantscamp]

awsome build. that has the perfect stance.

 

[fstfish66]

very kool project,, often have thought about a straigt axel in my 66 now that the straight axle craz is back,,, like that you kept the K member it will keep the strength you would loose by removing it,,,

the hooker 5208,s arent a bad deal,,shame u dont have a junker to pratice on,,, i had those headers long ago,,and did not need the size of hole in the fenders that the instructions say you do,,,,i made a much smaller hole way below the top of the inner fender well,,,, jacked the car up removed the wheels,,and slipped the headers down in the smaller hole and spinning them in to position at the same time,,,i only had one piece i cut out,,,and i saved it,, welded it back in,,when i had custom headers made,,,keep posting pics very KOOL

 

[az426hemi]

DV8 - Thanks for the pics!!

Have you fit in the engine yet?
I was wondering what the clearances are with the engine installed.

Thanks,
Mike

 

[moparlee]

sweat, that thing is going to be lots of fun.

 

[Backtobasics]

:cheers::cheers:

 

[DV8]

Thanks guys! It looks like Joe is right about those Hooker headers. I'm going to have to buy a set of true fenderwells as these are more like semi-fenderwell, and they aren't going to clear the springs. Well that's the way things go... I guess these will be on Craigslist next week! . Also, the deep oil pan is not going to clear the axle enough, so we'll have to put another spacer in the front axle perch to give proper suspension travel. Those are today's problems! . Nothing that can't be overcome! At least everyone can learn by our mistakes!

 

[fstfish66]

have you tired a rear sump stock oil pan out of a van/truck ?? miladon also makes a big sump with a tube thru it for the drag link if that will work,,,you may need to make a deep center sump pan to clear all the linkage,, but it can be done VERY KOOL,,,

 

[DV8]

Yeah, it had a truck pan on it...There is no way it will clear the drag link and tie rod with that rear sump pan. A stock, center sump, pan would have cleared the axle, but the Moroso, deep sump, was going to hit. I would rather jack the car up a couple more inches than not have enough oil capacity for a street/strip car.

 

[slantysix]

How about a list of parts for the conversion, thinking of doing it on a 64 valaint 2dr post. Currently stariaring to take it apart and looking for ideas...

 

[pettybludart]

Thanks guys! It looks like Joe is right about those Hooker headers. I'm going to have to buy a set of true fenderwells as these are more like semi-fenderwell, and they aren't going to clear the springs. Well that's the way things go... I guess these will be on Craigslist next week! . Also, the deep oil pan is not going to clear the axle enough, so we'll have to put another spacer in the front axle perch to give proper suspension travel. Those are today's problems! . Nothing that can't be overcome! At least everyone can learn by our mistakes!

Sorry to hear your header whoa.I have the Heddman Huslers in my 66 Dart(weren,t cheap coated)I ordered through Summit and they took 3 weeks to make and deliver.Get ready to cut and fit.Here,s some pics of my job..









I mounted the twin master cyl. on the top 2 posts and customised an adjustable push rod for brakes.Have any questions,just ask.Good luck!

 

[fstfish66]

i had full fender wells years ago in a 66 with an iron dual master,,it never interfered but a suggestion,,ide reroute that brake line you have running between the header tubes,,massive heat will make that fluid break down and fail,,

 

[DV8]

Thanks for the pics. I'm going to run that same master cylinder and heat shield, and it helps to see that. I was going to use one of those new Speedway proportioning valve/brake light switch combos but it looks like it might not fit unless it's mounted higher.

Any shots of where the collectors exit? The main problem with the Hookers were that they interfered with the back part of the springs. If they were true fenderwells I think they might have worked.

I'll get up a parts rundown once I get it all sorted out.