1965 273 Charger Carter Carb

-
Rustyfish

Rustyfish

Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2015
Messages
1,334
Reaction score
1,059
Location
Shawnee, KS
I am working on the car in this thread,

Get Running & Driving 2-1965 Dodge Dart

I have cleaned up the car pretty well but it was in storage for almost 30 years and the Carter 4bbl had a mouse nest inside. I'm looking for advice on how to proceed, anybody been there done that? Planning to remove the carb and rebuild. Anything else?
 
rustyfish said:
I am working on the car in this thread,

Get Running & Driving 2-1965 Dodge Dart

I have cleaned up the car pretty well but it was in storage for almost 30 years and the Carter 4bbl had a mouse nest inside. I'm looking for advice on how to proceed, anybody been there done that? Planning to remove the carb and rebuild. Anything else?
Click to expand...
Try to rebuild it. I found a used 600 Edelbrock for $100 at a swap meet to get me running. My original carb was not good. The 600 is still in there. Starts every time, runs great and gets damn near 20 mpg. Electric choke is a plus. Just sayin.
 
toolmanmike said:
Try to rebuild it. I found a used 600 Edelbrock for $100 at a swap meet to get me running. My original carb was not good. The 600 is still in there. Starts every time, runs great and gets damn near 20 mpg. Electric choke is a plus. Just sayin.
Click to expand...
I found a rebuild kit that’s not very expensive so I’ll try that first. Wondering if I’ll need to pull the intake too.
 
rustyfish said:
I found a rebuild kit that’s not very expensive so I’ll try that first. Wondering if I’ll need to pull the intake too.
Click to expand...
Not a bad idea you never know what might be in there.
 
rustyfish said:
I found a rebuild kit that’s not very expensive so I’ll try that first. Wondering if I’ll need to pull the intake too.
Click to expand...
decide after you remove the carb.
Its a single plane - yes? Should be able to vacuum it out but depends what's in there.

Carb - see what's in there and condition of the metal. Insects can crawl into the bowl vents but generally the worst is going to be dried fuel residue (varnish) and failed seals and gaskets. Ultrasonic cleaners are the best way to clean them, but need a decent size one. So just take your time. Let it soak the best you can. Spray cleaner through everything and blow it out with air.
 
Mattax said:
decide after you remove the carb.
Its a single plane - yes? Should be able to vacuum it out but depends what's in there.

Carb - see what's in there and condition of the metal. Insects can crawl into the bowl vents but generally the worst is going to be dried fuel residue (varnish) and failed seals and gaskets. Ultrasonic cleaners are the best way to clean them, but need a decent size one. So just take your time. Let it soak the best you can. Spray cleaner through everything and blow it out with air.
Click to expand...
I have a ultrasonic. Yes they work great. Tag wire also works good for cleaning passages.
 
Are you just asking about the carb or the whole car? Oil, trans, gas tank, etc? 30 years is a long time.
 
Hyper_pak said:
Are you just asking about the carb or the whole car? Oil, trans, gas tank, etc? 30 years is a long time.
Click to expand...
Well mostly talking about the carb in this thread. Of course the whole car as well.

I do know the oil was full and as clean as brand new, weird. Gas tank is bad and will be replaced. Haven't gotten near the trans yet. Lots of things to check still. But one thing at a time right?
 
yea, it's a process. I bought a cheap ebay kit for my carb from ebay, had everything I needed. I am running a 4119S. Just cleaned it good and bought an pump for todays gas, ebay also. All good so far.
 
toolmanmike said:
Try to rebuild it. I found a used 600 Edelbrock for $100 at a swap meet to get me running. My original carb was not good. The 600 is still in there. Starts every time, runs great and gets damn near 20 mpg. Electric choke is a plus. Just sayin.
Click to expand...
This Carter is model 3853 S, records showing correct that I can find for this engine and 4 speed manual trans. What's the difference between a manual and automatic carb and are the Edelbrocks made to distinguish also? Were you able to use the chrome air cleaner on your Eddie?
 
rustyfish said:
This Carter is model 3853 S, records showing correct that I can find for this engine and 4 speed manual trans. What's the difference between a manual and automatic carb and are the Edelbrocks made to distinguish also? Were you able to use the chrome air cleaner on your Eddie?
Click to expand...
The throttle linkage is the difference. The automatic has provisions for transmission kickdown. I bought a cheap parts store air cleaner just for the base so I could use the Charger chrome top.

engine 296.jpg
 
rustyfish said:
Cool, do you have a pic of the base? Does the dashpot control the choke?
Click to expand...
I don't have a photo of the base. The thermostatic coil in the intake controls the choke of the stock carb. The Edelbrock is either a manual choke controlled with a cable or an electric choke.
 
To add, the dashpot acts as a cushion, prevents the throttle from slamming shut too quickly (possibly stalling the engine if it did).
 
I'm not sure how, exactly. It's hooked to vacuum, so I imagine using a handheld vac pump on it, or unhooking the hose from it (and plugging the carb end) (with engine running) would prove something. Should be info in the factory service manual.
 
rustyfish said:
Thanks for that. Is there a way to test it's functionality?
Click to expand...
Show us a photo. I know what a dashpot is but I doubt a 65 has one. Do you have a carb number as well. Just to make sure it's a 65 carb?
 
Not a dashpot. It's a primary choke pull off. Yes, the carb is a 65 carb.
 
toolmanmike said:
Not a dashpot. It's a primary choke pull off. Yes, the carb is a 65 carb.
Click to expand...
Yeah it looks pretty cruddy. I really need a big picture plan of attack on this baby. Much of the engine compartment wiring looks a little crispy. Bulkhead connector actually looks decent, but...
Also need to figure out how to lube the cylinders before much else.
 
rustyfish said:
Yeah it looks pretty cruddy. I really need a big picture plan of attack on this baby. Much of the engine compartment wiring looks a little crispy. Bulkhead connector actually looks decent, but...
Also need to figure out how to lube the cylinders before much else.
Click to expand...
Have you tried to turn it over? Pull the plugs ad fog the bores with WD 40, penetrating oil, or even some atf.
 
toolmanmike said:
Have you tried to turn it over? Pull the plugs ad fog the bores with WD 40, penetrating oil, or even some atf.
Click to expand...
I put a breaker bar on it and it does turn so it’s not frozen. I’d like to make sure I do all possible to ensure a damage free startup when I get there. Have to pull the wiring harnesses apart and see what I need to do there first.
 
rustyfish said:
I put a breaker bar on it and it does turn so it’s not frozen. I’d like to make sure I do all possible to ensure a damage free startup when I get there. Have to pull the wiring harnesses apart and see what I need to do there first.
Click to expand...
I bought some electrical terminal cleaners and renewed mine. You can cut down a flexable fingernail file and do the same.
 
toolmanmike said:
Not a dashpot. It's a primary choke pull off. Yes, the carb is a 65 carb.
Click to expand...
Agree. Looks like its the choke 'qualifier'.
The shop book with have the settings, but the operation works like this:
First choke setting is the position cold, before starting. The flap is almost closed.
As soon at the engine fires up and turns over at running rpm, manifold vacuum pulls that diaphram and opens the choke slightly. That's the running choked position.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top