1965 Barracuda Build

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It has arrived....Finally seen the car in person for the first time and drove it.

Very solid and drives very smooth. Went down a bumpy road waiting for the bumps, but there weren't none.

So that is impressive. Transmission make a massive clunck when putting in gear. Not surprised but shifts and acelerates good.

The interior is a little torn up. There's a lot of parts in the trunk, Its like a treasure chest in there.

Popped the trunk and the inside of the quarter panels look sweet.

That soundproof and red paint look decent, if not great.

And the click of those solid lifter. Sounds like a typewriter. Either way,.won't be listening to that motor but it does have some pep to it.

Somehow passenger rear window trim vanished between california and boston, but.. there a perfectly fine one in the trunk.

Previous owner seen the video of it coming off the rig and asked where was it, and I was said in the trunk and he said no. That was an extra. Blew off maybe? Or held for ransom! Lol

The previous owner said, the guy he bought the car from put barracudas together and this was his last. Have paperwork in the Guys name. History is fun..Interesting history. Clearly needs a dash pad and tlc inside. But not to bad.

Can't wait to.clean off the 50 pounds of barn dust and road salt.

Ill be looking to improve cornering but the ride is nice.

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haha, when i took my anglia wagon gasser to the track the first time there were 2 bits of front screen chrome trim missing when i got there. it does happen so think yourself lucky you had spares in the trunk, i didn't. :BangHead:
neil.
 
Haven't made it into the trunk very.far but tomorrow for sure. Did go for a ride and got some power washing done.

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My dyslexia kicked in when I had to use a b body large ball joint and a larger upper and then go to Napa auto parts and get Cadillac brake parts and a Toyota caliper.

Then, I found wildwood makes one where my arms do not need to be thrown out. I think this cost about $200 more when its all said and done.

Decent quality, 11" drilled, slotted and vented. Pads and all.

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Trunk and treats.

First swipe at whole lotta junk in that trunk.

Will wrap up the excavation tomorrow with more pictures.

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Nice looking Barracuda
I like what you have planned
I just purchased a 65 barracuda with S6 auto 7-1/4 rear - wish it was the 273 but wasn’t a deal breaker.
Following this post :popcorn:

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Nice looking Barracuda
I like what you have planned
I just purchased a 65 barracuda with S6 auto 7-1/4 rear - wish it was the 273 but wasn’t a deal breaker.
Following this post :popcorn:

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Thank you guys for the kind words, Thats a clean one you have there. Very sharp, Im sure it has a great story, and that just part of the fun. Id love to hear all about it.

The one I have, I like it the way it is, a little pep. Could buzz around with some TLC. It drives great, but my original intent was buy a car, Not overly concerned about keeping it stock. Turn it into a car thats a blast to drive.Ice cold AC, a modern 5 speed, over 400P.

rather than drive a honda civic, give me that modern barracuda..at least in summer.

I was looking for a solid platform that didnt need alot of welding. The old saying is you never get back what you put into it. That will probably be half true. Ill spend more than I could sell it for, but If I get a driver the way I hope for. Its worth the few bucks to me.
Cheers! time for a cold one
 
Ok Got 5 inces of snow today 7 coming on monday, but that just means more time indoors looking for a few parts and pieces to get the project lined up.

couldnt say no to the deal at summit.
Adjustable torsion bars, hope the ride dosent get much rougher, Any comment on experience with these is welcome

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Ok Got 5 inces of snow today 7 coming on monday, but that just means more time indoors looking for a few parts and pieces to get the project lined up.

couldnt say no to the deal at summit.
Adjustable torsion bars, hope the ride dosent get much rougher, Any comment on experience with these is welcome

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These are strut rods, not torsion bars. They will not change your ride dynamics. It is a good upgrade.
 
Good lookin car! Your clunk is likely caused by the engine idling too high.
 
Thank-you guys. The idle is high. That would make sense. Im not sure if its a rebuilt carb or what.

I recall hearing new gas tank and new carb but that could be new to you.. Ill get some pictures and post. The license plate expired in 2000 so is been resting for at least 26 years.

If does fire right up and runs smooth. I noticed one kick down as it warms up. .. but haven't run it much. Its a nice little 273 under there.

Im still looking to better undstand how these bars actually

Not sure how these bars operate. Lol. Im familiar with coils and leaf spring.. and I guess the preload on the rubber and steel bar, Torsion bar flexes and want to rebound to the ride height. Im usually off a bit on the actually dynamics. Not sure how the bars are sprung. Haha.

I'll be the first to admit. I dont know. Lol.
 
Thank-you guys. The idle is high. That would make sense. Im not sure if its a rebuilt carb or what.

I recall hearing new gas tank and new carb but that could be new to you.. Ill get some pictures and post. The license plate expired in 2000 so is been resting for at least 26 years.

If does fire right up and runs smooth. I noticed one kick down as it warms up. .. but haven't run it much. Its a nice little 273 under there.

Im still looking to better undstand how these bars actually

Not sure how these bars operate. Lol. Im familiar with coils and leaf spring.. and I guess the preload on the rubber and steel bar, Torsion bar flexes and want to rebound to the ride height. Im usually off a bit on the actually dynamics. Not sure how the bars are sprung. Haha.

I'll be the first to admit. I dont know. Lol.
Might just be that it hasn't warmed up enough to kick the choke off all the way. Either way, once you do run it a while, I'd still adjust the fast idle, because you don't want it slamming into gear. That can damage the transmission.
 
Not sure how these bars operate. Lol. Im familiar with coils and leaf spring.. and I guess the preload on the rubber and steel bar, Torsion bar flexes and want to rebound to the ride height. Im usually off a bit on the actually dynamics. Not sure how the bars are sprung. Haha.
These are torsion bars:
They index into the pivot point of the lower control arm, the rear is anchored in the frame crossmember that also is where the transmission crossmember bolts into place. This is your spring, they work by resisting twist. A coil spring also works by resisting twist. When a coil spring compresses it twists... so they act similar, but the packaging is way different. In a pure engineering sense, the torsion bar is superior because its weight is completely carried in the body. The bar on the left is 0.990", bar on the right is 1.12". Yours are very likely much smaller diameter than the ones in the picture.

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The strut rods are effectively part of the lower control arm. They locate the lower control arm in the fore/aft direction. On the right side of the picture I drew a thin red line on top of the torsion bar. The bolt you see sticking out of the lower control arm is the preload adjustment / ride height adjusting bolt.
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Torsion bar socket on lower control arm:
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torsion bar socket in the frame:
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Ok, I see what your explaning. I really need a manual to better undstand this car.

strut bar has nothing to to with the torsion of the suspension as you explain, really just the control arm action?

what I was looking to do was get adjustable torsion bars. lol

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they are adjustable. there's a bolt head you'll see under the lower control arm. tighten it and the car ride height goes up, loosen and it goes down. the 'spring' rate of the torsion bar is fixed though.
neil.
 
they are adjustable. there's a bolt head you'll see under the lower control arm. tighten it and the car ride height goes up, loosen and it goes down. the 'spring' rate of the torsion bar is fixed though.
neil.
thank you... I was thinking of dropping the car a couple inches, and firming that up. Im still processing how this all works together. I do like the torsion style, its just brand new to me
 
strut bar has nothing to to with the torsion of the suspension as you explain, really just the control arm action?

The lower control arm and strut rod act together like a giant A-arm. The adjustable strut rod you have gets rid of the front bushing and has a pivot instead. It also gets rid of the compliance in the bushing but not in a bad way. At the rear where it goes into the lower control arm the length can be adjusted as needed. You would want them to be same as stock, same side to side, and put the lower ball joint in same position it is now as a starting point. I have seen many originals bent, and I often see them with some slop where when you take the car from forward to reverse the wheel shifts forward a bit.

When you install these you want to make sure the pivot is oriented so that the LCA swings up and down freely without binding.
 
Great, I have actully learned some good infomation. this is awsome.

lets say we keep the stock arms, lower the car.

I was thinking adjustable torsion bar make sence, rather than have a loose adjustment?

recommendations on type of torsion bar on what brand?
I actully like the idea of a urethane rather than aluminum bushing, a little give?

.. Its not an all out race care. more driver with some performance


this is productive learning for me
 
Thank-you guys. The idle is high. That would make sense. Im not sure if its a rebuilt carb or what.

I recall hearing new gas tank and new carb but that could be new to you.. Ill get some pictures and post. The license plate expired in 2000 so is been resting for at least 26 years.

If does fire right up and runs smooth. I noticed one kick down as it warms up. .. but haven't run it much. Its a nice little 273 under there.

Im still looking to better undstand how these bars actually

Not sure how these bars operate. Lol. Im familiar with coils and leaf spring.. and I guess the preload on the rubber and steel bar, Torsion bar flexes and want to rebound to the ride height. Im usually off a bit on the actually dynamics. Not sure how the bars are sprung. Haha.

I'll be the first to admit. I dont know. Lol.
Torsion bars ARE coil springs that happen to not be in a coil, but straight. The ends are hexed and fit into female hexes. One end anchored into the rear torsion bar cross member, the front end anchored into the lower control arm pivot. as the suspension jounces, it twists the torsion bar creating it to act like a straight spring. Simple.
 
Great, I have actully learned some good infomation. this is awsome.

lets say we keep the stock arms, lower the car.

I was thinking adjustable torsion bar make sence, rather than have a loose adjustment?

recommendations on type of torsion bar on what brand?

I actully like the idea of a urethane rather than aluminum bushing, a little give?

.. Its not an all out race care. more driver with some performance


this is productive learning for me
Jump over to mymopar.com and download a copy of the service manual for your car. They don't have them all but they have yours. It's free. And then, so something really novel. Read it. LOL
 
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