1965 Dart 270 convertible!

Members Restorations

  1. 65dartcharger

    65dartcharger Dart Charger 273 Historian FABO Gold Member

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    This winter is the first winter for the last 15 year that I don't have a project working on. Well I have a rear end I'm gonna finish for the lastest Dart Charger 273.

    So this winter I offered my buddy Johan to restore and change his convertible top on his Dart. As you can see there are some rips, a crached bow and a yellowish rear window.

    I guess next step is to shoot some pictures so I know where I started.

    Merry Christmas to you all!

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    • Avispa

      Avispa FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      I'm starting to think 65 Darts were made in Sweden! '=)

      Merry Christmas.
       
    • 65dartcharger

      65dartcharger Dart Charger 273 Historian FABO Gold Member

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      Haha, that's a good one!
       
    • Avispa

      Avispa FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      Kinda like an elephant graveyard for 65 Darts !
       
    • 66Dvert

      66Dvert Working on my custom car parts again! FABO Gold Member

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      measure the rear bow height. there were 2 sizes 24.5 and one other(might be 25 or 26, I'd have to search again). some top manufactures do ask and it makes a difference on how the top rear section looks for 65-66 only for some reason
       
    • 65dartcharger

      65dartcharger Dart Charger 273 Historian FABO Gold Member

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      Where do you get those measures? Can you show me on a picture? That would be great!

      Today my plans was to remove the old top. Some of the screws holding the stainless roof rail moulding was tricky. I wonder when they was off the car last time?

      Anyway took pictures so I know where the screws were before I removed them.

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    • 65dartcharger

      65dartcharger Dart Charger 273 Historian FABO Gold Member

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      More pictures.....
      It seems that the rear bow is two U-profiles welded into each other to keep the strenght.
      Anyone tried to straight them out?

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    • 66Dvert

      66Dvert Working on my custom car parts again! FABO Gold Member

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      ok 2 things pop out at me 1 the rear bow gets measured right where it's bent in the center of the Car to the dutchmans panel , so you will want to pretty much match the curve of the frist bow behind the header panel in front to the rear curve DON'T resize the cables on the sides. thay tell you the true (to that convertible top that was on it ) bow height. pull them taught and measure from this pic ( center of rear bow and use the tack strip screw hole and - .25 of an inch to get correct measurement , yup it's awkward since it is in the center. it's better to measure before you take the top off next time though, but now just make sure the side tensioners are tight.
      rear bow measure ment.jpg



      now the Rip in the sides was because the installer screwed up and put a screw in front where it's not supposed to be
      that part is supposed to float and is inside the car but into the well liner to drain water into the well and out to the ground. blow the bottom pic up a bit and you will get the general measurement of where the last screw that anchors the top will go. the rest of them going towards the front just hold the well liner and tack strip on.
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      convertible top install01.jpg dart top pic 2.jpg



      Make a not as to what holes those 2 metal plates(they have threes holes usually and can be mounted differently for A and B body cars) and the Tension cables fit into and post pics of that area for us to make sure and to see if the installer goofed up there too. It does make a difference on how the top and well liner looks. I use Weldon Brush on contact cement to glue the well liner(formica laminate glue works too but isn't quite as strong) to the outer frame and also on the wheel well humps to make it look good and smooth things out, Weights are your friends along with warm weather or a hot garage.


      dang ok measure the sdies top tension springs and save them if they are even close to the same length since they are not made anymore and the universal ones are about 1 inch too long to hold the top on the sides down enough while driving and letting even more wind noise (well and rain) into the car. now go back through you pictures of the tack strips and look at the Stainless. mark the tack strip where the stainless holes are so that when you put the tack strips back on you DO NOT use them, saves taking out screws time and time again(ask me how I know :BangHead::BangHead::BangHead:) !!!3holes.jpg
      mine going in and waiting to get glued to the wheel well humps

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      Last edited: Dec 26, 2019
    • 65dartcharger

      65dartcharger Dart Charger 273 Historian FABO Gold Member

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      Thanks for the tips. I thought all tops had the same measurements. I will measure tomorrow to compare. The cables are still in place and as it was for the old top.
      The side tension springs ate the factory ones and in very good condition.
      Those long mounting plate with three screws are still there. It's pretty much all there but needs some TLC.
      The mecanism is white. I was wondering if I should power coat it? That would keep it in shape for years.
       
    • 66Dvert

      66Dvert Working on my custom car parts again! FABO Gold Member

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      you could but remember those pivot pins connecting the back 2 arms to the rest of the top pivit pins.jpg

      Are a PAIN in the rear to get out in good shape(as in I have only gotten 1 out of 20 tries then had to get that side frame section replaced on my dime so I won't try any more). The roll pine is a monster to get out. And if you powder coat it they want to lock into the arm so just be careful since no one make those pins any more and the allen screws that are setting the alignment and curve of the top frames are pretty much useless now from years of sitting unmoved and steel in aluminum doesn't play well. Why white though, I don't think you can get a white inside colored top anymore. (I did get one custom made with tan a headliner in it 35 years ago though like the porches, NEVER again will I do that! ) or does he just like the white frames?
       
    • 65dartcharger

      65dartcharger Dart Charger 273 Historian FABO Gold Member

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      The two rear bows are adjusted. The second one will be done tomorrow. I followed your tips 66Dvert and measured the distance between the rear bow and the dutchmans panel. It was 24,5 inch.

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      • 65dartcharger

        65dartcharger Dart Charger 273 Historian FABO Gold Member

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        The last bar is adjusted. The factor convertible boot is there but rock hard. I took some measurement for safety reason.
        It also has the factory water drain holes. Those are pretty rare to find!

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        • 65dartcharger

          65dartcharger Dart Charger 273 Historian FABO Gold Member

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          Next is to dis assemble the top mecanism. I take one half in time so nothing gets mounted incorrect.
          I also found out that the convertible boot was mouthed to the inside cover panels. That makes sence and I think it looks better.

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          • 65dartcharger

            65dartcharger Dart Charger 273 Historian FABO Gold Member

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            So finally the drivers side of the top mecanism is in parts! The insect adjustment screw is stuck.
            What have guys and gals used to open up the adjustment screws in the top mecanism??

            Thanks FABO

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          • 65dartcharger

            65dartcharger Dart Charger 273 Historian FABO Gold Member

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            Ok, everything is apart. Next will be to glass bead all parts.
            Two screws were broken so they need to be redrilled. I need to fabricate two new vinyl bushings for the mecanism.
            The lack of some kind of grease in the top mecanism was total. A wonder that it could move up and down. I had the same problem on my convertible.
            What kind of grease is the best to use on the top mecanism?

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          • 65dartcharger

            65dartcharger Dart Charger 273 Historian FABO Gold Member

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            Started glassbeading the convertible top mecanism. The first bar turned out really good. I just forgot how long time it takes to do glass beading but the result is well worth the time.

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            • 65dartcharger

              65dartcharger Dart Charger 273 Historian FABO Gold Member

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              Finally every bolt, pin, nut, washer and of cause the mecanism is glass beaded and painted in primer. Today I was able to test mount the parts to see how the fit was. Well, a lot better.
              Next will be to dis assembled everything again and paint it white like it used to.

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              • crvtec90

                crvtec90 Well-Known Member

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                :popcorn:
                 
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                • 65dartcharger

                  65dartcharger Dart Charger 273 Historian FABO Gold Member

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                  Since last time a lot of things has been done! We found some rust in the wheel wells as well as the trunk floor extensions and the lower part of the quarter panels. The rear valance was shot too so Johan did a super great welding job on his car.
                  I have focused on the mecanism and all the small parts. I also found out that the left side window mecanism needed some attention.
                  Now everything is in primer within the car. All the bows and mecanism parts have been glass beaded, primed and painted white.
                  Next thing is to paint the inside area ruby red. The pump and the hydraulic hoses will be mounted tomorrow.
                  Then the funny part begins with mounting the top mecanism!

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                  • 65dartcharger

                    65dartcharger Dart Charger 273 Historian FABO Gold Member

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                    Tonight I was able to get that ruby red paint applayed. But on one panel I found a small ding that needed some attention. Now the primer is there and tomorrow morning a new red paint will be there. Hope I can applay the clear coat too tomorrow so the fun part can begun!

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                  • 65dartcharger

                    65dartcharger Dart Charger 273 Historian FABO Gold Member

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                    Everything is painted ruby red incl two layers of clear coat.
                    Now the funny part to build the top mecanism starts. A little tricky with the lock pins holding all the brackets!

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                    • 66Dvert

                      66Dvert Working on my custom car parts again! FABO Gold Member

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                      mine is coming back apart for cleaning and beading. so I'm going to try the "heat and wax" method everyone says works great ti get the adjuster screws to move
                      . we'll see. as for lubricant I use the Honda High pressure lubricant that goes into the drive shaft on the honda goldwings. it's a bit pricey but since you use very little it lasts a long time.
                       
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                      • 65dartcharger

                        65dartcharger Dart Charger 273 Historian FABO Gold Member

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                        So today I was able to get all rods, brackets and bows back together. I need to get some new lock pins and adjust the length.
                        Then we can start adding the back window!!

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                      • 65dartcharger

                        65dartcharger Dart Charger 273 Historian FABO Gold Member

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                        On this car a white rubber moulding was mounted on the top frame. This one needed a good cleaning.
                        Anyone ever seen it on an early A convertible car? Can it have been mounted from the factory due to sharp edges?

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                      • 65dartcharger

                        65dartcharger Dart Charger 273 Historian FABO Gold Member

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                        This is how thr white rubber moulding looks ├Âike after a good cleaning. It mounts on the top frame. Never seen it before.

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