Yes Wade has been nothing but awesome and professional to me and my family!
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1965 MMP's Barracuda Hemi swap! The Ever Changing Build
- Thread starter MonkeyMadness
- Start date
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Finally an update.
Gauge cluster shipping out today for Dakota Digital. After beating it around with Josh at Dakota I've decided to scrap the cable drive speedo and go all elc. I'll still continue with the tans mod, but will run a elc drive wheel. Not that I need it now, the 46RE has two speed censors to use.
I took most of my only Saturday I have had off in almost 3month and finally got my lower IRS arms cut down. I also ordered a set of bronze race bushings for the Jag rearend. once I have them I can tack the lowers. Mock them up and make sure all my measurement are right then i can do a final weld before moving on to the upper shock mounts before dropping the car on the ground.. Hardest part of this whole rearend mod is finally done.
Gauge cluster shipping out today for Dakota Digital. After beating it around with Josh at Dakota I've decided to scrap the cable drive speedo and go all elc. I'll still continue with the tans mod, but will run a elc drive wheel. Not that I need it now, the 46RE has two speed censors to use.
I took most of my only Saturday I have had off in almost 3month and finally got my lower IRS arms cut down. I also ordered a set of bronze race bushings for the Jag rearend. once I have them I can tack the lowers. Mock them up and make sure all my measurement are right then i can do a final weld before moving on to the upper shock mounts before dropping the car on the ground.. Hardest part of this whole rearend mod is finally done.
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rapidtransitric
LX/LC platform a body swap pioneer
Very nice.
Keith Mopar
Mopar Nut
Wow great work, can't wait to see that together
Got my jag race bushings for the lower arms today. Now I can intall the bushings set the correct length for the lowers tack. Mock up rearend check for fitment before i can do the final weld to the lower arms, then i can button up the rearend. So jazzed at the moment 
Tinkering at work, going home tonight to set out and tack weld the lowers. Also last night I chucked the bushing in the freezer, should be all shrunk and ready to drop in once the lowers are tacked 
Got started on the rearend mock up last night. lowers are on, bushings installed. Then I got the hubs cleaned up and ready. Tonight I'll install the axles and hubs, then mount the wheels and cycles the suspension while spinning the axles/wheels/ect looking for anything that might be an issue... I can see the light at the end of the diff swap tunnel...
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This is awesome!!!
Cley
Cley
dodgedartgt
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Just found your thread and read through the whole thing last night... wonderful job. I, too, have always wanted to do an IRS on an A-bdy (especially an early A-bdy, 63-66 Dart). Just before moving from FL back to OR after 13 years, I was offered and had to pass on a Jag IRS for $100. (Charlotte County, if anyone is interested, contact me.)
I wasn't aware of the three different mounting angles of the carrier, I also thought all of them were Dana 44, thanks for the heads up.
I'm making the assumption, and please confirm, the the design is of an "equal length control arm" configuration? If so, had you considered making the uppers slightly shorter than the lowers in order to have some rear caster? Also, I think by using the different carrier housings, one could build in positive or negative caster while maintaining the correct pinion angle.
Your design and engineering looks very well thought out. The one possible concern I have is whether the forward torque arms (strut rods?) will sufficiently counter the nose up tendency of the carrier during hard acceleration... (which I'm sure you would NEVER do with a tiny whippled 5.9 Magnum! LOL) As always, there are many ways to skin a cat. As I was reading through the build, I was envisioning a true torque arm, like in a Gen3 or Gen4 Camaro, and a panhard bar to the bottom of the carrier to counter side to side movement.
I'd like to hear your (or anyone else's) thoughts on these ideas.
I'm subscribed, can't wait to see the finished product. You are getting close to being under it's own power. However, I really hate finding truly exciting threads like this one, before they are completed. It's like having to wait for the final chapters to be written. SO much better being able to read all the way to the end! LOL
Mike(y) B
SO grateful to be back in OR after WAY too long!
I wasn't aware of the three different mounting angles of the carrier, I also thought all of them were Dana 44, thanks for the heads up.
I'm making the assumption, and please confirm, the the design is of an "equal length control arm" configuration? If so, had you considered making the uppers slightly shorter than the lowers in order to have some rear caster? Also, I think by using the different carrier housings, one could build in positive or negative caster while maintaining the correct pinion angle.
Your design and engineering looks very well thought out. The one possible concern I have is whether the forward torque arms (strut rods?) will sufficiently counter the nose up tendency of the carrier during hard acceleration... (which I'm sure you would NEVER do with a tiny whippled 5.9 Magnum! LOL) As always, there are many ways to skin a cat. As I was reading through the build, I was envisioning a true torque arm, like in a Gen3 or Gen4 Camaro, and a panhard bar to the bottom of the carrier to counter side to side movement.
I'd like to hear your (or anyone else's) thoughts on these ideas.
I'm subscribed, can't wait to see the finished product. You are getting close to being under it's own power. However, I really hate finding truly exciting threads like this one, before they are completed. It's like having to wait for the final chapters to be written. SO much better being able to read all the way to the end! LOL
Mike(y) B
SO grateful to be back in OR after WAY too long!
The upper, Do you mean the Axles? There is no upper suspension arms. Changing the axle length would not effect caster only camber.
The Caster was set using the jag factory angle from the "cage" all I did was adapt it to fit the car without the cage. That's why when welding the upper crossmember mount in I had to roll it back a few deg's = .5" roll to match there design but still have my axles center.
As to the question of camber there is no need the Jag rearend has this option built into the design. It's adjusted at the base of the axle where it meets the disc and caliper. There are a series of spacer that can be removed or added in order to get the +/- camber you desire.
Yes the forward torque arms are pretty heavy duty and are a solid to frame mount (bushing isolated at Diff mount ) but is also adjustable in order to have correct pinion angle (expected with bushings a 3* flex) these arms are long and set to account for upward torque roll as well as the upper mount. That mount I decided was better off copying jags fore and aft setup unlike the hot rodders of the 80-90's side to side style mount. This also helps with the side to side motion. Now I still have a few more bits I have to build to finish this. I have to get the lowers mocked up so I can build the lower strut arms, rear rods??, and coil over mounts. All will effect the limit in which the rear end will move under load.
I knew going into this that I wasn't as smart as the designers of the suspension so I only adapted there design to fit my application, I've only made two changes. 1. was remove the "cage" 2. Was narrow the track 4". So finger crossed
All have same rear suspension, heavier than my car, and handle much better
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dodgedartgt
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Oops... Yes, I did mean camber, typed caster by accident. And yes, I also meant the half shafts, which are, in effect, the "upper arms".
Yes the forward torque arms are pretty heavy duty and are a solid to frame mount (bushing isolated at Diff mount ) but is also adjustable in order to have correct pinion angle (expected with bushings a 3* flex) these arms are long and set to account for upward torque roll as well as the upper mount. That mount I decided was better off copying jags fore and aft setup unlike the hot rodders of the 80-90's side to side style mount. This also helps with the side to side motion. Now I still have a few more bits I have to build to finish this. I have to get the lowers mocked up so I can build the lower strut arms, rear rods??, and coil over mounts. All will effect the limit in which the rear end will move under load.
I knew going into this that I wasn't as smart as the designers of the suspension so I only adapted there design to fit my application, I've only made two changes. 1. was remove the "cage" 2. Was narrow the track 4". So finger crossed
Didn't realize there are lower strut arms (rods?) yet to go. I did know you still have to make the upper shock mounts. Anyhow, it is still a fantastic job. Keep going. Faster, faster...
Mike(y) B
SO grateful to be back in OR after WAY too long!
dodgedartgt
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I know you had showed your boy's livery and color choices for the car. It would be kinda cool to paint it in the Group 44 colors. They were some fantastic cars and competitors.
Mike(y) B
SO grateful to be back in OR after WAY too long!
Mike(y) B
SO grateful to be back in OR after WAY too long!
I want to keep the livery much the same as the Plymouths campaigned in Europe in the 60's but change up the color because I don't want it confused with or as clone. And I figured his pick was spot on!
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
What year to year is that extension housing from if i might ask? I am looking at swapping in a 42RH, but want to keep the mechanical speedometer.Didn't get anything done last night, I crapped out and sat on the couch with the wife and kid...
I did get the bottle filled though.... A full bottle is a happy bottle..
View attachment 1715061896
Also was able to order a new tail housing for the 46RE that will allow me to run both the speed sensor and the speedo cable on a later model 46re...
This will allow me to run both the stock speedo gauge and also all the elc plugin's need for the computer and tuning
View attachment 1715061903
As long as you stay RH you'll be fine. It's when they went to RE that they had 2 options ( cable drive or Elc )
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
What tunnel mods did you end up doing? I scoured your thread. Didnt see any info on that.
Page 4 n 5
It wasn't as bad as everyone makes it out to be. Hardest part was taking the leap and cutting the crossmember/trans mount
Well had a stroke or odd/bad luck this weekend. I assembled the passenger side lower arm with axle to check my measurements Before I finish weld the lowers and thank god I did. As I compressed and moved the suspension to check tire and wheel fitment and bind and all. I noticed the top of the wheel falling inward. Way to much camber!?! So I grabbed my driver side lower and double checked then triple check all my measurements then I got under the car and triple checked everything... I couldn't explain the problem, something was wrong... Then it hit me I never check what I took for granted... So I grabbed my stock axles and measured then from center to center 16 1/8" then I grabbed the new axles 14 7/8" (should be 14 1/8") and my heart sank... they're 1/4 too short.. ugh
-Now for the cool bit, I have yet to finish weld the lowers. I can easily pull them apart and make the adjustment need to make it all work. I can fudge the wheel fitment with a 1/4" wider spacer for now and in the future run a deeper offset. no biggie! As for the suspension I have a ton of room, nothing hits binds or interferes with movement action or cycling of the anything... limited on free time due to the busy work schedule this month, and kids birthday weekend after next, but will make a good effort to remedy the situation and have a good mock-up soon.
-Now for the cool bit, I have yet to finish weld the lowers. I can easily pull them apart and make the adjustment need to make it all work. I can fudge the wheel fitment with a 1/4" wider spacer for now and in the future run a deeper offset. no biggie! As for the suspension I have a ton of room, nothing hits binds or interferes with movement action or cycling of the anything... limited on free time due to the busy work schedule this month, and kids birthday weekend after next, but will make a good effort to remedy the situation and have a good mock-up soon.
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Got an Email from Dakota Digital today. They sent me a rendering of the gauge placement in the pod.
I asked for a stock'ish look. Black face with White lighting, Red needles but I wanted a tach included.
Basically this but all round and inset in the cluster frame.
I asked for a stock'ish look. Black face with White lighting, Red needles but I wanted a tach included.
Basically this but all round and inset in the cluster frame.
So I have been playing with these lower arms a bit now and finally got them set where I like them and can adjust camber +/- to my liking.
I've fixed the length issue and have shimmed the axles and at the moment I'm looking at -1* camber (track worthy) I also jumped online last night and ordered more shims so I can take it to 0* or + if needed. I'm happy with this setup and will be moving forward from here. Tomorrow I will do the final weld of the lowers, I'll also get everything set up to do the upper coil over mounts, start the lower strut rods, and I'm still on the fence about the rear rods.
Here are some pic of where I'm currently at.
This is before the shims added, it was at -2.5* to -3* camber
This is with shims added, I was able to take it to 0* or neutral camber which is perfect for street application which is wear I think I'll set the car.
After seeing the out come from the passenger side I figured I should test fit the drivers. I was off a bit about 1* so I ordered some shims last night so I can get both sides equal and set. Hoping to have this damn thing sitting on it own rear suspension soon. Getting tired of looking at it in the air, I would like to roll it out and clean my garage soon...
I've fixed the length issue and have shimmed the axles and at the moment I'm looking at -1* camber (track worthy) I also jumped online last night and ordered more shims so I can take it to 0* or + if needed. I'm happy with this setup and will be moving forward from here. Tomorrow I will do the final weld of the lowers, I'll also get everything set up to do the upper coil over mounts, start the lower strut rods, and I'm still on the fence about the rear rods.
Here are some pic of where I'm currently at.
This is before the shims added, it was at -2.5* to -3* camber
This is with shims added, I was able to take it to 0* or neutral camber which is perfect for street application which is wear I think I'll set the car.
After seeing the out come from the passenger side I figured I should test fit the drivers. I was off a bit about 1* so I ordered some shims last night so I can get both sides equal and set. Hoping to have this damn thing sitting on it own rear suspension soon. Getting tired of looking at it in the air, I would like to roll it out and clean my garage soon...
Lowers back out and ready for finish weld today!
Lowers finished welded and coated. Bushings installed and mounted! Starting the upper spring perches this week, flying to Atlanta Ga on Thursday be back Tuesday so hopefully able to fab up a mount by next weekend... Diff is mounted and in solid, still on the fence about the lower torque arms. Not sure how I'm going to make them workable.
Tossing around the idea of electronic assisted steering. I have found a few diy's and the needed parts for not as much as the going kits I think I may jump on this here in the near future now that the rearend is just about finished. Going to try and finish up the upper shock mount this weekend and coming week.
If you've dealt with or been looking into the elc assisted steering chime in I would like to know the 411
If you've dealt with or been looking into the elc assisted steering chime in I would like to know the 411
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