The box is on top of the fender so it would most likely be there or on the firewall. Does not appear that you have an ECM (box) in the images posted
An '80 model engine would have come with electronic ignition.....probably a lean burn computer type. Seeing as how it's now in a '65 model, it would probably now have points ignition like what a '65 would have, 70's style electronic ignition, or, an aftermarket setup. A detailed look at the distributor should tell the tale.
As requested, some carb and air cleaner pics. To me, a total newbie, there seem to be a LOT of plugged ports. I guess if this was stock on an ~'80-ish engine, it could have had a whole lot more EPA crap on it versus a '65? Air cleaner base is hacked up. Air filter fits but doesn't seem like the correct size. There's a manual choke and it operates properly, but the car doesn't seem to like it when I use it from stone cold. Seems to start better if I just pump the gas a couple of times. It likes about 15-20 seconds to warm up before going into gear. Let me have it....what kind of mess do I have here and what would you change to fix it? Car seems to run OK. Haven't had it long enough to check gas mileage. I also started a thread in the Slant 6 Engines sub forum about giving this thing a base line tune up.
Looks to me like an early model silenced air cleaner with a (probably) 1980 carb. Air cleaner housing was cut away to let it breathe better. Late carb is OK, albeit with extra vacuum ports you don't need and has been lightly modified to work with the early throttle rod. A pre-67 carb would fit and look a little cleaner. An early unsilenced air cleaner would look better and breathe better than the smaller diameter silenced version. An early valve cover would also fit the late motor and would make it look more correct. If the late motor runs good, no reason to replace it unless you just want to be totally correct.
Early silenced air cleaner Early unsilenced air cleaner. Note how much bigger the outside diameter is. It is basically the same air cleaner top used on some 361 and 383 four barrels, and hi-po 273's. Many early ones did not have the tube coming off the side.
The large air cleaner above can be used with a one barrel, two barrel or four barrel. You just need a base to fit the carb. Here's mine (which I had chromed) sitting on a one barrel carb. And now, with a four barrel.
Can you explain what you mean by correct base? You mean the hole is sized for a 1 bbl, 2bbl, 4bbl, etc, and the upper cover part is the same? I like the idea of the ribbed valve cover and a nicer air filter. Looks better but still stock.
Yes. Factory made one barrel and small-neck four barrel bases for that top. For two barrels and large-neck four barrels (pretty much all currently available four barrel carbs, as well as Holley two barrels) you just adapt your own. On my 56 Plymouth with an Edelbrock carb, I used the base of a 10 inch chrome air cleaner. Fits closely enough. Valve cover is an Offenhauser. First offered in 60-61 for slant sixes and still available new today. It's cast aluminum and seals to the head better than a stamped steel factory cover.
What is different about them? I've also seen some mention of the throttle kick down cable and other comments about mating the engine/trans. I'm a bit clueless about that stuff. How can I tell if it's bit done correctly?
Without pulling the engine or transmission, you can't tell. In '67 and earlier models, the slant 6 crankshaft and corresponding 904 torque converter used a small diameter mating hole. In '68 and later engines the hole in the end of the crankshaft was enlarged to the diameter all other Mopar engines used. If you mate a large diameter crank with a small diameter converter, you might not get the converter properly centered. That can cause balance/vibration problems resulting in broken flex plates and/or bushing/pump failures in the transmission. A conversion bushing is available for that situation, but, was it used or not? Many people don't know about it, or, the need for one.
I got four of the burned out dash bulbs changed out with LED's. We struggled with that because we could NOT get the dash out past the steering column. The dash is really bright now, but I somehow lost the oil light along the way. It was working before, and I've changed the bulb. We checked the multi pin connector, etc. I still need to change the hi-beam indicator bulb, too I want to change the bulb in the gear indicator. Will I absolutely need a steering wheel puller to get the wheel off? Also, the replacement Carter BBS carb and recurved distributor are here. As soon as the air cleaner shows up, I'll work on swapping those out and doing an ignition tune up as well. What should I know before yanking that crappy 1982 EPA carb and installing the Carter? The Carter was rebuilt and is supposed to be bolt-on ready, but if there's anything I should check, now's the time.
Shouldn't have to pull the steering wheel. Just loosen/remove the two bolts holding the column clamp to the lower dash. Maybe also loosen/remove the four (3?) bolts holding the firewall plate that the column goes through. Then you can drop the column enough to remove the instrument cluster. To replace, first bolt the column clamp to the lower dash, then after making sure the column is centered over the shaft, tighten the firewall plate. Wouldn't hurt to lay a cloth or something over the column to protect the paint while you're taking the cluster out.
I'd try to get the correct Carter automatic choke too. Getting it, and adjusting it correctly is key to having it run right, and not running too rich or too lean either cold or hot. Finding the correct air cleaner and attachment bail is getting a bit tougher to find also. Check your accelerator linkage to make sure it hasn't been modified for that later carb. You'll also probably need to source the rubber connector for that linkage unless it's coming with the carb. It's also possible that you may have to adapt the fuel inlet line and/or fitting to fit the replacement carb.
Did you remove the 3 bolts from the fire wall. Shouldn't be any pulling going on. Should just lower down to the seat
Well, this is the first time I'm seeing the suggestion to loosen the firewall plate! That probably would have made a HUGE difference! And I'm asking about removing the steering wheel to get to the bulb in the PRNDL indicator, on the steering column.
I have the bail, and the air cleaner should be here today. I don't *THINK* the linkage has been modified. Rubber connector? Can you show me a picture or a link? I also think the fuel line should fit. Now, the choke.... the choke mount on my manifold has been modified/brazed shut. I'll have to go with a manual of electric choke.
Here are some pics of how they rigged up the throttle linkage to work with the '82 carb, plus a pic of the Carter linkage. I'm doing some Googling, but what am I missing and what do I need?
Found this pic on the 'net. I see the rubber piece you mention; about 9 o'clock in the pic. Now...where to find one or is there something I can use in its place?
