1966 Dart GT-it begins

mike240

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Picked this up yesterday. Started more detailed inspection today. Be sure and tell me what is not factory correct. I plan to restore original with just a couple “drive ability” changes that can swapped back. One is front disc brakes (not sure about power yet) and considering power steering.

Don’t have the trunk key so pulled the seat and opened to find a new carpet set (but wrong color…black), original 2 barrel carb and intake, packaged and labeled engine bolts (have not inspected yet but the receipts from a 2015 rebuild indicate new ARP stuff. OEM CA air cleaner, a new double master cylinder etc.

Don’t know how many pic to a post so will add more from today.

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mike240

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More pics. Where these wheels available in 66? Should they have beauty rings?

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memike

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And congratulations on the Dart , watching this build for sure

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mike240

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That is all I have for now. The worst rust on the car are the inside front corners under the hood at the fenders. Nothing around the rear window. Did the windshield seal have a silver trim that went in those grooves? It is the only piece of glass I can find the Factory logo on so maybe was replaced and trashed the trim metal?

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toolmanmike

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mike240

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Thanks for wheel information. I did not think they were original or there would be a code on the fender tag.

Speaking of….did I decode that correctly? And mono paint would NOT have had the half white painted, so it must been added on the one repaint.

Would someone be able to decode and tell more of the Certicard please? I searched but didnt do well. Like what is QQ1?
 

mike240

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Did not find a broadcast sheet…yet. Unless i am wrong about the interior being re-done in the past and it was removed. Where are they commonly found on these Darts?

Thanks
 

toolmanmike

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Did not find a broadcast sheet…yet. Unless i am wrong about the interior being re-done in the past and it was removed. Where are they commonly found on these Darts?

Thanks
Under the rear seat bottom is a common place. They have been found on top of the glove compartment, under the carpet, behind the bucket seat bac covers and above the headliner.
 

413

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There are no wheel codes on any fender tag I can think of, optional or standard. Tires codes were only on 1967 and 1968 fender tags.

Those SBP rallies were 1970-1972. Some cars like a Duster Twister didn’t use any trim rings on them, possible the .demon sizzler also.
 

LO23M8B

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Picked this up yesterday. Started more detailed inspection today. Be sure and tell me what is not factory correct. I plan to restore original with just a couple “drive ability” changes that can swapped back. One is front disc brakes (not sure about power yet) and considering power steering.

Beautiful!
 

mike240

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Did not see a body and paint section. Hopefully this is followed and some advise given. I am guessing I should stay on this thread for the car’s entire journey.

i need to remove the fuel tank and depending on findings, may just purchase a new one. I know repro tanks and mats/pads exist. Hopefully all seals do too.

once the tank is out, I intend to take that area and some surrounding area to bare metal. Seal and paint then mask that area off later when I scrap and do the rest of the underbody.

what should I be putting on the bare metal? Epoxy primer? Brush on a zinc primer? I plan to just get custom matched OEM color in rattle can this small area.

Also (sorry for the bother) but can someone clarify from my pictures of the color. I thought it was “Bright Red” but the Certicard indicates QQ1. Maybe I misread the fender tag?

thanks in advance.
 

413

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Your car is QQ1 which is dark red

PP1 is bright red.

The bottom of the cars were not fully painted like the outside. You will see that when you remove the gas tank it will be mainly primer with some overspray from painting the body of the car. The overspray was more on the outer edges of the underside, and very little inboard of the frame rails where the gas tank is.

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mike240

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Thank you and to all that reply and give tech info.

Got tank out. More picks and discoveries.

Though still a solid rust free car, I missed a slight impact of the left rear. And very slight. Should have seen it before buying but would not have made a difference.

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mike240

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Looks worse than it feels. Could not really feel it when I inspected due to the slight Coke bottle flare the car has. But being more careful can see the inside difference to the “undercoat” and the two screws that were used to hold the corner bumper molding in place.

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