1966 Dart GT-it begins

mike240

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I think that the correct method for this issue is to locate a rear quarter (left/driver side) “half tail light can” and section it in. If anyone has a parts car and could part with it. A few spot welds on top and cut it out. Something like the arrows.

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toolmanmike

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mike240

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Thank all. I just did post in Wanted Section. Hopefully head to DV in a day or so with my cordless cut off wheel! Nice to have cooler weather and an air supply again yo get back on this project.
 

toolmanmike

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Thank all. I just did post in Wanted Section. Hopefully head to DV in a day or so with my cordless cut off wheel! Nice to have cooler weather and an air supply again yo get back on this project.
Yep that poor ol' quarter is pretty hammered. Hopefully someone can help you out.
 

toolmanmike

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I think that the correct method for this issue is to locate a rear quarter (left/driver side) “half tail light can” and section it in. If anyone has a parts car and could part with it. A few spot welds on top and cut it out. Something like the arrows.

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This might be of help to you. LH / 1963-66 DART REAR QUARTER-LOWER REAR SECTION

You might also want to check with Layson's. They are a sponsor here on the site and I believe they offer a discount.
 

mike240

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This might be of help to you. LH / 1963-66 DART REAR QUARTER-LOWER REAR SECTION

You might also want to check with Layson's. They are a sponsor here on the site and I believe they offer a discount.
That panel does not go up high enough. In fact I do have it. I reached out to Lee as you suggested. That section the same on 65 and 66 he said. His is 65. Just waiting in more info and how to get here. Thanks again.
 

mike240

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Thanks to Toolman’s referral, I received today, a new “corner” (via Lee Robinson-“Thanks”) and have begun the slicing and dicing.

Also welded on some 2”, 3/16 thick bar stock as jacking points over the damaged frame rails which appeared to have been used many times with small head bottle jacks and pushed in several spots along a 6” length on both sides.

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mike240

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A couple things did not arrive yet to do what I had planned so I opened up the engine a little. This is not the original since the block is cast 11/64. I do not know as the experts here, all the casting numbers etc to know what is what.

The engine started quick, idled fine and drove well after going the carb and fuel system before the tear down. All holes held good compression but #1 would fail a leak down. The plug would be wet…and since it had dual exhaust, that side would smoke.

I had a bunch of receipts when I bought it reference a rebuild in ‘15 indicating .30 over new pistons etc and one sleeve but no mention which cylinder. In the trunk was a 2 brl intake and carb but the motor had a 4 brl intake and Edelbrock on it. Here are pics. I didn’t remove the right side head today or the pan.

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mike240

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Some more. Does this fine line around the circumference of #1 indicate the sleeve? I know more tear down is needed.

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mike240

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So the question is, is .30 over max for a 273? And if that sleeve is tapered can it be re-sleeved and use the same pistons (new rings and bearings if the bottom end checks out?
 

toolmanmike

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toolmanmike

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So the question is, is .30 over max for a 273? And if that sleeve is tapered can it be re-sleeved and use the same pistons (new rings and bearings if the bottom end checks out?
I don't see a sleeve. Looks like the fire ring mark on the deck surface. The whole thing looks like new.
 

mike240

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Toolman

Yes Sir that pic is the 2 brl intake. I included it just because I had it on the bench.
 

mike240

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TM

Thats no matter I guess since I do not have a 66 block and heads to make it all OEM with the 2 brl again. If I can make good again without a lot of machining and money in it I will. Hoping the bottom end looks as good and can get by with bearings and a sleeve. I know pistons for these are sole source Egge and pricey. Need to find someone around here trustworthy to do that.
 

toolmanmike

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Which intake casting number would let me put the two brl and oem air cleaner on these heads?
You will need a 64-65 intake. I am not close to my books for a number. Maybe someone can step in with a number.
 

GGs66GT

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Nice score, your car came down the line about 2 weeks ahead of mine and delivered just 10 days before I picked up mine in Van Nuys ,CA at Valley Dodge . Slant 6 auto P/S A/C . It now has '73 Disc brakes 8 1/4" posi and 10' rear drums with 3.23 gears , anti sway bars front and rear and 15" rally wheels .
I repainted mine in ‘75 as seen in my avatar . I just repainted it again and am reassembling it now . Color change the yellow is now turquoise and the white is now Toyota bright white .
Now I have to redo the interior seats to match.

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GGs66GT

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Part of the reason for the color change is I’ve been on a Turquoise kick the last few years and when the body shop asked what the yellow was I said it was a custom blend and that would cost more to match . So I went to the paint store and found a fleet color .
The sad thing is now that it’s painted I realized the yellow was close enough to John Deer yellow, Doooooh ! And that’s a fleet color and cheep !

I could’ve had yellow and not have to change the seat cover’s…. Dang it .

Now I’m debating ‘64 GT rear seat cover with silver piping on black or light blue .
And hunting for ‘64-5 GT buckets that could be rebuilt so I can match the rear . Dang ‘66 buckets are narrower and you sit on them not in them like the earlier buckets.

Now back to you Mike
 
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