1966 slant six 170 timing mark

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moparkrazed

Moparkrazed
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Hey guys. Checking the timing on the slant six but I don't see a timing mark. Harmonic balancer could be too cruddy to see it without sanding around it. But is this half moon part of the timing mark? I'm used to seeing a little slit on the harmonic balancer. I have the distributor pointed to #1 cylinder where the harmonic balancer is. Also should I have a bolt holding the harmonic balancer on?

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No. That's just where the balancer was balanced at the factory. The mark on the balancer is a small ding hash mark on the outside edge of the pulley grooves.
 
No. That's just where the balancer was balanced at the factory. The mark on the balancer is a small ding hash mark on the outside edge of the pulley grooves.
Thanks man. I'll clean that thing off and see what I can find. I was looking for a timing mark/slit in the top of the balancer but couldn't find it to save my life. Should there be a bolt in it going into the crank? I didn't feel one.
 
Thanks man. I'll clean that thing off and see what I can find. I was looking for a timing mark/slit in the top of the balancer but couldn't find it to save my life. Should there be a bolt in it going into the crank? I didn't feel one.
It's there. It might be really light. Also, when you get the mark on zero on #1 tdc, the distributor rotor should point to "about" the 5 o'clock position as long as it's been installed correctly.
 
Thanks man. I'll clean that thing off and see what I can find. I was looking for a timing mark/slit in the top of the balancer but couldn't find it to save my life. Should there be a bolt in it going into the crank? I didn't feel one.
Nine times out of ten, Chrysler didn't use crank bolts on slant sixes. A few had them, but the vast majority did not. However, all the cranks are drilled and tapped, so you can clean the threads out and add a bolt. Makes it easier to turn the engine. 3/4" x 16 by about 2" with a thick flat washer should do it. Blue locktite and torque to about 60 LB FT.
 
It's there. It might be really light. Also, when you get the mark on zero on #1 tdc, the distributor rotor should point to "about" the 5 o'clock position as long as it's been installed correctly.
Ok cool. It's installed correctly. It was running great before I replaced the brake lines. Now it just spins over without trying to crank. I know I'm getting fire to the plugs and have gas in the carb. Thinking it has something to do with timing.
 
Nine times out of ten, Chrysler didn't use crank bolts on slant sixes. A few had them, but the vast majority did not. However, all the cranks are drilled and tapped, so you can clean the threads out and add a bolt. Makes it easier to turn the engine. 3/4" x 16 by about 2" with a thick flat washer should do it. Blue locktite and torque to about 60 LB FT.
Sweet. I could have sworn my dart had one in high school. I remember my uncle using beating the balancer on then using the bolt to snug on the motor.
 
Sweet. I could have sworn my dart had one in high school. I remember my uncle using beating the balancer on then using the bolt to snug on the motor.
It may well have had one. Who knows?
 
Nine times out of ten, Chrysler didn't use crank bolts on slant sixes. A few had them, but the vast majority did not. However, all the cranks are drilled and tapped, so you can clean the threads out and add a bolt. Makes it easier to turn the engine. 3/4" x 16 by about 2" with a thick flat washer should do it. Blue locktite and torque to about 60 LB FT.

I have been told that truck slant engines got the balancer bolt, others maybe not so much. I have two truck slants, both have the bolt. The only suggestion I'd add if you decide you want one, it get that bolt and washer in grade 8. I used a grade 5 in one case and even with a thick grade 5 washer, I dished the washer pretty bad cranking it down. The grade 8 washer will take all you can give it and still be laughing.
 
I have been told that truck slant engines got the balancer bolt, others maybe not so much. I have two truck slants, both have the bolt. The only suggestion I'd add if you decide you want one, it get that bolt and washer in grade 8. I used a grade 5 in one case and even with a thick grade 5 washer, I dished the washer pretty bad cranking it down. The grade 8 washer will take all you can give it and still be laughing.
That makes sense as the truck engines would probably be pullin and haulin stuff.
 
I have been told that truck slant engines got the balancer bolt, others maybe not so much. I have two truck slants, both have the bolt. The only suggestion I'd add if you decide you want one, it get that bolt and washer in grade 8. I used a grade 5 in one case and even with a thick grade 5 washer, I dished the washer pretty bad cranking it down. The grade 8 washer will take all you can give it and still be laughing.
Thanks for the info. I'd prefer to have one so I'll probably opt to put one in there. I'd this the timing mark I'm looking for? Top lip closest to the motor? Not sure if pic uploaded I keep getting an error message
 
No pic showing. I can get you a shot of mine tonight if you need it.
 
Thanks for the info. I'd prefer to have one so I'll probably opt to put one in there. I'd this the timing mark I'm looking for? Top lip closest to the motor? Not sure if pic uploaded I keep getting an error message
No pic showing. I can get you a shot of mine tonight if you need it.
That would work. I still can't attach the photo for some reason. Thanks man
 
Here's the mark on my balancer. I painted it white so it would stand out well.

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Thanks man. I'll need to do that to mine. I got to the timing gears and there was so much stuff on it I couldn't find thr timing marks. After a while of cleaning I could make out the outline so u dabbed some white paint on it. It looks like it's in time (cousnt get them to line up perfectly because I'm jumping the starter with a screwdriver). But the distributor isn't anywhere close. I was running before I replaced all of the brake lines and now nothing. Possible the nylon teeth jumped inside thr motor and stuck on thst time? I still can't post pics from my phone. I'll try to edit the post soon to show pics
 
Thanks man. I'll need to do that to mine. I got to the timing gears and there was so much stuff on it I couldn't find thr timing marks. After a while of cleaning I could make out the outline so u dabbed some white paint on it. It looks like it's in time (cousnt get them to line up perfectly because I'm jumping the starter with a screwdriver). But the distributor isn't anywhere close. I was running before I replaced all of the brake lines and now nothing. Possible the nylon teeth jumped inside thr motor and stuck on thst time? I still can't post pics from my phone. I'll try to edit the post soon to show pics

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It's in time. It is correct.
 
Even with the distributor pointed away from #1? I thought when the distributor was pointed at 1 with timing points lining up it was in time then?
Yes. As it sits now, it's timed on #6. If you turn the crank ONE full revolution, then it will be timed on #1. It is correct.
 
Yes. As it sits now, it's timed on #6. If you turn the crank ONE full revolution, then it will be timed on #1. It is correct.
Ok cool. This thing has me stumped. Getting fire in and out of the distributor, pit a little gas innthe carb and it's not even trying to fire. I juat need to get it running good enough to take it to the dmv and show its a running/stopping car so I can start the process of getting the car in my name. I'm sure when the dmv stuff is done everything will fall in place like it's supposed to haha. Thanks as always for the help rusty.
 
Ok cool. This thing has me stumped. Getting fire in and out of the distributor, pit a little gas innthe carb and it's not even trying to fire. I juat need to get it running good enough to take it to the dmv and show its a running/stopping car so I can start the process of getting the car in my name. I'm sure when the dmv stuff is done everything will fall in place like it's supposed to haha. Thanks as always for the help rusty.
You bet. Have you checked fire at the PLUG?
 
Yes sir. Pulled that out and my daughter shocked me because she started cranking before I laid the spark plug down.. she thought it was funny haha.
I've no doubt it was. lol What did the spark look like? Was it yellow and dingy or blue? Also, what distributor? Points or electronic?
 
I've no doubt it was. lol What did the spark look like? Was it yellow and dingy or blue? Also, what distributor? Points or electronic?
Haha I started laughing at her. She's 7 and enjoying the process. She's already claimed the car. That one was yellow but I've put in a new coil and need to look at that one to see what color it is. It's a points distributor and I've replaced the points and condensor. I gapped them at 17 or 20, whichever was the mid way spec ( think it was 20 going off memory.
 
Haha I started laughing at her. She's 7 and enjoying the process. She's already claimed the car. That one was yellow but I've put in a new coil and need to look at that one to see what color it is. It's a points distributor and I've replaced the points and condensor. I gapped them at 17 or 20, whichever was the mid way spec ( think it was 20 going off memory.
Yup, .017 to .023 is correct. Did you check with a dwell meter? I always do. They can slip when you make the final tighten.
 
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