1967 273 cam suggestions

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OK mine doesn't but fair enough beware
did you look up what th trojan is? or is it just norton flipping out becaaue nobody else has that file on their PC :)

i'd suggest its because its been there for 15 years and is not https its just http i.e no security cypher
you will get a NOT secure error in chrome and that is to be expected because all sites are https today.. its just an old site and youare not submitting any card no. or details so no real issue

and the zip file contains an old version of the microsoft Visual basic runtime files which were current 15 years ago

i.e risks but the age of both the software and the website will make some browsers baulk

I'm on a work laptop i work for a robust organisation with a shedload of security and have just visisted and had no such issue
..BUT as with all stuff on the net i guess there is always some risk

Dave
 
Honestly..... why so shouty... :) its a relevant suggestion and so is yours probably....

effective makes it way more complicated, how is a man to know what the difference is between actual and atmospheric pressure at the inlet valve at a specific rpm. Or for that matter the resiatance seen at the exhaust valve.. you can work it out for pumps, its easier to fit something in the pump to measure the pressure variation inside and what you see in the inlet and outlet

on an engine aren't you getting into OEM engine design workshop type equipment and analysis with this argument... expensive probes stuck everywhere....

don't dispute its relevance but its a bit beyond building a motor on a stand in the garage

a motor with 10.5:1 static CR will allways have 10.5:1 static CR with a camshaft that is perfect for the job, or one that is totally innapropriate

perfect cam for the job will be ballpark 8-9 DCR
inappropriate will be 5:1 or 12:1 DCR outside the realms of sanity and the motor will be a slug or a hand grenade

There is a place for DCR, as stated its a tool...

stock exhaust and 318 heads on a 273 doesn't indciate an urge or necessity to find out about Effective CR. The man wants a cam that makes his motor a bit better... he's not designing a turbo injected 1 litre for a PHEV

Dave
 
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Honestly..... why so shouty... :) its a relevenat suggestion and so i yours probably....

effective makes it way more complicated, how is a man to know what the difference is between actual and atmospheric pressure at the inlet valve at a specific rpm. Or for that matter the resiatance seen at the exhaust valve.. you can work it out for pumps, its easier to fit something in the pump to measure the pressure variation inside and what you see in the inlet and outlet

on an engine aren't you getting into OEM engine design workshop type equipment and analysis with this argument... expensive probes stuck everywhere....

don't dispute its relevance but its a bit beyond building a motor on a stand in the garage

a motor with 10.5:1 static CR will allways have 10.5:1 static CR with a camshaft that is perfect for the job, or one that is totally innapropriate

perfect cam for the job will be ballpark 8-9 DCR
inappropriate will be 5:1 or 12:1 DCR outside the realms of sanity and the motor will be a slug or a hand grenade

There is a place for DCR, as stated its a tool...

stock exhaust and 318 heads on a 273 doesn't indciate an urge or necessity to find out about Effective CR. The man wants a cam that makes his motor a bit better... he's not designing a turbo injected 1 litre for a PHEV

Dave

If you can do simple math you can calculate effective compression ratio. It’s not hard.
 
Ok i'll go digging and get schooled, i my return at some point with a resounding agreement...but a little DCR is good for the soul as well..
 
OP did say one key thing
"stock convertor";
From which I can also infer stock rear gears, which are likely 2.76s..
Therefore, like @Toolman said, the cylinder pressure could be way in the basement, Plus the big Airgap on this little combo, is IMO a totally bad idea. The Ag is a great intake, but way too much for any 273. So all in all it's a bad IMO combo, if not just an unknown one.
A compression test is paramount to figuring this out.
But it gets worse;
The stock convertor and the 2.76s (if I guessed rights) conspire to make this a poor runner, with any cam at all that has a later closing intake angle than stock.

As it stands, with the information given, the stock 273 cam is already the right cam. With a true 9.0 Scr, (closed chamber heads and a total cylinder volume of 70cc) the Wallace predicts a pressure around 158psi, with the Hydraulic 273cam (sorry, I do not have the specs for the solid). This is pretty good.
But with the 318 open-chamber heads the total chamber goes to ~83cc, and the math indicates a compression ratio of just 7.7, which with the 48* Ica of the stock HFT 1969 cam, drops the Dcr into the basement at 6.8, and the pressure to ~129psi.
Going from 158 to 129, is a very serious loss of pressure, and so, with a bigger cam, is a recipe for serious disappointment.
For instance; a 262/268/110 cam might have an Ica of 57* which would drop the cylinder pressure to 120psi and the bottom-end is now into slanty territory, having a V/P of just 81, compared to the 9.0 stock cam at 114. That represents a loss in low-rpm performance of ~29%....... see what I mean?
Saddle that with 2.76 gears and a 2000 stall that is now just 1800 by way of the mushy V/P, and I can see the tears running deep.
if the 273 was mine:
the First thing I would do, is to swap out that large port /large plenum Airgap for a small-runner, small plenum intake. and if the heads are open-chambers, they gotta go.
Second would be a higher than "stock stall" convertor, and dual exhaust.
Third would be to install as much rear gear as I dare.
Fourth is a compression test to see where it's at.
Now; with the hi-stall and gears, cylinder pressure is not as critical as if the car had a clutch, so, now back to a true 9/1 Scr, I can entertain a later-closing intake, but if I install a cam, then I'm also getting rid of the 273 log exhaust manifolds, in favor of small-diameter tuned pipes, aka headers ...
That is how I would do it.

Notes;
All numbers quoted are for the 68 up HFT. The Solid number may be a lil higher but it won't be by much.
In the calcs I used 57cc for the stock closed chamber heads, and 70cc for the open-chamber 318s.
I assumed a stock compression ratio of 9.0 for the 67-273.
The overlap on a 262/268/110 comes to about 44*. If you don't take advantage of that with headers, then you might as well not install the cam, because the 273 logs will kill that overlap, robbing you of a good amount of power thru-out the rev range.

To the OP, a cam makes power by moving the engines operating rpm ever higher. In so doing, it trades away low-rpm power. The percentage of loss/gain is very similar. If you gain 5% power at say 4500, yur gonna lose 5% off the bottom. To get the bottom back, you gotta increase the stall. Keep doing that and eventually the stall gets to be too high to be comfortable around town, and hiway fuel-economy takes a huge hit.
AND
If you run hi-way gears, it puts that ever-increasing peak-power, at ever-increasing Roadspeed, keeping your engine struggling for the vast majority of time.
Each cam size moves the power-peak up approximately 200 rpm.
your current cam peaks around 4400. which with 2.73s in First gear, is ~53mph. Going from your 240 degree cam to a 262 cam is 22* or about 3 cam sizes, or about 600rpm. With your new power-peak at 5000, this is now 60 mph. To get it back to 53 mph would take 3.09 rear gears. But you don't really want to wait that long do you? No! You want the power at stall rpm,
With the current 2000stall, this is not much power. With a later-closing intake , it will be even worse.
Lets say your engine makes 200 ftlbs at 2000 rpm, which would be 76hp.
Lets say you install a 2800 stall and your engine is up to 220ftlbs; this is now 117hp. From 79hp to 117hp is 40hp, which is a much bigger gain than the 4bbl is at these rpms, much bigger; and far more power than a bigger cam which, with no other changes, at these rpms, will LOOSE power .
You see how the stall works? It's a wonderful tool if you don't have a clutch.
 
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OP did say one key thing
"stock convertor";
From which I can also infer stock rear gears, which are likely 2.76s..
Therefore, like @Toolman said, the cylinder pressure could be way in the basement, Plus the big Airgap on this little combo, is IMO a totally bad idea. The Ag is a great intake, but way too much for any 273. So all in all it's a bad IMO combo, if not just an unknown one.
A compression test is paramount to figuring this out.
But it gets worse;
The stock convertor and the 2.76s (if I guessed rights) conspire to make this a poor runner, with any cam at all that has a later closing intake angle than stock.

As it stands, with the information given, the stock 273 cam is already the right cam. With a true 9.0 Scr, (closed chamber heads and a total cylinder volume of 70cc) the Wallace predicts a pressure around 158psi, with the Hydraulic 273cam (sorry, I do not have the specs for the solid). This is pretty good.
But with the 318 open-chamber heads the total chamber goes to ~83cc, and the math indicates a compression ratio of just 7.7, which with the 48* Ica of the stock HFT 1969 cam, drops the Dcr into the basement at 6.8, and the pressure to ~129psi.
Going from 158 to 129, is a very serious loss of pressure, and so, with a bigger cam, is a recipe for serious disappointment.
For instance; a 262/268/110 cam might have an Ica of 57* which would drop the cylinder pressure to 120psi and the bottom-end is now into slanty territory, having a V/P of just 81, compared to the 9.0 stock cam at 114. That represents a loss in low-rpm performance of ~29%....... see what I mean?
Saddle that with 2.76 gears and a 2000 stall that is now just 1800 by way of the mushy V/P, and I can see the tears running deep.
if the 273 was mine:
the First thing I would do, is to swap out that large port /large plenum Airgap for a small-runner, small plenum intake. and if the heads are open-chambers, they gotta go.
Second would be a higher than "stock stall" convertor, and dual exhaust.
Third would be to install as much rear gear as I dare.
Fourth is a compression test to see where it's at.
Now; with the hi-stall and gears, cylinder pressure is not as critical as if the car had a clutch, so, now back to a true 9/1 Scr, I can entertain a later-closing intake, but if I install a cam, then I'm also getting rid of the 273 log exhaust manifolds, in favor of small-diameter tuned pipes, aka headers ...
That is how I would do it.

Notes;
All numbers quoted are for the 68 up HFT. The Solid number may be a lil higher but it won't be by much.
In the calcs I used 57cc for the stock closed chamber heads, and 70cc for the open-chamber 318s.
I assumed a stock compression ratio of 9.0 for the 67-273.
The overlap on a 262/268/110 comes to about 44*. If you don't take advantage of that with headers, then you might as well not install the cam, because the 273 logs will kill that overlap, robbing you of a good amount of power thru-out the rev range.

To the OP, a cam makes power by moving the engines operating rpm ever higher. In so doing, it trades away low-rpm power. The percentage of loss/gain is very similar. If you gain 5% power at say 4500, yur gonna lose 5% off the bottom. To get the bottom back, you gotta increase the stall. Keep doing that and eventually the stall gets to be too high to be comfortable around town, and hiway fuel-economy takes a huge hit.
AND
If you run hi-way gears, it puts that ever-increasing peak-power, at ever-increasing Roadspeed, keeping your engine struggling for the vast majority of time.
Each cam size moves the power-peak up approximately 200 rpm.
your current cam peaks around 4400. which with 2.73s in First gear, is ~53mph. Going from your 240 degree cam to a 262 cam is 22* or about 3 cam sizes, or about 600rpm. With your new power-peak at 5000, this is now 60 mph. To get it back to 53 mph would take 3.09 rear gears. But you don't really want to wait that long do you? No! You want the power at stall rpm,
With the current 2000stall, this is not much power. With a later-closing intake , it will be even worse.
Lets say your engine makes 200 ftlbs at 2000 rpm, which would be 76hp.
Lets say you install a 2800 stall and your engine is up to 220ftlbs; this is now 117hp. From 79hp to 117hp is 40hp, which is a much bigger gain than the 4bbl is at these rpms, much bigger; and far more power than a bigger cam which, with no other changes, at these rpms, will LOOSE power .
You see how the stall works? It's a wonderful tool if you don't have a clutch.
My guess the OP is looking for a cam to go with what he's got not to redesign his driveline.
But I could be wrong, I get what your saying but don't get this Doomsday Apocalypse of low cr and mild cams, tons of people have done it and enjoyed the results is it ideal no but sometimes you got to work with what you got, there's been at least 3 guy's here put a 280 ish cam in a low cr 2bbl 273 long block one with 2x4 tunnel ram and been happy with the results.
318willrun puts cams in low cr 318 all the time and gains with track results but you say it won't work yes cr stall gears are important but unfortunately are the least likely things people will and or can afford to improve, intake cam exhaust is what most are gonna go for and shown to work.
 
Garrett, Post #37.

The variable duration solids were a family of sol lifter cams, starting with the 270s. 282s, 294s, 306s. There were two roller grinds also 288r & 3068r.
There was nothing special about these lobes other than the wide lash of 0.030". Many grinds had this amount [ or more ] lash, including Mopar cams. Comp Cams just did a good marketing job.
 
My guess the OP is looking for a cam to go with what he's got not to redesign his driveline.
But I could be wrong, I get what your saying but don't get this Doomsday Apocalypse of low cr and mild cams, tons of people have done it and enjoyed the results is it ideal no but sometimes you got to work with what you got, there's been at least 3 guy's here put a 280 ish cam in a low cr 2bbl 273 long block one with 2x4 tunnel ram and been happy with the results.
318willrun puts cams in low cr 318 all the time and gains with track results but you say it won't work yes cr stall gears are important but unfortunately are the least likely things people will and or can afford to improve, intake cam exhaust is what most are gonna go for and shown to work.
Yeah that's the first thing we did when we were kinds in school. Bought a cool car with a V8 and slapped a huge cam in it. lol
 
Yeah that's the first thing we did when we were kinds in school. Bought a cool car with a V8 and slapped a huge cam in it. lol
My cousin & I did that back in the day when he 1st put his dads old 340 4 gear duster back on the road after a decade of sitting, use a smokey low cr 318 short block with his dads ported 340 TA heads, 750 and fairly aggressive cam he had laying around it ran pretty strong imagine the 4 gear helped and going from 3.23 to 3.91 really woke it up, but apparently should've been a turd. Even ran the short block in his late model with the late models top end and kept up with cheating Chevy's :)

I did few other 360 head and intake and 340 cammed 318 worked fine not saying it's best way but it definitely was a improvement not a turd, think a lot of people's bad experiences comes from improper timing and carb setup.
 
My cousin & I did that back in the day when he 1st put his dads old 340 4 gear duster back on the road after a decade of sitting, use a smokey low cr 318 short block with his dads ported 340 TA heads, 750 and fairly aggressive cam he had laying around it ran pretty strong imagine the 4 gear helped and going from 3.23 to 3.91 really woke it up, but apparently should've been a turd. Even ran the short block in his late model with the late models top end and kept up with cheating Chevy's :)

I did few other 360 head and intake and 340 cammed 318 worked fine not saying it's best way but it definitely was a improvement not a turd, think a lot of people's bad experiences comes from improper timing and carb setup.
They would run really good with some RPM. Once we learned camshaft timing, we made low compression smog motors haul ***. Me and my best high school friend made lots of side money doin cam swaps and super tuning classmates cars in school. Those were fun times.
 
The OP is here but has a job that can’t look at his phone 24/7 and I am new to the game and don’t have a clue what the hell im doing so all your asshole nit pick comments are unnecessary I just want help not criticizing comments so sorry for my rant
 
The OP is here but has a job that can’t look at his phone 24/7 and I am new to the game and don’t have a clue what the hell im doing so all your asshole nit pick comments are unnecessary I just want help not criticizing comments so sorry for my rant
Well alrighty! Like the car says, COLOR ME GONE!
COLOR ME GONE.jpg
 
No suggestion on my part but do give Jim @ Racer Brown a call. Tell him exactly what you have and he can give you recommendations or custom grind one based on what you have. That’s what he did for my 66/235 HP 273
Your hearts in the right place.

Only problem is he wants cheap and it's a stock piston motor.
 
Thank you for all you help I guess the car world in Canada isn’t the same world wide

i think it's just the same.

you asked for help and provided near zero pertinent information. which means we all had to guess at what you have, want, what your skill set is or what your budget is, or even what your expectations are. i mean besides being able to conjure what cam would meet all of that criteria.

so really, it wouldn't matter if you were on mars honestly.
 
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