1967 440 Barracuda

Big Block A body Tech

  1. Charlie Jourdain

    Charlie Jourdain Member

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    Just acquired a 1967 Barracuda coupe. Solid California car with no drive train. I have a 440 and 727 in the corner of my garage. How feasible is such a project? What do I have to look out for? Have a lead on a 8-3/4 out of a B-Body. Will this fit without extensive modification?
    Playing around with a few different ideas here including the RB, a small block (318, 340, 360) or a modern crate hemi. Seeking expert opinions and open minded.
     
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    • crawsfire

      crawsfire Well-Known Member

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      Pics?
      Not an expert opinion but the 440 will need exhaust manifolds (ebay) or headers (TTI or Schumacher), correct center dump pan with a dimple for the idler arm (440 source) , schumacher motor mounts, the 727 is no problem. Will have to cut a small square out of the LH motor perch to clear the oil pump.

      8 3/4" Housing widths, flange to flange

      A-BODY
      • '66-'72= 52 5/8”
        • BBP 7.25/8.25 = 51.5”
      B-BODY
      • '62-'63= 53 1/4" (And '64 Max Wedge)
      • '64 = 55 5/8" (Exc. Max Wedge)
      • '65-'67= 54 1/4"
      • '68-'70= 54 15/16"
      • '71-'74= 57 7/8"
      • '71-'73 wagon= 59 7/16"
      8 3/4" Rear end widths, drum-to-drum:

      A-BODY
      • '66-'72= 57 1/8” (or 57 13/16” for BBP axles and brakes)
        • BBP 8.25/7.25= 56 3/4”
      B-BODY
      • '62-'63= 58 1/2" (And '64 Max Wedge)
      • '64 = 60 7/8" (Exc.Max Wedge)
      • '65-'67= 59 1/2"
      • '68-'70= 60 1/8"
      • '71-'74= 63"
      • '71-'73 wagon= 64 3/8"
      Spring perch widths (center-to-center)

      A-BODY
      • '66-73= 43"
      B-BODY
      • '62-'70= 44"
      • '71-'74= 47.3"
      8 3/4" axle shaft lengths (measured from the tip of the splined end to the outside of the flange)

      A-BODY
      • '66-'72= 27 11/16"
      B-BODY
      • '65-'67= 28 7/8"
      • '68-'70= 29 3/16"
      • '71-'74= 30 5/8"
      • '71-'73 wagon= 31 21/64"
       
      Last edited: Nov 26, 2019
    • mvh

      mvh FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      I think finding an A-body 8-3/4 would simplify things. But there are a lot of 440 Barracudas around. I know one that looks basically stock, and one with a full tube front end. So there are options...
       
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      • Garrett Ellison

        Garrett Ellison Amateur driver on public roadway, do not imitate.. FABO Gold Member

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        It’s a whole different debate about small vs. big blocks in an A body. Personally if I had it and a big block lying around, I’d already be be neck deep into the swap and about to drown. This is what I consider the go to on these conversions. BigBlockDart.Com
         
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        • 69B-Cuda

          69B-Cuda Well-Known Member

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          RB in a barracuda, you will most likely need to change the heater motor (Napa has a smaller diameter and shorter one) and if you have power brakes, your booster may hit the valve cover in the driver side.
           
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          • AndyF

            AndyF Well-Known Member

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            Putting a big block in an A body car is an exercise in problem solving. If you like to do that sort of stuff then go for it. It helps to look at a few cars before you try it yourself since there are a lot of bad choices out there that people have made when building these cars. I'm in the final stages of my big block Duster project and it was a challenge. I've seen a lot of hack jobs so I knew some of the problems to avoid but I still struggled at times.
            DSC_4017 (Large).JPG
             
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            • Garrett Ellison

              Garrett Ellison Amateur driver on public roadway, do not imitate.. FABO Gold Member

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              ^^^The best advice I have read on that topic^^^ with a very good build to look at. I especially like the addition of the larger radiator support.
               
            • thesiren74

              thesiren74 Well-Known Member

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              I put a 413 in my duster and I'll never go back to a small block, i mean just look at how bad ass a big block looks!!
               
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              • thesiren74

                thesiren74 Well-Known Member

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                20191101_193655.jpg
                 
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                • Garrett Ellison

                  Garrett Ellison Amateur driver on public roadway, do not imitate.. FABO Gold Member

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                  And the torque of a black hole, too!
                   
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                  • Jim Lusk

                    Jim Lusk Well-Known Member

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                    No problem with the blower motor. Manifolds are a TIGHT fit, but will work. My son's Dart and my '67 Barracuda...
                    MVC-019S.JPG MVC-020S.JPG 20190720_102650.jpg
                     
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                    • 69B-Cuda

                      69B-Cuda Well-Known Member

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                      Jim, is that a B or an RB? It also depends on valve covers, I tried some aluminum ones but they would not fit, my stamped steel are a bit shorter and fit fine though.
                       
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                      • AndyF

                        AndyF Well-Known Member

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                        Knowing what I know now I'd never do a street driver BB A body without putting in the aftermarket core support. It allows you to run a B body radiator with a shroud and a clutch fan. It does take some skilled labor since the factory core support has to be cut out and replaced but it solves a bunch of problems that people have with these cars.
                         
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                        • Jim Lusk

                          Jim Lusk Well-Known Member

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                          I've seen larger radiators put in without changing the core support. While not ideal, the car did work and didn't overheat. I haven't decided which radiator that I'm going to run in mine, but I do have a '65 C-body 413 radiator that is practically a bolt-in (same width, but taller). I ran it in my old '67 Dart hardtop until the core sprang a leak. I may go aftermarket, but will likely use electric fans either way.

                          Both my Barracuda and my son's Dart have 440s with factory valve covers.
                           
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                          • mcodecuda

                            mcodecuda Senior Member

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                            I was able to run a Mopar Performance clutch fan, 3 core 22” radiator and stock fan shroud in my M code ‘cuda. It was so tight that I had to put a piece of cardboard against the radiator fins in order to install the clutch fan.
                             
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                            • famous bob

                              famous bob mopar misfit

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                              NEED TO ARCHIVE THIS , or whatever , make sure it can be found easily .
                               
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                              • thesiren74

                                thesiren74 Well-Known Member

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                                26" champion 2 core radiator and a jaguar clutch fan never gets hot and drove this thing almost 1,000 miles round trip only issue broke an exhuast hanger average speed was 65 mph at 3grand.
                                 
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                                • famous bob

                                  famous bob mopar misfit

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                                  I agree, but I have a stock 340 form. S radiator support , just redrilled 4 holes , not cut out for the width of a 28x19 crossflow, with a clutch fan , and highly reworked shroud--------comes apart in the middle like a gm pick up.
                                  The tanks are still behind the support. Drove it yesterday first time since putting the clutch fan back on , ran 193-203 --clutch is a bitch to get studs/bolts in and tightened.
                                  I might go to an 18" fan this summer if needed, have a 17" alum. on it now. IMG_0469 (3).JPG
                                  I did start w/ an alum. shroud from Summit , but it has been reworked about 5 times for diff configurations while experimenting w/ all kinds or fans.
                                  It is actually shorter than this now , to get the blades 1/2 in and 1/2 out .
                                  The small tube hanging off the shroud was for air ducts running to the no. 1 and 2 header tubes ,trying to cool them , the raised port heads have them very close to the valve covers , not on there now.
                                  I had to do the cardboard trick to. I even chucked the clutch up in my laythe and cut about .060 off the fins, surprising how uneven they were .

                                  Any opinions on cutting the support out so air will hit the tanks ??
                                   
                                  Last edited: Nov 27, 2019
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                                  • TheGrateRonzini

                                    TheGrateRonzini Well-Known Member

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                                    I’m using Andy F’s motor plate, USCT rad support, TTI’s and a dana60. It’s not uncommon for people to use BBody 8 3/4. Even uncut. Not what I would do, but it can be done. I have to use the modified blower motor. The MP covers are too close. I also have manual brakes with the offset M/C. The USCT support has little sliders that move in to the size rad you pick. For now I have an electric water pump from PRP and an HHR electric fan. I had to beat in the corner of my pan to clear QA1 K, but that’s a different story 08B6AD32-FBF2-42A1-9C35-EE8FD5B9196F.jpeg 99361AC4-9E79-4C38-9D45-64E597BAD1AF.jpeg
                                     
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                                    • Garrett Ellison

                                      Garrett Ellison Amateur driver on public roadway, do not imitate.. FABO Gold Member

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                                      That motor plate is worlds better than elephant ears, no contest. To satisfy my own personal kinks with a big block a body, blower motor clearance wouldn’t be a concern. I would want the heater control delete plates and the heater delete right hand cowl vent box. Im still hoping someone finds a pile of those in a warehouse.
                                       
                                    • famous bob

                                      famous bob mopar misfit

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                                      Agree on the motor plate. Don't use raised port heads on a r/b , "no room" for a heater blower motor of any length . Off set mastercyl plate a must, I had to mill the lower rib off to get the cover of the drivers side anyway .
                                      UNDER THE DASH HOTROD HEATER WORKS PRETTY GOOD.
                                       
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                                      • famous bob

                                        famous bob mopar misfit

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                                        IMG_0474 (1).JPG
                                         
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                                        • SLOPAR72

                                          SLOPAR72 Well-Known Member

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                                          I am using a RB block with stock type Valvecovers and it cleared no problem. I am sure it will vary car to car however here is a pic of my end result....

                                          JW

                                          Image1907997190.jpg
                                           
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                                          • SLOPAR72

                                            SLOPAR72 Well-Known Member

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                                            That side is tight in regards to the MC. My setup is unique to most however with hydroboost it clears no problem....

                                            JW

                                            Image1902195370.jpg
                                             
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                                            • SLOPAR72

                                              SLOPAR72 Well-Known Member

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                                              AndyF said it best. A bunch of problem solving. Certainly attainable with even minimal mechanical skills but IMO my 2 post lift has been the game changer doing this. At my age in my mindset without the lift I would have zero interest in this type of undertaking but I do all things mechanical in a place of business full of equipment on a daily basis so my zeal is lost for working on cars now.

                                              If you have the drivetrain and it's a good known piece, sure why not....

                                              JW
                                               
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