1967 Dart 270

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Wiring harness bulkhead modified for 4 speed backup light switch and yes in the correct location.

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I'm at this exact step in my 68 GTS 340 4 speed conversion. Were you able to release the metal plugs for the purple and white wires from the black plastic plug, and then can you stick the same metal plugs directly into the bulkhead? I think I also saw somewhere that you added the dash reverse light. Did you have an official measurement for locating it? Thanks.
 
I'm at this exact step in my 68 GTS 340 4 speed conversion. Were you able to release the metal plugs for the purple and white wires from the black plastic plug, and then can you stick the same metal plugs directly into the bulkhead? I think I also saw somewhere that you added the dash reverse light. Did you have an official measurement for locating it? Thanks.
1) Yes, no problem releasing the pins.
2) I honestly can't recall; I'm fairly sure I got some measurements from someone and to some degree there is a narrow window in which it can go due to stuff in the dash and the angle cast into the bezel. If you like I can get you a rough measurement.

Helpful thread here with nice pics!

 
1) Yes, no problem releasing the pins.
2) I honestly can't recall; I'm fairly sure I got some measurements from someone and to some degree there is a narrow window in which it can go due to stuff in the dash and the angle cast into the bezel. If you like I can get you a rough measurement.

Helpful thread here with nice pics!

Thanks for the info and link. I'm enjoying watching your project.
 
Thanks for the info and link. I'm enjoying watching your project.
Thank you, in all honesty I didn't think it was going to ever be assembled again. It's rare a project that has been sitting as long as this one makes it out of it's dusty cocoon and moving by the individual that started it. Good thing I did loads of prep beforehand and labeled a bunch of stuff.
 
Windshield prep, marking out the locations for 1968+ stainless trim retaining clips.

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Trying my hand at steering wheel repair; Ground out the cracked sections and filled with PC-7 epoxy, let dry a few days, sanded down to profile and roughed up the surface, primed. Let it sit for a few days, light spot putty here and there and then spray with some gloss black enamel I have kicking about.

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Trying my hand at steering wheel repair; Ground out the cracked sections and filled with PC-7 epoxy, let dry a few days, sanded down to profile and roughed up the surface, primed. Let it sit for a few days, light spot putty here and there and then spray with some gloss black enamel I have kicking about.

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I need to do this one mine, but I'm a bit torn on how to do it. I have several pretty good cracks on mine, but when you look at the back it's not missing material at all. It more like the plastic has shrunk over time or the internal ring has somehow expanded. What I mean by that is the grooves for your fingers would be the right size if the material was just squeezed back together. So if I filled the cracks as they sat at the moment, I would have a couple of weird notches on the back of the wheel with longer grooves. Probably not a big deal since my car is far from original, but it does have my scratching my head a bit.
 
I need to do this one mine, but I'm a bit torn on how to do it. I have several pretty good cracks on mine, but when you look at the back it's not missing material at all. It more like the plastic has shrunk over time or the internal ring has somehow expanded. What I mean by that is the grooves for your fingers would be the right size if the material was just squeezed back together. So if I filled the cracks as they sat at the moment, I would have a couple of weird notches on the back of the wheel with longer grooves. Probably not a big deal since my car is far from original, but it does have my scratching my head a bit.
you think too much :rofl: :rofl:
 
I need to do this one mine, but I'm a bit torn on how to do it. I have several pretty good cracks on mine, but when you look at the back it's not missing material at all. It more like the plastic has shrunk over time or the internal ring has somehow expanded. What I mean by that is the grooves for your fingers would be the right size if the material was just squeezed back together. So if I filled the cracks as they sat at the moment, I would have a couple of weird notches on the back of the wheel with longer grooves. Probably not a big deal since my car is far from original, but it does have my scratching my head a bit.
I don't think it's enough to get excited about, I had some pretty good cracks and it feels normal to me.

This is to some degree just an academic exercise as I'm going to stitch a black leather cover on the wheel anyways and plan on using a smaller diameter aftermarket wheel in the future. Practice is good and will make nice sale item perhaps should the mood come over me.
 
I don't think it's enough to get excited about, I had some pretty good cracks and it feels normal to me.

This is to some degree just an academic exercise as I'm going to stitch a black leather cover on the wheel anyways and plan on using a smaller diameter aftermarket wheel in the future. Practice is good and will make nice sale item perhaps should the mood come over me.

I thought about doing a cover as well, which sort of solves both problems. I'd probably still want to fill the cracks first though. I could go with a smaller wheel now that I've got my power steering sorted out, but haven't really looked to see what's out there. I kind of like the classic style on it now as most aftermarket wheels I've seen just don't really blend in as nicely.
 

I thought about doing a cover as well, which sort of solves both problems. I'd probably still want to fill the cracks first though.

If you don't you get a minor indents in the cover, been there and done it.

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Body shop missed the staple holes on the top of the frame from the vinyl top so I dabbed JB-Weld on all of them, taped flat and let sit overnight. I removed the tape today and will let sit and out-gas and then will dab some clearcoat over the spots. Will be hidden by the windshield gasket and trim. Windshield itself is OEM Mopar and showing it's age with minor fogging at the bottom but going to run with it. Spent an hour or two carefully cleaning and buffing out overspray someone got on it in the distant past.

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Getting better at the stitching.
Hope to be installing windshield this weekend.

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I'm amused that the wheels were cracking back 40 years ago, have not gotten better with time.

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Silly perhaps but I have been looking for a 1980-1990's vintage stick on clock and finally the right one popped up on Ebay. You can see it just to the left of the steering column.

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Silly perhaps but I have been looking for a 1980-1990's vintage stick on clock and finally the right one popped up on Ebay. You can see it just to the left of the steering column.

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You know, I took for granted how handy it was to have a visible clock in a car until I started driving my Dart regularly. I have a real time clock module on my Raspberry Pi setup, but with the gauges full screen you can't see it. I got a little LCD display that I mounted above the steering column for some simple stuff like RPM and coolant temp and added a clock to it.

On the steering wheel cover, any chance you have templates for the material cutouts? I'd be interested in potentially trying my hand it and doing my wheel, but would be nice to have somewhere to start so it doesn't look too hacked together.
 
On the steering wheel cover, any chance you have templates for the material cutouts? I'd be interested in potentially trying my hand it and doing my wheel, but would be nice to have somewhere to start so it doesn't look too hacked together.

Even better: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BJPX9MV9?tag=fabo03-20

$16 you can't go wrong.

I was going to do my own (actually have the leather, needles and HD thread) but for that price not worth the effort.
 
Dang, that's perfect. Cheap enough I can mess up and try again, lol.
Exactly so. Not even sure how I came across them but wasted 3x as much at local fabric store buying leather and other supplies. Everything comes in the kit with ample amount of thread and needles.
 
Sandblasted and painted fender tag, wire wheeled underside and coated with POR-15, installed passenger side exhaust hanger mount, tied up speaker wiring, installed new rear seat belts, installed rear panel and installed rear seat and arm rests.



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Taking a step back as this has been on my mind for a bit, but is the passenger exhaust hanger normally bolted in by the factory or plug welded? I never really thought about it until I started hearing clunking on my car in some specific turns, but I don't have any passenger side hangers. So I go all the way from the header collector to the bumper and the only support the passenger side has is an H pipe in the middle to tie it to the driver's side and a hanger at the very back.

My driver's side pipe has a middle hanger that attaches to the brake line bracket, which I believe is the same or very similar to the one in your picture. Did you just bolt it in for easy or was that the factory way of doing it? Just curious since I'm thinking about adding one to my car now that I know they exist.
 
Taking a step back as this has been on my mind for a bit, but is the passenger exhaust hanger normally bolted in by the factory or plug welded? I never really thought about it until I started hearing clunking on my car in some specific turns, but I don't have any passenger side hangers. So I go all the way from the header collector to the bumper and the only support the passenger side has is an H pipe in the middle to tie it to the driver's side and a hanger at the very back.

My driver's side pipe has a middle hanger that attaches to the brake line bracket, which I believe is the same or very similar to the one in your picture. Did you just bolt it in for easy or was that the factory way of doing it? Just curious since I'm thinking about adding one to my car now that I know they exist.
Far as I can recall, the factory spot/plug welded the bracket in place and on my car there was at least 2 indents to indicate where the factory hanger would go on the passenger side.

The bolt in is one I got off Ebay for around $50. If you like, I can take a picture of what is on my GTX which is a factory dual exhaust car for sure.
 
Taking a step back as this has been on my mind for a bit, but is the passenger exhaust hanger normally bolted in by the factory or plug welded? I never really thought about it until I started hearing clunking on my car in some specific turns, but I don't have any passenger side hangers. So I go all the way from the header collector to the bumper and the only support the passenger side has is an H pipe in the middle to tie it to the driver's side and a hanger at the very back.

My driver's side pipe has a middle hanger that attaches to the brake line bracket, which I believe is the same or very similar to the one in your picture. Did you just bolt it in for easy or was that the factory way of doing it? Just curious since I'm thinking about adding one to my car now that I know they exist.
Doing some digging; here is a few pics I have found. At least on some applications there is an inner plate and then the outer hanger itself. So my comment about possible welding might just apply to B-body and not A-body. Hope this helps.

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Taking a step back as this has been on my mind for a bit, but is the passenger exhaust hanger normally bolted in by the factory or plug welded? I never really thought about it until I started hearing clunking on my car in some specific turns, but I don't have any passenger side hangers. So I go all the way from the header collector to the bumper and the only support the passenger side has is an H pipe in the middle to tie it to the driver's side and a hanger at the very back.

My driver's side pipe has a middle hanger that attaches to the brake line bracket, which I believe is the same or very similar to the one in your picture. Did you just bolt it in for easy or was that the factory way of doing it? Just curious since I'm thinking about adding one to my car now that I know they exist.
If looking for a "factory look" here is the ticket as far as I can discern


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