1967 Fastback Wiring Harness

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1badfish67

1badfish67

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Just got my car out of paint shop a few days ago. Interior is all removed right now and want to replace all wiring from front headlights to back before installing new interior.

Been seeing a few wiring update kits out there like C510 and American Auto Wire. They look identical in the pictures. C510 says theirs require some modification to the firewall and comes with template so I am thinking it may require enlarging the original hole??
I am trying to use as many factory replacement parts to keep as original in those aspects as possible and really prefer not to cut on the firewall.
This is not an all numbers matching car as it came originally with 273 Magnum/4spd, if I interpret the VIN and fender tag correctly but had 340 in it when I bought it. Everything else matches as far as I know. Also went back with original MM1 Turbine Bronze Metallic paint. Fenders, hood, grill, bumpers, front valance, doors, hood hinges and trunk lid were removed and painted separately.

Anyone out there know if anyone is making a factory equivalent replacement wiring system that doesn't require cutting/altering the original firewall hole?
Will post some before/after pics on the projects thread if anyone interested?
Thanks. Appreciate any help.
 
I have owned a 69 Barracuda for over 30 years. I have restored it twice. The wiring was in pretty good shape. But I wanted the wiring under the hood to look really nice, so I bought the appropriate harnesses for under the hood. I bought new, reproduction harnesses from Year One that were made by a company called M&H. The wiring is BEAUTIFUL. Exact replications of the originals in every way. Then I laid out all the rest of the wire harnesses and CAREFULLY inspected them to include using a multi meter to check continuity of all wires. I found only a few fairly minor problems. I fixed them with solder, heat shrink and/or or electrical tape, then I reused the harnesses. I did NOT use any of those crimp style connectors! I have never had a problem with it. If your wiring is usable, and you wanted to reuse some of it, you might be able to do the same level of inspecting and repair that I did. That being said, you could buy all new wiring, but it will cost you over a thousand dollars front to back. Yes, it would be a good safety step. However, I think that if people CAREFULLY inspect/repair their wiring, it can often be reused. Unless you are really good with automobile electrics, I would stay clear of the less expensive generic harnesses. Also, buy a good wiring diagram! Here is a link to the M&H harnesses at Year One. Yes, they are expensive; and Year one charges dearly for shipping, but if you get on their email list, they send out 20-25% off coupons all the time.
A-Body 1962-76 - Dart - Duster - Valiant -- Electrical / Harness / (yearone.com)
 
1badfish67 said:
Just got my car out of paint shop a few days ago. Interior is all removed right now and want to replace all wiring from front headlights to back before installing new interior.

Been seeing a few wiring update kits out there like C510 and American Auto Wire. They look identical in the pictures. C510 says theirs require some modification to the firewall and comes with template so I am thinking it may require enlarging the original hole??
I am trying to use as many factory replacement parts to keep as original in those aspects as possible and really prefer not to cut on the firewall.
This is not an all numbers matching car as it came originally with 273 Magnum/4spd, if I interpret the VIN and fender tag correctly but had 340 in it when I bought it. Everything else matches as far as I know. Also went back with original MM1 Turbine Bronze Metallic paint. Fenders, hood, grill, bumpers, front valance, doors, hood hinges and trunk lid were removed and painted separately.

Anyone out there know if anyone is making a factory equivalent replacement wiring system that doesn't require cutting/altering the original firewall hole?
Will post some before/after pics on the projects thread if anyone interested?
Thanks. Appreciate any help.
Click to expand...


1967 Barracuda Dash harness HU306A

You can poke around here if you need more:

A-Body 1962-76 - Dart - Duster - Valiant -- Electrical /
 
I think the assembly drawings will be helpful for your project.
One cause of electrical problems is improper routing and support. Its really common to move wires when working on a car and not put them back. (guilty as charged) Or in your case there's nothing to reference because everything was removed months ago. Without support and strain relief, eventually insulation gets cut or chafed, and connections get strained and weakened.

Assembly drawings:
My review of Faxon book, 1967-1969 Dodge & Plymouth Body & Electrical Assembly Manual

There's basically three harnesses:
Engine and Headlight.
Dash-Instrument Panel (orignal part number is on the harness by headlight/ high/low switch connector)
Body (goes to interior and tail lights and fuel sender)

Originally seperate was the fusible link (will be included with most repops), Console if present, A/C if present, reverse switch harness.

Example of practical application of assembly drawings for restoration.
Headlight grounds

69 barracuda wiring questions
 
harrisonm said:
I have owned a 69 Barracuda for over 30 years. I have restored it twice. The wiring was in pretty good shape. But I wanted the wiring under the hood to look really nice, so I bought the appropriate harnesses for under the hood. I bought new, reproduction harnesses from Year One that were made by a company called M&H. The wiring is BEAUTIFUL. Exact replications of the originals in every way. Then I laid out all the rest of the wire harnesses and CAREFULLY inspected them to include using a multi meter to check continuity of all wires. I found only a few fairly minor problems. I fixed them with solder, heat shrink and/or or electrical tape, then I reused the harnesses. I did NOT use any of those crimp style connectors! I have never had a problem with it. If your wiring is usable, and you wanted to reuse some of it, you might be able to do the same level of inspecting and repair that I did. That being said, you could buy all new wiring, but it will cost you over a thousand dollars front to back. Yes, it would be a good safety step. However, I think that if people CAREFULLY inspect/repair their wiring, it can often be reused. Unless you are really good with automobile electrics, I would stay clear of the less expensive generic harnesses. Also, buy a good wiring diagram! Here is a link to the M&H harnesses at Year One. Yes, they are expensive; and Year one charges dearly for shipping, but if you get on their email list, they send out 20-25% off coupons all the time.
A-Body 1962-76 - Dart - Duster - Valiant -- Electrical / Harness / (yearone.com)
Click to expand...

Thanks Harrisonm. My engine guy mentioned Year One to me the other day. I went on their site but couldn't exactly determine if their listed harnesses covered the mid-section of the car. The dashboard harness was crazy expensive as well. I have not inspected the wiring inside the car yet. Engine bay wiring was pretty ratty, so at minimum going to replace that section. Need to crawl under the dash and take a look as well as run(s) to the rear. Went to swap meet last weekend and found a guy that had original 1967 Plymouth service manual, riginal engine info cards and reprints of original operators manuals that I think would have been in he glove box. I have the guys card if anyone wants his information. This is all these folks do is automotive information manuals/documents.
 
My lesson learned was to buck up and buy all the M&H wiring harnesses from year one. If you wait for a sale you can get them cheaper. I wish I would have bought them all at once to begin with, rather than fighting electrical gremlins all the way.
 
Mattax said:
I think the assembly drawings will be helpful for your project.
One cause of electrical problems is improper routing and support. Its really common to move wires when working on a car and not put them back. (guilty as charged) Or in your case there's nothing to reference because everything was removed months ago. Without support and strain relief, eventually insulation gets cut or chafed, and connections get strained and weakened.

Assembly drawings:
My review of Faxon book, 1967-1969 Dodge & Plymouth Body & Electrical Assembly Manual

There's basically three harnesses:
Engine and Headlight.
Dash-Instrument Panel (orignal part number is on the harness by headlight/ high/low switch connector)
Body (goes to interior and tail lights and fuel sender)

Originally seperate was the fusible link (will be included with most repops), Console if present, A/C if present, reverse switch harness.

Example of practical application of assembly drawings for restoration.
Headlight grounds

69 barracuda wiring questions
Click to expand...

Mattax, these are great. Really appreciate all of you helping out.
 
Mike69cuda said:
My lesson learned was to buck up and buy all the M&H wiring harnesses from year one. If you wait for a sale you can get them cheaper. I wish I would have bought them all at once to begin with, rather than fighting electrical gremlins all the way.
Click to expand...

Did you have to do any firewall modifications in order to install the new bulkhead?
 
1badfish67 said:
Did you have to do any firewall modifications in order to install the new bulkhead?
Click to expand...

The M&H harnesses are oem, so it all fit really well. I put factory a/c in mine, so I had to buy the accessory harness for that. The one bad thing is that the base harness doesn’t have the wiper or transmission wiring, so you have to buy them all separately.

I bought the harness that had the electronic ignition and the 70 up regulator wiring built in. Worked out well.
 
Thanks for the info Mike. Planning on going to Mopars In The Park event in Tulsa Ok on November 6th at Osage Casino Tulsa Raceway Park. :steering:
Supposed to be all mopars as I understand. Racing, car show and swap meet. Lookin for aluminum heads and rpm airgap intake for the 340 as well.

 
Tail light harness starts at the left kick panel, covers everything to the rear except the dome light and license plate light. Headlight harness, engine, wiper/trans, and dash are all separate. If factory air there's more. Had to reuse the brown wire on the heater motor assy. Expensive from Year One , but it's plug and play. I like mine, worth every penny. My harness was so damn hacked up and cut into, it was probably in a bulldozer or Camaro at one time.
'69 Dart.
 
CRUZE 418 said:
Tail light harness starts at the left kick panel, covers everything to the rear except the dome light and license plate light. Headlight harness, engine, wiper/trans, and dash are all separate. If factory air there's more. Had to reuse the brown wire on the heater motor assy. Expensive from Year One , but it's plug and play. I like mine, worth every penny. My harness was so damn hacked up and cut into, it was probably in a bulldozer or Camaro at one time.
'69 Dart.
Click to expand...
I'm almost afraid to look under the dash of this car. The engine bay harness was a mess with cuts and splices everywhere. Sounds like the same after assembly line/shade tree electrician(s). I haven't looked under the dash of this car yet. Hopefully they didn't do the same under there! That dash harness from Year One is outrageous.
Someone had been racing this car prior to me buying it, though not the guy that sold it to me. They had cut holes in the inner fenders to run fender-well headers, used an air chisel to lengthen the clutch-rod hole in the firewall, cut on the K-Frame (I suspect they may have had a Big Block in it) and welded the door strikers. Well they tried to weld them. Looked like chkn droppings all around them. I cut the mess out and re-fabricated it as well as replaced the inner fenders and fixed the clutch rod hole in the firewall. Thanks for the advice.
I think I will give Year One a call and try to talk to someone about their kits/harnesses. I really don't want to have to go cutting on the firewall if I don't have to.
 
Wait for them to have a 25-30% sale. They have been running them a lot, but you have to know when. If your not on they're list, call and get on the notification list, quite often, they only last one day.
The dash harness really isn't that bad, definitely take the front seat/seats out, maybe drop the steering column and pull the instrument cluster back as needed. Just keep thinking that it's all going to be correct when your done. All of my harnesses were junk. The thing about the oem harness, plug and play. Smiles.
 
CRUZE 418 said:
Wait for them to have a 25-30% sale. They have been running them a lot, but you have to know when. If your not on they're list, call and get on the notification list, quite often, they only last one day.
The dash harness really isn't that bad, definitely take the front seat/seats out, maybe drop the steering column and pull the instrument cluster back as needed. Just keep thinking that it's all going to be correct when your done. All of my harnesses were junk. The thing about the oem harness, plug and play. Smiles.
Click to expand...
That's my thought. Car is stripped down to nothing left inside but dash and steering column/wheel. Even the carpet and underpaid is removed.

I'll get on Year Ones mailing list.
 
Service manual with wiring diagrams is in your future, if you don't already have one. It's very useful for a lot of other questions that come up from time to time.
 
CRUZE 418 said:
Service manual with wiring diagrams is in your future, if you don't already have one. It's very useful for a lot of other questions that come up from time to time.
Click to expand...

I actually picked up an original Plymouth 1967 model year service manual in excellent shape at a swap meet a couple of weeks ago along with year specific original engine spec cards and model year specific operators manual that would have came in the glove box. The operators manual was a re-print. The folks that were selling them had years specific manuals for all different kinds of year/make/models manuals and documentation.
 
I bought the M&H wiring from Year One and would definitely recommend you do too. All the harnesses installed and fit perfectly. Everything works!!! And no smoke LOL Money well spent
 
Second M&H , I put on in my 66 and its basically plug and play. Just my .02 cents worth. Check Year One when they put discounts on.

Tim
 
Be careful with elec schematics, there are some "out there" that are NOT factory but appear to be. Make sure you have the 67 Barracuda FSM supplement. It is the only factory schematic I found.
I have it in pdf and can email to you.
Theres only a couple suppliers of OEM style harness. For me to get a repop dash harness up in Canada, landed would be approx $1000. So I decided I could redo a harness I had. Tedious, but not $1000 lol
Good luck.
1badfish67 said:
I actually picked up an original Plymouth 1967 model year service manual in excellent shape at a swap meet a couple of weeks ago along with year specific original engine spec cards and model year specific operators manual that would have came in the glove box. The operators manual was a re-print. The folks that were selling them had years specific manuals for all different kinds of year/make/models manuals and documentation.
Click to expand...
 
4spdragtop said:
Be careful with elec schematics, there are some "out there" that are NOT factory but appear to be. Make sure you have the 67 Barracuda FSM supplement. It is the only factory schematic I found.
I have it in pdf and can email to you.
Theres only a couple suppliers of OEM style harness. For me to get a repop dash harness up in Canada, landed would be approx $1000. So I decided I could redo a harness I had. Tedious, but not $1000 lol
Good luck.
Click to expand...
PM sent.
 
Im slightly embarrassed to say I shelled out the dough for American Autowire classic. BUT, Its all there. Factory style connectors n all. instructions are really good. Quite a daunting experience that i am still in the battle with, but it should be good and with all the other blood that i have spilled with this, I feel i have done the car justice. With Classic Air, Crackedback headlight harness and Holley sniper, all the systems "on paper" have lined up. Im hoping to start engine soon. With the education I got I will probably not go so big next time, just a hot rod system and a couple spools of different colored wire. This system has what the wire goes to marked like every foot so pretty hard to mess it up. wish me luck please.
$0.02
 
clementine said:
Im slightly embarrassed to say I shelled out the dough for American Autowire classic. BUT, Its all there. Factory style connectors n all. instructions are really good. Quite a daunting experience that i am still in the battle with, but it should be good and with all the other blood that i have spilled with this, I feel i have done the car justice. With Classic Air, Crackedback headlight harness and Holley sniper, all the systems "on paper" have lined up. Im hoping to start engine soon. With the education I got I will probably not go so big next time, just a hot rod system and a couple spools of different colored wire. This system has what the wire goes to marked like every foot so pretty hard to mess it up. wish me luck please.
$0.02
Click to expand...
Clementine, good to know. Gonna check my dash harness first and see what shape it's in since most expensive and go from there.
Good to have options. Soldering the new connections?

Good luck
 
1badfish67 said:
Clementine, good to know. Gonna check my dash harness first and see what shape it's in since most expensive and go from there.
Good to have options. Soldering the new connections?

Good luck
Click to expand...
I used some solder and some just plain crimping. I did get that crimping tool that folds the factory style connectors, one crimp for the wire, one for the shielding.....pretty strong stuff. I think they have them on D-bag for cheap. I again, spent to much. I am learning how to do quality work on the cheap still.
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