1968 Barracuda with internal gauge régulator

Discussion in 'Electrical and Ignition' started by COUDA, May 29, 2018.

  1. COUDA

    COUDA Well-Known Member

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    Hello, I replace my defective internal gauge regulator with an external one.My problem is to connect it.Do you think it needs to connect: A with B and C with D or A with D and C with B?
    Thank you

    DSCF7535.jpg
     
  2. COUDA

    COUDA Well-Known Member

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  3. 67Dart273

    67Dart273 Well-Known Member

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    You can easily figure it out. Look at the traces on the PC board. Follow the gauge studs / traces

    1.....One gauge stud goes to a harness connector pin

    2.....A second stud goes to a second connector pin

    3....The third gauge stud has an insulator cap

    Get your service manual/ ohmeter, whatever. Figure out which of the two that go to the connector pins go where

    One of the two harness connector pins goes to switched 12V

    The other of the two harness connector pins goes to the sender

    The gauge stud with the cap is the "jumper" that feeds the VR OUTPUT out of the gauge and to the other two gauges.

    So your new regulator needs ground...............

    it needs switched 12V

    and the output needs to go to the stud on the cluster with the cap
     
  4. 1969383S

    1969383S FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    The terminal with the plastic cover near B and D is the regulated bus. Notice it does Not connect at all to the barrel connector and feeds one side of the oil and temp gauges. That regulator is not what I would use. The internal regulator in the fuel gauge must be bypassed to go this route. I would not proceed with what you are trying to do without some more research. Search this website harder and you will find the answer. Also get a good wiring diagram. I have posted one over and over.
     
    Last edited: May 29, 2018
  5. 1969383S

    1969383S FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    Hint, it should look something like this at some point.

    035D69B2-8ABF-46EB-9BD6-34B4F2AA548A.jpeg
     
  6. COUDA

    COUDA Well-Known Member

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    Yes but you do not have the same regulator as me. Mine is the same as the old one with just 2 studs. So if I connect it like the old one, it should work?No?
     
  7. 1969383S

    1969383S FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    The regulator you have chosen appears to be the thermal type used on non rally dashes. Will it work, maybe? Is it what you want, likely not. Remember the factory regulator is located in the fuel gauge on rally dashes. You have to deal with it first then use an alternate method to supply the 5v to all. I used replacement gauges and a electronic type regulator. Very pleased now!
     
    Last edited: May 29, 2018
  8. 1969383S

    1969383S FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    +12 is normally fed to the fuel gauge on the lower stud were you see a new red wire landed above. The internal regulator converts it and sends +5 to the buss that feeds all three. You have to remove that +12 feed from the barrell and re-route it directly to the regulator. You also have to defeat the internal regulator in the fuel gauge to make it work. I opted to replace them all with modern resto replacements in lieu of modifying the original fuel gauge to accomplish this.

    I also opted not to cut the factory barrell wire and just removed it from the Barrell and plugged into the blue feed wire to the new electronic regulator. If I ever decide to go back full original I can do so easily.

    Normally there is a capacitor that also plugs onto the lower fuel gauge stud and is fastened to where I put my new regulator. It can be omitted when going electronic.

    If you decide to bend the fuel gauge regulator arm to seemingly disable it, then connect the new +5 feed to the center terminal instead of where mine is connected. It has been done but not my recommendation. Remember the gauges are 50 years old and likely need to be replaced anyhow. How many times do you want to pull the dash or crawl under it?
     
    Last edited: May 29, 2018
  9. COUDA

    COUDA Well-Known Member

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    Thank you for all these explanations but I'm not very good in electricity. Can you trace the wires in the photo? DSCF7535.jpg
     
  10. famous bob

    famous bob mopar misfit

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    SO DID I, IT`S STILL SCREWY !
     
  11. COUDA

    COUDA Well-Known Member

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    .
    A and B are bolted on the same way so why did you put two wires to the regulator?
    Where do you connect C? 12V?

    a body only.jpeg
     
  12. 1969383S

    1969383S FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    No particular reason other than the instructions. I assume for voltage drop possibilty with the factory buss. Each red from the regulator is +5v.

    C is plugged into the factory +12v connector feed wire after removing It from the barrell with a heat shrink to keep it safe.

    The yellow is just for a know good ground connection after resto and new paint.

    If you try to bend the regulator arm in the factory fuel gauge then the red you did not mark on your last post would go to the center terminal on the original type fuel gauge. Like said I have new gauges that, IMO are superior to the originals. The new fuel gauge only has 2 posts like the oil and temp. Hence the center terminal is plugged to keep the dust out of the cluster. Pic from the front to show the difference.

    2FD04814-BF97-4E73-BA88-8B2AA480168C.jpeg
     
    Last edited: May 30, 2018
  13. 1969383S

    1969383S FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    Well that sux! I am very happy with fast gauge response and accurate to boot. Did you use the Charger Specialties gauge package? I assume you have good sensors as well!
     
  14. 1969383S

    1969383S FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    By the way, yes I can but defer the answers to keep you from doing something you really do not want to do. There are several if/ands or but’s to your question.
     
    Last edited: May 30, 2018
  15. COUDA

    COUDA Well-Known Member

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    Not useful now, I understood the connection.Thank you.
     
  16. COUDA

    COUDA Well-Known Member

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    Hello. I do not remember where connect this on my cluster?

    radio noise.jpg
     
  17. BillGrissom

    BillGrissom Well-Known Member

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    For others, it is easier to use an aftermarket adjustable regulator. Search "voltage limiter" w/ "Plymouth" on ebay. $30 to $55, the later being RTE. Many photos and links showing exactly how to wire to replace the thermal reg inside the fuel gage (until ~1967 clusters, to 1973 if Rallye cluster i.e. tachometer).
     
  18. 1969383S

    1969383S FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    Term D in your first photo from the first post.
     
    Last edited: Jun 8, 2018
  19. COUDA

    COUDA Well-Known Member

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    Ok thanks.
     
  20. COUDA

    COUDA Well-Known Member

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    Big problem. I followed your photo of cabling and the regulator warms itself enormously and all the gauges rise at the most?
     
  21. 1969383S

    1969383S FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    Well what did you actually do? Did you defeat the internal regulator in the fuel gauge?????

    Review posts 4,7 and 14!
     
    Last edited: Jun 9, 2018
  22. COUDA

    COUDA Well-Known Member

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    DSCF7537.JPG

    DSCF7538.JPG
     
  23. COUDA

    COUDA Well-Known Member

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    68 wiring

    68CLUSTER WIRING.JPG
     
  24. 1969383S

    1969383S FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    Did you disable the original regulator inside the fuel gauge? The lug is still there covered with the plastic screw on protector. You cannot just do what you are doing. My fuel gauge is new and does not have an internal regulator as the original did. I tried to tell you the correct way and not saying what you did will not work, but you have to undo what the factory did first.
     
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2018
  25. COUDA

    COUDA Well-Known Member

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    "Did you disable the original regulator inside the fuel gauge?" No,only small wire is cutting but I will disable.
    "The lug is still there covered with the plastic screw on protector."
    Yes but the lug with the plastic screw is for the gas gauge not the régulator?
     
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2018