1968 Dart Fusable Link?

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DragginSteel

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Pictured is a wiring diagram for a 68 Dart. I am putting together a car from couple different cars. I have already put the dash back in the car. I have power at the starter relay then at the plug that runs into the firewall. Nothing will power after that so I suspect the Fusable Link noted in the diagram is stopping power (I hope) There is no fuse prior to the plug on the firewall, unless it's buried in the wiring harness. I can't see anything where the plug comes out under the dash. Does anyone know what side of the firewall this fuse should be, if under the dash, where would it be, what would it look like (an inline fuse)? Any help would be appreciated.
 
View attachment 1715306479
Pictured is a wiring diagram for a 68 Dart. I am putting together a car from couple different cars. I have already put the dash back in the car. I have power at the starter relay then at the plug that runs into the firewall. Nothing will power after that so I suspect the Fusable Link noted in the diagram is stopping power (I hope) There is no fuse prior to the plug on the firewall, unless it's buried in the wiring harness. I can't see anything where the plug comes out under the dash. Does anyone know what side of the firewall this fuse should be, if under the dash, where would it be, what would it look like (an inline fuse)? Any help would be appreciated.
here is picture of fusible link - main power goes through it, idea is the wire melts if power draw is too high. One goes from the wire connection block to the starter relay. hope that helps
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fusible links are outside in the engine bay. Keeps fire away from the human beans. Your link would have the rubber flag on it like pictured above. 68 model would have a single fusible link right outside the bulkhead connector with a harness connector inline. Some call it service disconnect. Disables all electrical inside the cabin.
 
That's a general schematic that I drew.
Schematics show how things work.
Find a '68 Dart circuit diagram. I *think* Ply & Dodge are prtty much the same for '68. Do not use '67.
Wiring diagrams show what wire goes in which cavity in the connectors and the actual wire colors.
Some have more detail than others.
If you need a harness diagram that shows position and mounting etc, as far as I know you'll have to sketch your own.
 
This is an original fusible link from a '67 Plymouth Barracuda.
An original '68 will also be dark blue (indicating 16 gage wire) but the other details such connector, flag color, and position may be different.
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I was thinking about performing this bulk connector bypass in the following link: Improved Wiring for older Mopars

I think it is a great idea however, I wish the author included a wiring diagram, for us once in a while mechanics. In addition, I am wondering if one of those new style of inline fuses could be used instead of a fusible link. If not, maybe another member could provide me with a link to a proper fusible link. I have a 64 Dart GT Slant 6.
 
Fusible link is a slow blow devise. Typical fuses blow instantly at the first sign of over their rating. You can buy fusible links at local stores.
 
I was thinking about performing this bulk connector bypass in the following link: Improved Wiring for older Mopars

I think it is a great idea however, I wish the author included a wiring diagram, for us once in a while mechanics. In addition, I am wondering if one of those new style of inline fuses could be used instead of a fusible link. If not, maybe another member could provide me with a link to a proper fusible link. I have a 64 Dart GT Slant 6.
That's adding a couple of wires in parallel, one for alt output, one on the battery feed.
Personally I would use ring terminals instead of splicing into the original harness unless you have some experience in making good splices and connections.

Probably best to start a new thread since the OP is trying to troubleshoot.
 
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Oops, sorry I did not mean to "Rain in on the Parade" I thought the information was helpful for the subject matter.
 
This is an original fusible link from a '67 Plymouth Barracuda.
An original '68 will also be dark blue (indicating 16 gage wire) but the other details such connector, flag color, and position may be different.View attachment 1715306518
View attachment 1715306517

I do have that "wire" right on a separate plug right before it plugs into the firewall. It just doesn't have the tag on it.
 
The wire coming through the firewall (via the plug) should go to the Ammeter on the gauge panel. Does anyone know does it attach directly to the back of ammeter or is it a plug in the back of the speedometer panel. I remember plugging something into the panel but not attaching a wire directly to a bolt.

I thank everyone one for their comments
 
The wire coming through the firewall (via the plug) should go to the Ammeter on the gauge panel. Does anyone know does it attach directly to the back of ammeter or is it a plug in the back of the speedometer panel. I remember plugging something into the panel but not attaching a wire directly to a bolt.

I thank everyone one for their comments
The ones I've seen have always been ring terminals on the wire, and attach to one of the studs on the ammeter. Sometimes the battery connection is marked + or Red.
The alternator/main splice wire attaches the same way on the other stud.
 
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Could be as simple as one of the terminals at the bulkhead backed out of the connector a little.
Simple, but very bad.
If the battery is hooked up, back probe the inside terminal for battery voltage.
 
This is from the '68 Plymouth shop manual showing the back of a Valiant instrument panel. Ammeter connections are the studs directly above the headlight switch.
If you can see them, maybe with a mirror, great.
If not, I'd check for battery voltage at the ignition switch and the alternator output wire connection at the bulkhead. If those are hot, then the circuit through the ammeter to the mainsplice is connected. That's not a guarentee the connections are really good, but just that they are connected.
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The ones I've seen have always been ring terminals on the wire, and attach to one of the studs on the ammeter. Sometimes the battery connection is marked + or Red.
The alternator/main splice wire attaches the same way on the other stud.

I have no power at the ignition switch or fuse block. That gives me a start. Thank you very much.
 
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