mopowers
Well-Known Member
How do you apply the sealant between the body and the gasket? I'm installing the back glass in the '66 this weekend too, but was planning on doing it the other way - gasket installed on the body, then installing the glass.
1968 Dodge Dart GT Sleeping Beauty?
- Thread starter hcallaway
- Start date
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harrisonm
Well-Known Member
No wonder I couldn't find any clamps at the store the other day. You have them all. LOL
Seriously, though, It looks like a good job. You should be proud of yourself. Headliners are something that most people will farm out and not even attempt. I have done a few headliners, and they came out OK. Steam works well for the few stubborn minor wrinkles you might get.
hcallaway
Well-Known Member
I am not an expert but I have read and watched as many videos as I could find. Every car is different and so is the way people have made it work.
The general rule for Darts looks like on the rear glass: ((Gasket on the glass and then work the rubber on to the pinch weld.)) The very first step is to use a caulk gun to put sealant in the gasket channel and then put the glass into the same channel. Use the rope method or another technique and pull the gasket (glass is in the gasket) into place from the inside. (Glass and the gasket are laying on the outside of the rear pinch weld.) After the glsss is installed you can peal/lift the rubber on the outside and in my case I have the little pump with a small spout that attaches to add the additional sealant between the rubber and the metal body.
Clear as mud???
hcallaway
Well-Known Member
New trim clips installed. I had to add three more holes where they had been welded up it or the heads of the trim screws broke off. Several people have talked about installing them after the glass is installed.
mygasser
Well-Known Member
lol. that reminded me of when i put some metalflake in the dash vents of a mate's car. went all over him, he said everything that went through his clothes washer for weeks had flake on it. i thought it was funny, him? not so much......
hcallaway
Well-Known Member
The Eagle has landed. It took about 5 minutes or less with the rope method on the rear glass. It took an hour to install the clips which had zero effect on the rubber gasket.
The gasket from them and the clips were perfect. There is not a locking strip on the rear but on the front there is a flap that folds in after the windshield is installed.
The gasket from them and the clips were perfect. There is not a locking strip on the rear but on the front there is a flap that folds in after the windshield is installed.
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hcallaway
Well-Known Member
Paracord worked great. A little soapy water with the rope and it pulled perfectly even around the bottom corners. I did not use the sealant yet.
Seal on clean glass
Rope installed.
Sealant squeezed in and then a paint stick to push it in.
Seal on clean glass
Rope installed.
Sealant squeezed in and then a paint stick to push it in.
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hcallaway
Well-Known Member
Different size SS moulding trim clips.
No clear instructions with any kit that I could find.
I am starting to set up my front windshield and the clips are first.
After looking and searching the internet
I came across this post on the front window clips and why 4 of them are different. Usually they are black and the bulk of the other clips are green or orange.
Okay the knowledge I have about this relates to my 1970 dart. I just spoke with Tim at RT specialities last week about this very question. He said there are 4 clips that are different from the others these four clips, 2 on each side, go on the first two holes on the top of the frame next to the A Pillars.
Quote
Clips should not interfere with the glass installation. It would be difficult to install afterwards.
No clear instructions with any kit that I could find.
I am starting to set up my front windshield and the clips are first.
After looking and searching the internet
I came across this post on the front window clips and why 4 of them are different. Usually they are black and the bulk of the other clips are green or orange.
FJ5
Well-Known Member
Okay the knowledge I have about this relates to my 1970 dart. I just spoke with Tim at RT specialities last week about this very question. He said there are 4 clips that are different from the others these four clips, 2 on each side, go on the first two holes on the top of the frame next to the A Pillars.
Quote
Clips should not interfere with the glass installation. It would be difficult to install afterwards.
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hcallaway
Well-Known Member
Trial fit.
I cannot do anything else until I can spray the vents.
Sealant on the top of the gasket.
Cleaned and ready to go.
I cannot do anything else until I can spray the vents.
Sealant on the top of the gasket.
Cleaned and ready to go.
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hcallaway
Well-Known Member
Still had sag. I have ordered an after market reproduction hinge. Top right.
Had some dead time so I decided to replace the passenger door hinge pins and bushings. I used the standard Dorman $9.90 kit. Top hinge used 2 new brass bushings and the short pin. No drilling and slight effort to tap in the brass. Bottom hinge tougher to remove the bottom pin. And you have to just trust that you can drive the pin in as the replacement.. that would be the longer pin that is left.
Had some dead time so I decided to replace the passenger door hinge pins and bushings. I used the standard Dorman $9.90 kit. Top hinge used 2 new brass bushings and the short pin. No drilling and slight effort to tap in the brass. Bottom hinge tougher to remove the bottom pin. And you have to just trust that you can drive the pin in as the replacement.. that would be the longer pin that is left.
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hcallaway
Well-Known Member
I remove the bolts on the top and bottom hinges. as you can see, I used a fancy system to hold the door in place. I rocked the door past the fender to give me access. After it was over, it was pretty easy to reattach the door with one person.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000C5C98Y?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title#
Dorman 38382 Door Hinge Pin And Bushing Kit - 2 Pins And 4 Bushings Compatible with Select Chrysler / Dodge / Plymouth Models
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000C5C98Y?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title#
hcallaway
Well-Known Member
I was going a different direction today and as usual I came across a hidden issue in the trunk. A soft area.
hcallaway
Well-Known Member
Wire wheel brush, vacuum, blower, soap and water, vacuum. Trunk is close to being ready for paint.
Taillight areas cleaned up.
Taillight areas cleaned up.
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nice work
hcallaway
Well-Known Member
I was going to let the body shop drill and space the rear marker light and Dart letters. The marker lights require a 1 3/8” hole. I got a $9.00 step bit off Amazon. It is the best way to drill holes in sheet metal without having the bit wander. That light and the letters follow/center the crease or body line.
I made a template for the letters. It did not transfer perfectly, but it was pretty close.
Top of the tape is the center of the body line.
Notch was needed for an index cast into the marker.
I made a template for the letters. It did not transfer perfectly, but it was pretty close.
Top of the tape is the center of the body line.
Notch was needed for an index cast into the marker.
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mygasser
Well-Known Member
those step drills are great, i've got an assortment of different sizes. as you say ideal for the marker lights 
neil.
neil.
hcallaway
Well-Known Member
Interior rear painted window trim was a pain. I could not locate the screw holes. Last night I thought the old headliner should give me the position of the trim to the rear window and the location of the holes to the perforated teeth that grab the headliner. Once I found one the trim got me on point.
Also laying on the trunk is the package tray cover. Freight was close or more than the part. I had it in my office for over a year. Glad it was what I expected.
Rear package tray covered in rubber flashing. On top of that is a jute that goes between the tray and the rubber.
Also laying on the trunk is the package tray cover. Freight was close or more than the part. I had it in my office for over a year. Glad it was what I expected.
Rear package tray covered in rubber flashing. On top of that is a jute that goes between the tray and the rubber.
If they have the correct size these punch perfect factory looking holles
hcallaway
Well-Known Member
Worked on the window movements. Front side windows seemed very simple and just needed to be cleaned and new lithium grease added. Rear side windows are in my opinion very sophisticated. They were hanging up and would almost pop like they were jumping off the tracks. It ended up being the tracks at the top rear needing attention. Pretty smooth but I ran out of grease.
hcallaway
Well-Known Member
I hate debris stuck in non-accessible spots. I have always used a tube with a vacuum reach those areas.
The tube holds on the funnel and the suction holds the hose in place with little effort.
The tube holds on the funnel and the suction holds the hose in place with little effort.
I have done that myself, works better than you would think
hcallaway
Well-Known Member
I was distracted by another project this weekend while fooling with the Dart. The pontoon will have to come out of the Lake October or early November and come home. The old bunks had deteriorated and the carpet was old. After I am gone the next time will be the kids problem.
That's an impressive nest. Thought I'd share how I got rid of mine. First was physical removal of all I could reach, using gloves, mask, glasses, and long sleeves. Then I vacuumed what I could get at. Then one side at a time I made a cardboard template to fit the air door with a hole in that for the shop vac. Leaving the other air door closed I used cardboard to close off the cowl area except for a small hole at each end for a long nosed blower nozzle from the compressor. Turn on the shop vac and blow in the cowl with the nozzle. That got out a lot of unseen junk. Lather, rinse, and repeat for the other side. Last was once the car was road worthy but before finishing the interior was to take it out on the freeway with all windows open and glasses/mask on, then open the vent doors one at a time. There was still junk in there that only high speed airflow would get out. Cleaned up the interior and gave evertlything a dousing with Lyson and called it a day.
I really, really don't like mice.
hcallaway
Well-Known Member
Watching the paint travel via USPS from California to Virginia was painful. Over a week for delivery. With the freight they charged it should have been sent by UPS. The paint was exactly the same as the original interior parts.
hcallaway
Well-Known Member
Who ever said the front is easier than the rear glass, that was not my experience. As my son said, we could have done 10 rears in the same time. We started late on Monday evening. He was on call for the railroad and had to leave. I had him for 1 1/2 hours and then I carried on. Lighting was poor and I didn’t realize the top gasket had dislodged. I wasted several hours after I realized what I had done. Today the temperature was 90 and I could actually see what I was doing. The sun is your friend. Being able to see is just as important. Spray soap is also right up there to make it all work.
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