1. danan

    danan Member

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    I'm building a clone-ish 1968 SS barracuda. I scrounged up an original bellhousing (246-3236 casting number) but am unclear on which flywheel (diameter and teeth) and starter is used with it. Please advise. Thanks!
     
  2. danan

    danan Member

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    Well a 1968 direct drive hemi starter doesn't fit the bellhousing but a standard gear reduction starter drops in perfectly. So that's one question out of the way. I suspect (hope?) that a 130 tooth 8 bolt flywheel is correct for these cars. Does anyone know for sure?
     
  3. ns1rm21

    ns1rm21 Well-Known Member

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    I know what your doing and I respect it. I have a 68 Hemi Barracuda clone that I’m finishing up and it has a 4 speed.
    Originally in those cars they used 1967 B body factory scatter shields and they had TONS of problems with clutch forks, Z bars and pivot brackets working together. Do yourself a huge favor and just run stock 1968 A body 383 shifter components and clutch linkage. Then use 1970 130 tooth flywheel and 10.5 clutch setup and aluminum bell housing. I know it’s not 100% correct but you will thank me in the long run. A19FF071-270D-4C08-8C4D-7990D8DA3EEE.jpeg 8F7C068A-1540-4595-A986-E72F44747F92.jpeg AF69D545-90E8-4DA3-AEFA-F0CD5D57075E.jpeg 9D47263E-DF38-477F-A031-0A1EC8155E1C.jpeg
     
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    • ns1rm21

      ns1rm21 Well-Known Member

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      PS…..if you get a repop pivot bracket put it in a vice and give it a few light hits with a hammer before you install it. Mine broke while I was installing it and many other people had problems as well. See photo above.
       
    • davescuda

      davescuda FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      Pictures of the shifter set up if your looking to do the correct set up.

      A228ACAF-B53F-43CB-A5AD-29E2B2DB4E1B.jpeg

      5D3F9730-C754-4A5F-83D5-5A3AEC0A2D72.jpeg

      0E65E53C-D80F-495D-BAD0-1BC7B08576C7.jpeg

      8F3DB2BF-FF5F-4FC3-B16F-A541B230ECD4.jpeg

      2B00ADC4-DC1E-432C-A94E-477F050F0464.jpeg
       
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      • danan

        danan Member

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        Thank you for the reply and insight (insight based on experience is the best kind).

        In Schild's book he claims that the factory used 64-65 Race Hemi bellhousings. Is this another instance where the book isn't accurate?

        I'm not sure how the early units differ from the later ones, besides the markings and part numbers. Ironically, I spent a lot of time and no small amount of money finding a complete 64-5 bellhousing and inspection cover, and all the while I had a 1970 aluminum bellhousing/clutch fork/etc sitting on the shelf.

        Did you modify the pivot bracket per the factory drawing in order to keep it parallel with the frame mounted pivot? I will certainly check for poor weld penetration prior to installation. I'm glad your bracket fell apart upon installation, vice hammering down the track!

        I'll probably give the 'correct' set-up a go, and if I can't make it work I won't hesitate to swap in the aluminum bellhousing. I really appreciate your help and recommendations. Would you mind if I PMed you from time to time as I build this thing?
         
      • autoxcuda

        autoxcuda Well-Known Member

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        Not bad for moving on its own power for very first time.

         
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        • ns1rm21

          ns1rm21 Well-Known Member

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          PM me anytime!

          My notes say “A990 bell housing”, I’m not sure what year those are. I thought that was the WO and RO 1967 cars but I might be wrong.

          The big problem is there B Body Bell housing and the Z bar does not have a straight shot between the bell and the frame pivot.

          Another problem is they used a B body Z bar (why I don’t know) and the upper arm that the pedal rod attached to is too long so the pressure plate would go beyond center. The fix was to drill out the stud that the upper link goes on and move it down 1”.

          I use the TTI headers, again not 100% accurate but they fit very well (TTI used my Dart for the mock up) TTI has a Z bar that fits perfectly and let me tell you with a 2 1/8” header things get REAL tight down there.
           
        • danan

          danan Member

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          I have the TTI headers as well, but still need to order their modified Z bar. I received all the shifter linkage, handle, etc from Brewer's, but have yet to find a reverse lockout kit. That's been a tough one to locate!

          I was really fortunate to get a SS shifter bracket from Davescuda. It looks exactly like the pictures in Schild's book. Really nice piece. Thanks again!
           
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          • tribe_of_dan

            tribe_of_dan Well-Known Member

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            I’ve not been on here in a while. Here is my steel bell-housing for what it’s worth.

            85822783-4DD5-484D-AA23-9A282E20E54E.jpeg

            56C6A104-2D24-4037-BB93-9553AE69A484.jpeg

            5D394E49-7F34-4740-B9A0-605F3CF650D7.jpeg
             
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            • ns1rm21

              ns1rm21 Well-Known Member

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              Very, very nice!!
              Have you mocked up this combo in your car yet?
              Those bell housing are based on B body’s. This means that your Z bar will not line up between your B body bell housing and you A body car. E61A86C7-FE36-43DF-9E1E-A2BD27B4CEEE.jpeg B9BABD0D-3C89-4E70-BD56-5BEDBD22C9D5.jpeg 1CC94DE5-3B7D-4FE9-A56B-CFCDC043870B.jpeg
               
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              • tribe_of_dan

                tribe_of_dan Well-Known Member

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                Not yet. I bought the modified TTI Z-bar. What are these notes that you have? Originals?
                 
              • ns1rm21

                ns1rm21 Well-Known Member

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                …sorry, one more thing. That bell housing comes real close to the pinch weld between fire wall and floor pan. Keep an eye on it when installing your trans cross member.
                Keep us all posted, looks real good!
                 
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                • tribe_of_dan

                  tribe_of_dan Well-Known Member

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                  Will do. The car is out of my hands not and at a shop. I’m sure we’ll be going back and forth a little esp. if there are any fitment issues.
                   
                • ns1rm21

                  ns1rm21 Well-Known Member

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                  This are original notes from Bob Tarozzi when he was designing and building these cars. Here is Bob in my car at Spring Fling a few years back 2BF393FC-CC22-475E-9613-286A3FC77925.jpeg
                   
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                  • tribe_of_dan

                    tribe_of_dan Well-Known Member

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                    That is fantastic. If we run into any issues I’ll be sure to reach out. I’m not going for 100% perfect as far isn’t original but it’s going to be a fair bit closer than many I would say.
                     
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                    • RustyRatRod

                      RustyRatRod I was born on a Monday. Not last Monday. FABO Gold Member

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                      What an awesome spectacle!
                       
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                      • ns1rm21

                        ns1rm21 Well-Known Member

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                        Very good, anything I can do or if you have any question maybe I can help. Here is a picture of my two clones. Dart is auto with 8 3/4 and the Barracuda is a 4 speed and a Dana so I got things covered. 37E42219-E99C-4ED1-A12F-BF4C5FFDA1F1.jpeg
                         
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                        • tribe_of_dan

                          tribe_of_dan Well-Known Member

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                          This is amazing!
                           
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                          • danan

                            danan Member

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                            Tribe of Dan: I believe I have the same bellhousing/inspection cover as you. What flywheel are you using? It appears that a std 10.5" 130 tooth flywheel fits our bell housings. Is this correct?

                            Troy: thanks for the pictures of the mounting bracket drawings; those are very helpful because Schild's guide does not have the corrected ball stud height (book shows 3.04" from centerline of the mounting hole to centerline of the ball stud). Your drawing appears to have the 3.04" dimension lined out and 3.17" written below it.

                            Also: what a magnificent pair of cars! I love the license plates.
                             
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                            • tribe_of_dan

                              tribe_of_dan Well-Known Member

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                              I believe 130 is correct but I can’t prove it. I have the 130 based on Brewers advice.
                               
                            • ns1rm21

                              ns1rm21 Well-Known Member

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                              You should be able to look through the whole were the starter goes to see if the starter would engage. You could even install the starter and jump it and see if the starter engages.
                               
                            • HemiSSDart

                              HemiSSDart Dartus Interuptus

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                              Yes, 10-1/2" 8-bolt flywheel and regular starter or mini starter work just fine on the STEEL bellhousing. I am still looking for a STEEL inspection cover for my bellhousing. I am also still looking for the correct HD Hurst linkage, got everything else. My car was originally a 4-speed, but getting it going with an automatic first...
                               
                            • danan

                              danan Member

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                              Did Hurst sell the HD linkage over the counter? Do you have a picture of it?

                              I just have stock A-body shift rods and tabs.
                               
                            • HemiSSDart

                              HemiSSDart Dartus Interuptus

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                              They are on the trans picture above on post #5...
                               
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