1969 Barracuda 340 Formula S Restoration

RealWing

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Blasted and painted all the bumper brackets, license plate bracket etc and got the front bumper installed.
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RealWing

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Getting the fan shroud ready for cleanup & painting. 2785614 is the correct p/n for a 340 (also 273, 318 and 383) with AC
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RealWing

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In the process of restoring the front grill assemblies over the last few days. Got one finished and installed. More SEM trim black. After painting the egg crate, I sanded the front to duplicate the original finish.
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1969383S

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Grill grates, eyebrows and all are spot on! Nice work!!!

Not surprised at all!
 

RealWing

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Grill grates, eyebrows and all are spot on! Nice work!!!
Not surprised at all!
Thanks Gerald. All these finishing details seem to take a huge amount of time!!
Jim
Ps after recently passing 78 years of “experience”, I relucantly sold my big 2015 BMW K1600 GTL motorcycle ☹️☹️ And have ordered something a little more stable at slow speeds. Still going to have fun and travel the open road!! A 2022 Ca-Am Spyder RT Limited
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RealWing

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Forward and Back
Powered up the electrical sytem and checked to make sure everything worked. A couple of minor issues but all is good.
Next step was to fill cooling system and then prime the oil system before first start. Added glycol and checked 3 times to make sure no leaks. Had dinner and went back outside and glycol was runnig out from under tha garage door☹️☹️☹️☹️☹️
As near as I can tell it is leaking a bit from the bottom of the water pump gasket. Grrrr.
Everything will have to come off the front of the engine to fix it. No enthusiasm today. Just sat in the backyard watching the world go by!!

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RealWing

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Found the coolant leaks after removing all the parts. The cause was no sealant on the threads of 2 bolts. 2 that go into the water jacket!! The root cause was another case of stupidity!! All the other bolts that required sealant has sealant applied!! I think what happened was that I put the timing cover on first and temporarily bolted it in place without the water pump to ensure it was sealed. To install the WP, I removed all the bolts except these 2, because I didn't have to remove them to install the WP. Forgot to go back and pull them to install sealant!!! Oh well, just a few more hours of work. Also primed the oil system today with the help of my son to rotate the engine while priming.
Jim
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RealWing

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Haven't had time to get back on the Cuda for quite a while due to yard work etc and a bucket list trip to East Africa!!!
Fired the engine for the first time a couple of weeks ago. Just used a carb because I wanted to be sure it started right up to get the revs up and break in the cam.
Had some small leaks at one tranny fitting at the rad and some at the heater hose connections at the firewall. Did a search to see what others had done about leaks here since I've had problems with these fittings in the past. The consensus seems to be it is a combination of poor quality spring clamps (ie not strong enough) and the repro hoses are thinner than the originals. Thus not enough clamping force.
I saw one neat idea and that was to use some small gear clamps (along with the original style spring clamps) , paint them black and put heat shrink over part of the threaded section. I think it looks pretty good and you can't really tell they are there unless you look close.
I didn't see any nasty looking bits on the oil filter, so hopefully the cam broke in OK.
Now I can start the installation of the Holley Sniper and Hyperspark CD ignition.

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AAndrews

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Haven't had time to get back on the Cuda for quite a while due to yard work etc and a bucket list trip to East Africa!!!
Fired the engine for the first time a couple of weeks ago. Just used a carb because I wanted to be sure it started right up to get the revs up and break in the cam.
Had some small leaks at one tranny fitting at the rad and some at the heater hose connections at the firewall. Did a search to see what others had done about leaks here since I've had problems with these fittings in the past. The consensus seems to be it is a combination of poor quality spring clamps (ie not strong enough) and the repro hoses are thinner than the originals. Thus not enough clamping force.
I saw one neat idea and that was to use some small gear clamps (along with the original style spring clamps) , paint them black and put heat shrink over part of the threaded section. I think it looks pretty good and you can't really tell they are there unless you look close.
I didn't see any nasty looking bits on the oil filter, so hopefully the cam broke in OK.
Now I can start the installation of the Holley Sniper and Hyperspark CD ignition.

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Hi Jim,

No big deal, trials and tribulations of the restoration process we all go through!
Love the attention to detail.

Here's a suggestion for your hose clamp problem.
Use these , turn them upside down and put the corbin clamp next to it for asthetics. You will need a special tool to install them due to the clamping pressure.

These won't leak!


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