1969 Barracuda 340 Formula S Restoration

Members Restorations

  1. AAndrews

    AAndrews Supercuda

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    I'm very interested in the Sniper setup as well! I will be following your progress closely. Here's the intake I'm considering as I have it on a shelf in the garage. Really good performance with a 750 holly on the 340 I was using. I think the Sniper setup would adapt well and give me plenty of hood to air cleaner clearance as well.

    162586084742_1.jpg
     
  2. qkcuda

    qkcuda Well-Known Member

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    A half inch spacer with the larger hole size would make the throttle plates clear the stock manifold. I did that back in the day to run a larger carb.
     
  3. RealWing

    RealWing FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    Surprise - they were already soldered by M&H!!
     
  4. RealWing

    RealWing FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    The LD340 is a very good manifold to use. The centre divider is cut down which seems to be better for the Sniper. I'll have to keep my eye open for one of these.

    Adding a spacer on my stock manifold would work, but my hood clearance is very tight because I've got the stock hood insulation pad.
     
  5. AAndrews

    AAndrews Supercuda

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  6. AAndrews

    AAndrews Supercuda

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    Hey qkcuda, Realwing beat me to it! Hood clearance becomes a problem with a spacer although the Mancini drop base should fix that problem.
     
  7. AAndrews

    AAndrews Supercuda

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    Hey Realwing, do you have a pic of the sensors that go into the exhaust? I'm curious as how to install them.

    Thanks.
     
  8. RealWing

    RealWing FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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  9. AAndrews

    AAndrews Supercuda

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  10. qkcuda

    qkcuda Well-Known Member

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    Nothing a pair of tin snips can't cure LOL

    IMG_3985.JPG
     
  11. AAndrews

    AAndrews Supercuda

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  12. RealWing

    RealWing FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    All my packages of parts got delivered OK to the US - EXCEPT for my steering wheel!! It has apparently been stuck in a mail sorting centre in Chicago (USORDA) since March 17th. Seems like packages can get trapped here for weeks due to high volumes and slow processing. Just hope no one took a fancy to my steering wheel!!
     
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    • RealWing

      RealWing FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      Got my seatbelts back from Bill Edwards after restoration - complete with date coded labels. IMG_6483_1280x719.JPG
       
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      • RealWing

        RealWing FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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        Got a repro rear decklid trim panel from AMD. Looks very good, except the shade of the red seems a little too dark

        IMG_6484_1280x719.JPG IMG_6485_1280x719.JPG
         
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        • AAndrews

          AAndrews Supercuda

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          Just my opinion:

          I have one hanging on the wall of my garage that looks just like yours.. I'm willing to bet that the original one is just faded out with years of washing/waxing/ ultraviolet exposure etc.... Wait until you put it on with the taillights and you will see that the panel flows much better with the darker color.

          It is 50 years old after all!!

          Seatbelts look factory original!! Great work!!
           
          Last edited: Apr 4, 2019
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          • RealWing

            RealWing FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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            Probably right about being faded!!!
             
          • RealWing

            RealWing FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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            I pulled the alternator off the engine to check it before taking it to Dixie Restorations. Found it is completely the wrong one!!! It is a 1966 alternator 2098830 which is a standard 35 amp.
            I instead need a 46 amp 2098850 (preferably date coded in the latter half of 1968). If anyone has one, I'm interested!!!
            Jim
             
          • RealWing

            RealWing FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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            Stripped the engine this week. It is a numbers matching engine. It was last overhauled in 2009, so this was just a refresh. Only problem found was 2 cam lifters were not rotating and had a groove worn in them. Not concerned because I was going to change the cam anyway. It was a MP purple shaft and didnt have as much low end as I wanted for a street cruiser. Probably will get a Hughes cam.
            IMG_4633_1280x960.JPG IMG_6513_1280x719.JPG IMG_6521_1280x719.JPG IMG_6522_1280x719.JPG
             
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            • RealWing

              RealWing FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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              Got some parts back from S.F Restoration. Stephan does excellent work in my opinion!!
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              • mosleyme

                mosleyme Well-Known Member

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                • 4spdragtop

                  4spdragtop Well-Known Member

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                • RealWing

                  RealWing FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                  The correct factory finish is a dark black/brown zinc finish. You could try to duplicate by painting it with a Zinc Phosphate and then lightly fogging with a dark brown paint. I did this on my convertible and it turned out pretty good. Experiment on a piece of metal first.
                   
                  Last edited: Jul 28, 2019
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                  • RealWing

                    RealWing FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                    • RealWing

                      RealWing FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                      After I got the engine stripped, I cc'd the heads etc to get the compression ratio. Turned out to be only 8.7:1 so with the purple shaft Mopar cam that explains why it didn't have much low end torque. I've corresponded with Hughes about one of their cams. They recommended a SEH2832AL-10 assuming I could get the CR up to 9.5. I ran this through my software engine "dyno" (Engine Analyzer from Performance Trends) and it seemed too radical for what I was after. (I'm looking primarily for a good street cruiser running stock CI exhaust manifolds, 3.23 gears and stock TC)
                      I ran these through my dyno. Hughes recommended abt 9.25 CR for these.
                      SEH2428AL-11
                      SEH2226AL-10
                      SEH2024AL-11
                      Haven't made a final decision yet but the 2226AL sounds about right
                      Use: Hot street, works well with performance heads and high flow throttle body/carb, upgraded injectors
                      Idle: Noticeable
                      Vacuum: Fairly High
                      Converter: Stock to mild stall
                      Rear gear: 3.00 to 3.55
                      Benefits: Good idle, resto/cruiser, hot daily driver


                      With different head gasket thicknesses (Cometic) and by using a nail head intake valve (as opposed to the dished tulip intakes now in the engine) I can get CR's between 8.7 and 9.7
                      IMG_4697_1280x960.JPG IMG_6550_1280x719.JPG
                       
                    • qkcuda

                      qkcuda Well-Known Member

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                      That should be plenty of cam Jim. I used a 222/234 Crane in my stock 400 and it was a nice street cam. You could probably go down one step to the SEH2024AL-11 and still be happy.
                       
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