1969 Dodge Dart Western Sport Special(sorry, it's long, and might be boring)

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helliphinon8

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Hi. I'm new here, but I figured I'd share my project ideas with you all before I get going. And I will also post detailed info with pictures on the restoration as soon as it starts. 1st off, the history.... The Dart was bought new by my great Grandma in '69. It was a Western Sport Special that came equipped with a 225 slant 6, 904 trans, 7 1/4" rear, 4 wheel manual drum brakes, A/C, P/S, cream white paint with black cloth interior, and the ugliest hub caps known to man. :pukel:

When she got ill and passed away in 1988, my dad got the Dart. The vinil top had been removed ,and the roof was painted black in the 70's since she lived in Las Vegas, Nevada. In 1990, my dad had the car painted the original cream white, and had a new vinyl top installed->(BIG mistake!!). When I was 12, in 1993, we moved from Ventura Calif. to Apache Jct. Arizona, then the car was only driven once or twice a week at best until I got my license in 1997. I inherited the "fart" as we called it, and our relationship started.

This being my 1st car, and my Grandma's 1st "new" car, I babied the hell out of it. Everything was in perfect condition except for the driver's side carpet where her cane had tore it up. Me and this car went everywhere and had a **** load of fun. In 1999, I fell in love with a 1979 Trans Am WS6. I bought it & began owning Trans Am's until 2001. After I quickly realized that GM's were giant hunks of ****, I bought new Fords for 7 years since Chrysler couldn't and still won't offer a cheap "muscle car" like the mustang.

Anyway, the Dart sat from 2001-2008 on the side of my Dad's garage. The Phoenix, AZ area would be the last place you'd think about if you're worrying about rust. Unless you had a vinil top. Thanks DAD!! Needless to say, there are many rust holes in the roof now which will be no prob to fix since I'm an aerospace welder. What trouble is the sides of the roof above the rain gutters. They're as thin as paper.

My 1st thought is to grind away all of the active rust, and paint on some sandable rust killer, patch panel the holes, and bondo over everything since my best friend is an auto body tech with 15yrs exp. Changing the roof is outta the question since it's such a ***** to do, plus finding a doner car out here is next to impossible.

More of my plans are to come, but the rust is the major deal here. The V8 swap is next to come since there is no one I can find in the valley here that can build a /6 to run better that a V8 for a decent price. The disc brake front swap is another, and the paint and interior are yet to come including pictures as soon as the wife finishes college and gets a job.:angel3:

Any suggestions or help would be awesome if you were able to stay awake thru the long boring story. :toothy5:

THX,
Nate
 
I would go ahead to fixer up! You have a long story with it and it's a family car.

Ask a pro shop what the cost would be to change the roof skin. You can probably do the best job hunting for the correct and not rusted out roof skin. I don't think you're going to regret it.

But that's just how a Swede would do it!
 
I would go ahead to fixer up! You have a long story with it and it's a family car.

Ask a pro shop what the cost would be to change the roof skin. You can probably do the best job hunting for the correct and not rusted out roof skin. I don't think you're going to regret it.

But that's just how a Swede would do it!

THX for the advice, but I have researched the roof swap crap, and for a unibody car, it's a nightmare. I've found a few rust killer products online that claim to kill and stop rust. I think I'll try them before I go for the roof swap.
 
why not have a shop cut out the bad spots and put patches in then? (not a body man if my plan stinks please say so body people)
 
Since you are a welder by trade and your friend has 15 years expr. in body work I would think its just a walk in the park. Replacing the roof is a pain but has been done many times. If you were closer I would sell ya a roof off my parts car.
 
It would be much quicker to cut the entire roof panel off at the factory spotwelds, than to repair thin metal and pinholes, bondo and sand. Additionally, it would be a much cleaner fix and last another 39 years.

Welcome to the site, good luck with the WSS Dart!
 
THX for the advice, but I have researched the roof swap crap, and for a unibody car, it's a nightmare. I've found a few rust killer products online that claim to kill and stop rust. I think I'll try them before I go for the roof swap.

How is it a nightmare? Just install some temporary frame connectors before you remove the roof.
 
If you remove the SKIN of the roof, you wont need frame ties, even temporarily.
 
Oh...and are you out of Jeeps now?
 
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