1970 2-bbl Carter rebuild tips / things to watch or check for a first timer.

Discussion in 'Fuel and Air Systems' started by Alaskan_TA, Sep 4, 2018.

  1. Alaskan_TA

    Alaskan_TA Well-Known Member

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    Yep, I have not ever rebuilt a carburetor before.

    Kit ordered & I am sure it comes with instructions, anything additional to look for or check while it is apart?

    New fuel filter already installed.

    (low mile fairly scarce 318 car I love, so anyone suggesting to dump the 2 for a 4 will be openly scoffed at - that is NOT gonna happen)
     
  2. Alaskan_TA

    Alaskan_TA Well-Known Member

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    On last start attempt, it fired, idled for a few seconds, then started spitting gas out the vent & front diaphragm cover, over 1/2" of gas pooled on the manifold as you can see here.

    New manual fuel pump (not electric)

    valiant punishment.JPG
     
  3. DesertRat

    DesertRat I don't care it's all psychobabble rap to me. FABO Gold Member

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    Float stuck open or some such. One of my carburetors had a pinhole in the brass float, took three times to find it and I was the one that did.
     
  4. Mattax

    Mattax Just the facts, ma'am FABO Gold Member

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    Clean, Clean and then clean.
    Protect your eyes, face and hands.
    Spray the cleaner through every passage and orifice you can. Protect your eyes.
    Blow it out with air if you have. Little cans of air are OK if you have. Protect your eyes.
    On metal parts - no rubber or plastic at all - I sometimes rinse with a quick drying solvent - like brake or electric cleaner.
    If dirt or varnish is on anything internal - that is places fuel sits or flows, don't worry much about the throttle plates and venturies - keep cleaning.

    Set the float, choke, etc on the factory specs rather than the little sheet when ever there is a question.
    I believe '70 is an emissions carb. Idle mix adjustment may be done with an air bleed screw instead of a fuel mix screw.
    The fuel mix screws may be sealed or held within a range by some method. Check the FSM, MTSC and TSBs for your year and carb. If its the second year of use, check the year before. That stuff was changing pretty fast those years (67- early 70s).

    One more tip. If you must use teflon tape on an NPT fuel fitting, use 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 wraps, and make sure none is in front of the first thread. Don't want any bits of teflon or anything else in the fuel system.
     
    Last edited: Sep 4, 2018
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    • Murray

      Murray FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      Instructions with carb kits are poor. Most important are float level and float drop- get these right. If carb has not run for a while then you should soak/float the brass float to see if has a pinhole in it and doesn't fill up with gas and sink.
       
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      • Plymouth 65

        Plymouth 65 Floorable Deplorable

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        I agree with Mattax, the biggest problem I've had with rebuilding carbs is getting all the passages clean! 65'
         
      • Alaskan_TA

        Alaskan_TA Well-Known Member

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        I'll soak it before rebuilding, blow dry passages & all.

        I just pulled the top off, no fuel in the floats.

        There is some black gunk in the bottom though.

        35K miles or so, carb still has the aluminum part number tag that matches the broadcast sheet code, it is very possible it has never been apart for cleaning before.
         
      • Murray

        Murray FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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        Wait for kit to arrive and really disassemble and thoroughly clean. You don't need tape on front fitting, there is a gasket.
         
      • Mattax

        Mattax Just the facts, ma'am FABO Gold Member

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        If you know someone with an ultrasonic cleaner big enough for the carb, that's the cat's meow.
        Captured idle screws - if used on your carb, will make it that much harder to clean those passages. Since it was running OK - might try cleaning without removing those - if present. Sealed screws - similar, but once your remove the limiter cap or the lead seal - most will come out like a normal screw. Watch out for left handed threads on them. If someone here has that exact carb - they'll know.
         
      • Mattax

        Mattax Just the facts, ma'am FABO Gold Member

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        'nother tip.
        Lasagna pan(s), or something like it, is good for cleaning the carb in.
         
      • Murray

        Murray FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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        I use a cookie sheet with 1" sides.
         
      • rustycowll69

        rustycowll69 Well-Known Member

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        I haven't had one of those apart in decades, but I do recall an issue with the bowl covers. I believe if someone is careless tightening the bowl cover screws the cover (is soft and) can bend and have trouble sealing. There are check balls, which might be different sizes, so take note and don't mix them up.
         
      • Alaskan_TA

        Alaskan_TA Well-Known Member

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      • rustycowll69

        rustycowll69 Well-Known Member

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        hahaha, my wife hates that stuff. It has a really pervasive smell, and when it gets on you or your clothes it will stink up everything in a hurry. It doesn't bother me that much, but I can see her point. Do yourself a favor and be careful with it, use it outside if you can.
         
      • Alaskan_TA

        Alaskan_TA Well-Known Member

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        Sounds like it is the 'good stuff' then!

        lol
         
      • rustycowll69

        rustycowll69 Well-Known Member

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        oh, it works. just remember, if there is any plastic pieces, you don't want to soak too long. Even metal pieces can lose their plating if left in the soup too long.