1970 Dodge Dart - Ruh Roh

70DusterDev

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Thats sweet! When I did my car we had to do both full real quarters, rockers, remove the vinyl top and fix the roof and fix the lower part of the front fenders lmao. Doors and tail panel were rust free but dented lol. Soo you've got a fantastic start right there!
 
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dbittle

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Tonight the trim ring on the back glass totally beat me. I didn’t get a single clip to release using the tool I bought from Amazon. Anybody have any advice?
 

Brooks James

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I was gonna try and remove and remove the trim on my 70 when I get it ready for paint.
After I saw the technician who put a windshield in mine, struggle and damage the trim on mine, (which they reimbursed me for), I decided that I would find someone who definitely knew what they are doing.
Good for you !!
 

4.7Light

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I must be very patient which is short of shocking for me. I got my trim off all of it about 30 minutes but when I do anything on the car I research and read over and over lol. I find any info I can. Even been known to ask other members directly how they did that. Don't be afraid to read up first or ask the questions. You used the right tool and I used the same the other style sucks some are better than others. Mine was harbor freight tool. When you do hog rings you will hate them LMAO terrible I hate em I did my own seats. I hope you marked all your trim where it goes and pictures help later. I used tape and a sharpie on mine laid it out.
 

barbee6043

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best wishes for success with your project! I too have a 1970 Dart Custom that my Dad bought new and I bought it from him in 1975. These cars are pretty rare, high trim level, 2 door hardtops. They were the base for the 1970 Dart GT. A few tips for your project: Layson's restorations is the only source for the one year only Custom emblems on the quarters, the entire interior upholstery is available from Legendary Interiors - seat covers and door panels. They used the originals off my car as templates. Let me know if I can help in finding Dart Custom specific parts


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I have always loved white cars, and that interior makes it even more special.
 

dbittle

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I must be very patient which is short of shocking for me. I got my trim off all of it about 30 minutes but when I do anything on the car I research and read over and over lol. I find any info I can. Even been known to ask other members directly how they did that. Don't be afraid to read up first or ask the questions. You used the right tool and I used the same the other style sucks some are better than others. Mine was harbor freight tool. When you do hog rings you will hate them LMAO terrible I hate em I did my own seats. I hope you marked all your trim where it goes and pictures help later. I used tape and a sharpie on mine laid it out.

Yeah, the windshield didn't give me too much grief, but I'm not sure what was going on with the back one. I know the windshield trim has been off before, but I bet the rear trim hasn't. That might have been the difference. I finally got enough clips off to get the halves to separate and was able to slide the trim off of the remaining ones without directly attacking them. I was using the clip tool, about 3 mini screwdrivers, a door panel clip tool, a rubber mallet, and some little metal picks to get those things to release. It was slow going because I was having to horse the trim around and get at the clips while being careful to not mangle anything. I think everything came off ok though, after all was said and done. I figure its going to be a couple of years before anything goes back on the car, so every piece is labeled with what it is and where it goes. I use the sharpie and blue painters tape method for that too.
 

dbittle

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Today's fun was dealing with the passenger side drip rail. There was some rust in the bottom of the channel and some body filler where the seam goes. It looked like somebody put a bead of bondo in there with their finger at some point. I used a heat gun and metal pick to get the bondo out, and a plastic wheel, naval jelly and sandpaper to clean up the rust.

QUESTION: What should I do with the seam between the roof of the car and the outside lip of the drip rail? I pulled out the cracked and crusty bondo, but what is the right product to seal that area back up?

Thanks!
 

Mineallmine

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I used evercoat OEM bead seam sealer. What you are finding in the seam is probably not bondo but the original seam sealer that has dried up and cracked. Mine looked the same. Cleaned mine out really good, hit it with some epoxy primer, and then the seam sealer using my finger to smooth it out (dip your finger in soapy water first...it helps the sealer to not stick to your finger).

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Mineallmine

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Just a tip. Get a high ratio caulking gun to use this. I used a regular heavy duty one and it was murder on the hands. By the time I was done the entire car my hands were done and I destroyed the caulking gun.

I will definitely be buying one before my next project
 

dbittle

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I got epoxy primer laid down on the roof over the weekend. I mixed up a quart and had a bit less than a half left over after I got finished. I will probably strip and epoxy the passenger side next. That was the first thing I have painted since the 1990's, so I'm glad it was just a primer layer.

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dbittle

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Does anybody know if this color is B3 or B5 blue? It is on a piece that I pulled from another car decades ago and is the color that we want to make the whole car this time.

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dbittle

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Todays fun with the orbital sander on the passenger quarter revealed a couple of small rust perforations just behind the rear wheelwell. The bad spot looks to be about the size of a quarter or just a little bigger. I will add the picture tomorrow.
 

1WildRT

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care to tell me thats B-3 again?? Maybe TB-3 but certainly not EB-3

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so lets try this... I selected these photos because the colors were pretty close to correct.. Realize some brands mixes are way off.. PPG/Ditzler is usually pretty good
TB-3
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EB-3

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EB-5
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barbee6043

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Go to TCP Global Color Library, you will find factory codes and names for the colors. I have found them accurate. I had a 64 white mixed lasttear and PPGs info was bad off. Then. They mixed it by seat of pants and it was right on.
 

dbittle

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Maybe it could be B5 that weathered and sun faded? I pulled that front corner from a wrecked car in the 1980’s, so it was 15 years old paint when it got painted over.
 

barbee6043

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That is scrylic enamel with harner. Yes it fades. UV makes everything fad over time. Wet sand with fine 1500 +- grit maybe, hit with a buffer to see if oem color returns?
 

cosgig

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B5, original paint. Before (after sitting for 42 years) and after I hand rubbed it out with compound. It’s a 70 car, so it would be apples to apples with your 70.
Maybe it could be B5 that weathered and sun faded? I pulled that front corner from a wrecked car in the 1980’s, so it was 15 years old paint when it got painted over.

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