1971 340 Restoration reference photos

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GY3 71 Demon

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Does anybody have any photos or website links they can share that show color photos of survivor or properly restored 71 340 engines?

I've gone through quite a few magazines and been surfing the net - but I haven't found any complete sets of pictures of an original 71 340. :banghead:

In the past, I had big block cars and was able to find plenty of pics for those...seems like the 340 pics are harder to locate.

I'd sure appreciate it - thanks FABO!
 
I have quite a few pictures I could post here if it helps you out. they are mostly of restored engine bays of 70'-71' duster 340s, that are pretty much correct. I also have some of original engine bays on un restored cars.
 
some of these may be of members cars here.
 

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Does anybody have any photos or website links they can share that show color photos of survivor or properly restored 71 340 engines?

I've gone through quite a few magazines and been surfing the net - but I haven't found any complete sets of pictures of an original 71 340. :banghead:

In the past, I had big block cars and was able to find plenty of pics for those...seems like the 340 pics are harder to locate.

I'd sure appreciate it - thanks FABO!

A lot of the finishes and parts are common with 318 motors too.

GY3 Demon, does your car have?:
-A/C
-N95 California Emissions
-what is the SPD date of your car (early engines or orange, later are blue)
 
I have better pictures of this fellow clubmembers car. The hoses, A/C lines, clamps, radiator cap, maybe heater control, have been changed

http://www.hemmings.com/hcc/stories/2010/09/01/hmn_feature1.html

6060829-170-0.jpg
 
some of these may be of members cars here.

Very nice cars!

But a lot of not original type parts, finishes, and colors on those cars. The first purple one looks the most original out of the bunch.

IMHO, I would try to go off original unrestored cars and work backward.

The Orange 340 Demon that Bill Sefton owns that was covered in MCG magazine is a nice example to go off.
 
some more
 

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Very nice cars!

But a lot of not original type parts, finishes, and colors on those cars. The first purple one looks the most original out of the bunch.

IMHO, I would try to go off original unrestored cars and work backward.

The Orange 340 Demon that Bill Sefton owns that was covered in MCG magazine is a nice example to go off.
ya a lot of these are not totally correct, as I stated, but I'm not sure what the original poster of the thread is looking to see under the hood. Almost every car there is could be picked apart, as theres usally a couple items most owner's do not get 100% correct.
 
A lot of the finishes and parts are common with 318 motors too.

GY3 Demon, does your car have?:
-A/C
-N95 California Emissions
-what is the SPD date of your car (early engines or orange, later are blue)

As far as my car, no a/c. But it was built in Los Angeles so it has the CA emissions. The numbers matching engine is orange. The car's build date was the first few days of November, 1970.

Thanks for the engine pictures. I've seen a number of similar engines but, I'm really interested in seeing some original, survivor style 71 340s.

I'm not trying to pick apart anyone's engine compartment, that's not what I'm about. I just want to get my engine to appear as close to the way it came from Ma Mopar (without worrying about date codes, etc.) I have quite a few MCG mags but I must not have the one the orange 340 Demon is in. Do you know what issue it was?
 
As far as my car, no a/c. But it was built in Los Angeles so it has the CA emissions. The numbers matching engine is orange. The car's build date was the first few days of November, 1970.

Thanks for the engine pictures. I've seen a number of similar engines but, I'm really interested in seeing some original, survivor style 71 340s.

I'm not trying to pick apart anyone's engine compartment, that's not what I'm about. I just want to get my engine to appear as close to the way it came from Ma Mopar (without worrying about date codes, etc.) I have quite a few MCG mags but I must not have the one the orange 340 Demon is in. Do you know what issue it was?

Is it coded N95 on the fender tag or build sheet?

Just because it was built at the LA plant means it got California Emissions. Car built at the LA plant went to many other states. Only cars coded for California Emissions got CA emissions.

The 3 nipple breather, evap line to gas tank, and gas tank with all the hoses was used on all 71 cars. Those items were only on CA emissions cars in 1970.

This blue Duster that fanofpetty posted is a good survivor example IMHO:

Notice:
-throttle cable hold down is silver cad, nut is black phosphate with encapsulated nut
-idle solenoid correct and hooked up
-No dark red glyptol coating/paint on 3 spd wipers on 1971's. Just bare
-Has emission device in cowl cutout hooked up
-style of silver cad self tapping screw for washer bottle with encapsulated washer that has just slightly bigger diameter than screw head.
*I think this is a 4spd car. On an automatic there will be a speedo sensor under the brake booster that a short speedo cable from the cluster goes into and then another cable to the trans.

attachment.php


Notice:
-black painted handle on oil dipstick
-neg cable not painted overspray with neg cable with thick rubber insulator near engine lug
-hood latch and spring not painted. Should be a brownish cad.
-oil cap painted

attachment.php


Notice:
-heater motor ring painted semi gloss black, silver cad nuts, silver cad blower motor can
-fuel filter hose clamps are incorrect. Sould have crimp one-use Oetiker type clamps like what is used on the gas tank evap hard line to hose that goes to 3 nipple breather. Also used on body gas line to fuel pump.

attachment.php
 
Is it coded N95 on the fender tag or build sheet?

Just because it was built at the LA plant means it got California Emissions. Car built at the LA plant went to many other states. Only cars coded for California Emissions got CA emissions.

The 3 nipple breather, evap line to gas tank, and gas tank with all the hoses was used on all 71 cars. Those items were only on CA emissions cars in 1970.

This blue Duster that fanofpetty posted is a good survivor example IMHO:

Notice:
-throttle cable hold down is silver cad, nut is black phosphate with encapsulated nut
-idle solenoid correct and hooked up
-No dark red glyptol coating/paint on 3 spd wipers on 1971's. Just bare
-Has emission device in cowl cutout hooked up
-style of silver cad self tapping screw for washer bottle with encapsulated washer that has just slightly bigger diameter than screw head.
*I think this is a 4spd car. On an automatic there will be a speedo sensor under the brake booster that a short speedo cable from the cluster goes into and then another cable to the trans.



Notice:
-black painted handle on oil dipstick
-neg cable not painted overspray with neg cable with thick rubber insulator near engine lug
-hood latch and spring not painted. Should be a brownish cad.
-oil cap painted



Notice:
-heater motor ring painted semi gloss black, black phosphate nuts, silver cad blower motor can
-fuel filter hose clamps are incorrect. Sould have crimp one-use Oetiker type clamps like what is used on the gas tank evap hard line to hose that goes to 3 nipple breather. Also used on body gas line to fuel pump.

My car was originally sold at Spartan Dodge in San Jose - and is coded N95. I have the speedo sensor and the other emissions parts on the cowl and the back of the pass side valve cover.

The above photos are helpful but only to a point. There's a whole lot that is incorrect too (along with what has been mentioned, there's the 2-pulley alt., chrome oil cap, wires, hoses, etc., etc.).

Again, I'm not out to bash someone else's engine compartment, I'm looking for pictures of an engine that has been judged/determined to be all (mostly) correct.

I actually have some pictures from some of the mags back in '70 and '71 that differ a bit from this engine - I realize that there's often subtle differences in each car. And nothing is true across the board when it comes to what was original.

Thanks for your input, I'll keep looking...
 
My car was originally sold at Spartan Dodge in San Jose - and is coded N95. I have the speedo sensor and the other emissions parts on the cowl and the back of the pass side valve cover.

The above photos are helpful but only to a point. There's a whole lot that is incorrect too (along with what has been mentioned, there's the 2-pulley alt., chrome oil cap, wires, hoses, etc., etc.).

Again, I'm not out to bash someone else's engine compartment, I'm looking for pictures of an engine that has been judged/determined to be all (mostly) correct.

I actually have some pictures from some of the mags back in '70 and '71 that differ a bit from this engine - I realize that there's often subtle differences in each car. And nothing is true across the board when it comes to what was original.

Thanks for your input, I'll keep looking...

You got to weed out the non original stuff and take info on the original stuff. The expendable stuff like hoses, belts, wires, alternator are not really a mystery. That stuff is fairly easy.

Most road test magazine cars were done with pre production vehicles. Not a great indicator of production cars. But the color pictures are helpful with type of appearance and textures of certain parts.

The oil filler cap is painted but paint mostly flaked off. What appears chrome might be virgin fresh cad plating.

Don't assume you are going to find a magic ONE car that you can just copy. You need to take info from various unrestored cars and even exceptional restored ones to make a case for every part. The repetition on unrestored cars makes your decisions more concrete. Build location and SPD factor in their too.

Again, what items do you need info on?
 
In comparison with most of the photos I've seen, it seems (with the exception of the idle solenoid) my engine bay is pretty darn close to being how Ma Mopar set it up.

I don't have the idle solenoid hooked up because when I got the car it had an Edelbrock carb already installed. The car runs so well I don't really want to take off the carb if nothing is wrong with it. I actually have the original 71 TQ (needs a rebuild) and another correct TQ still in the vacuum sealed box. Anyway, since the carb is pretty much hidden by the air cleaner, I figure I can always replace the Edelbrock if it ever acts up.

In a few weeks we'll be going to the MATS - maybe I'll find an idle solenoid there. I know DCS sells them too.

Also, I'm sure there will be some original 340s in attendance in Vegas - I'll be sure and bring my camera!!

In the mean time, I would like to find a color photo of the PCV and grommet, the steering box, and the p/s pump & cap. So, other than that, I think I'm good to go for now.
 
My 71 340 Demon was built in July, 71, so the engine was blue. I purchased it in Merced California in 1983, but I don't think it is a Calif car. It has the vapor return line to the tank, but no speed sensor, and no contraption for vapor recovery in the trunk. It was built in Hamtramk(Not sure of spelling!LOL).
 
My 71 340 Demon was built in July, 71, so the engine was blue. I purchased it in Merced California in 1983, but I don't think it is a Calif car. It has the vapor return line to the tank, but no speed sensor, and no contraption for vapor recovery in the trunk. It was built in Hamtramk(Not sure of spelling!LOL).

Sounds like a 49 state car. Is there N95 on your fender tag and/or buildsheet?

The california 71's didn't have a vapor recovery contraption in trunk (charcol cannister?).
 
In comparison with most of the photos I've seen, it seems (with the exception of the idle solenoid) my engine bay is pretty darn close to being how Ma Mopar set it up.

I don't have the idle solenoid hooked up because when I got the car it had an Edelbrock carb already installed. The car runs so well I don't really want to take off the carb if nothing is wrong with it. I actually have the original 71 TQ (needs a rebuild) and another correct TQ still in the vacuum sealed box. Anyway, since the carb is pretty much hidden by the air cleaner, I figure I can always replace the Edelbrock if it ever acts up.

In a few weeks we'll be going to the MATS - maybe I'll find an idle solenoid there. I know DCS sells them too.

Also, I'm sure there will be some original 340s in attendance in Vegas - I'll be sure and bring my camera!!

In the mean time, I would like to find a color photo of the PCV and grommet, the steering box, and the p/s pump & cap. So, other than that, I think I'm good to go for now.

Got some detailed pictures of your engine compartment?

PCV's are the smooth (not 3 ribbed) 70-71 type painted engine color including the grommet (you can by the correct grommet through Mopar still). The PCV is available repro

Power Steering box is painted semi gloss black. Return line has a flat spring ring clamp that is chinese red in color.

p/s pump is semi gloss black

What power steering pump do you have: Saginaw or Federal (round neck). Cap is silver cad and generally not painted.

Here's pics of Bill Sefton's survivor 71 orange motor Demon automatic.

5259302-DemonSurvivor340Engine.jpg


"It does have an incorrect carb, it was replaced with a 72 TQ"

5259310-UROESilverDemonEngine.jpg


Check out this thread, lots of great info here: http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=5259245&an=&page=&vc=1
 
Got some detailed pictures of your engine compartment?

Finally got some decent weather so I could take some pictures.

I know there's some work to be done but I think it's getting pretty close to where I want it to be. I guess there's always something that could be more original but, spending crazy amounts of money just to have date codes etc., isn't for me.

Even though I have the correct/original 340 TQ, the edelbrock works great and was on there when I got the car so it'll stay if/until I have an issue with it. When the air cleaner is on the EB carb is not that noticeable (at least to me.)

I included a photo of my new Tuff Wheel I got from Dale's Cuda Shop - my original was getting pretty worn. I also bought a new horn ring base from MCB that replaced my worn out original. My original horn pad fit right into the base and together I think the two vendors have really great products.

Take a look at the pics and let me know your opinion - thanks.
 

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Finally got some decent weather so I could take some pictures.

I know there's some work to be done but I think it's getting pretty close to where I want it to be. I guess there's always something that could be more original but, spending crazy amounts of money just to have date codes etc., isn't for me.

Even though I have the correct/original 340 TQ, the edelbrock works great and was on there when I got the car so it'll stay if/until I have an issue with it. When the air cleaner is on the EB carb is not that noticeable (at least to me.)

I included a photo of my new Tuff Wheel I got from Dale's Cuda Shop - my original was getting pretty worn. I also bought a new horn ring base from MCB that replaced my worn out original. My original horn pad fit right into the base and together I think the two vendors have really great products.

Take a look at the pics and let me know your opinion - thanks.

Well done. Very nice.


Just a some things I see and mostly could be corrected for not a lot of $$$..

PCV to hose connection does not get a crimp oetiker clamp. Just push on.

Fuel filer clamps would be spring round wire rings or oetiker crimps. Not sure which. But not black flat spring ring.

Neg battery cable is bolted to the wrong place. Should be bolted on front of head with short bolt with encapsulated washer. There is debate on whether it was 100% not bolted to the motor before painting in 1971. You can see in the blue 71 Duster survivor above it's not painted. BUT notice it has a big cylindrical insulator need the lug. If you want to leave it unpainted I'd try to duplicate the insulator with some plastic/rubber and some craftsmanship.

If the heat shield is painted that meant the exhaust manifolds were on the car too. So there should be some over spray on them or at least on the ends of the manifolds.

Wiper motor just needs a resto. You choice whether to spend the money for that.

Master cylinder top looked painted. Should be silver cad, gold cad, or painted black with whole master cylinder assembly. Sorry I don't know which for this manual disk brake car.

Water pump bypass hose and clamped painted with motor.

Heater hose stand-off silver cad. Bolt is black phosphate.

No exhaust manifold gaskets. You can cheat by cutting of the excess between the ports.

The vapor return line to the gas tank looks black. Should be plated like brake lines. Metal strap is silver cad.

Also the factory carpet never had grommets for the high beam switch. Those just come with the repro carpet kits.

Not shown in any pictures, but the brass water drain plug on the block is not painted. Should be natural brass.

Biggest things that stood out and I noticed immediately were the negative ground cable to engine location and the oetiker crimp clamp on the PCV. Next would be the condition of the wiper motor.
 
Well done. Very nice.


Just a some things I see and mostly could be corrected for not a lot of $$$..

PCV to hose connection does not get a crimp oetiker clamp. Just push on.

Fuel filer clamps would be spring round wire rings or oetiker crimps. Not sure which. But not black flat spring ring.

Neg battery cable is bolted to the wrong place. Should be bolted on front of head with short bolt with encapsulated washer. There is debate on whether it was 100% not bolted to the motor before painting in 1971. You can see in the blue 71 Duster survivor above it's not painted. BUT notice it has a big cylindrical insulator need the lug. If you want to leave it unpainted I'd try to duplicate the insulator with some plastic/rubber and some craftsmanship.

If the heat shield is painted that meant the exhaust manifolds were on the car too. So there should be some over spray on them or at least on the ends of the manifolds.

Wiper motor just needs a resto. You choice whether to spend the money for that.

Master cylinder top looked painted. Should be silver cad, gold cad, or painted black with whole master cylinder assembly. Sorry I don't know which for this manual disk brake car.

Water pump bypass hose and clamped painted with motor.

Heater hose stand-off silver cad. Bolt is black phosphate.

No exhaust manifold gaskets. You can cheat by cutting of the excess between the ports.

The vapor return line to the gas tank looks black. Should be plated like brake lines. Metal strap is silver cad.

Also the factory carpet never had grommets for the high beam switch. Those just come with the repro carpet kits.

Not shown in any pictures, but the brass water drain plug on the block is not painted. Should be natural brass.

Biggest things that stood out and I noticed immediately were the negative ground cable to engine location and the oetiker crimp clamp on the PCV. Next would be the condition of the wiper motor.

Excellent, thanks for the pointers, I appreciate them...

I have the correct clamps for the fuel filter lines but two of them leaked when I installed them, so for safety sake I just used the spring style.

I've still got to fix the (-) cable.

Funny you say the wiper motor needs a resto - it's actually the original motor that is date code correct and IMO looks as it should. It's not been restored so I wouldn't change it from oem.

The pic makes the vapor return line look black - it's actually the same silver color as the brake lines. Same for the master cylinder cap - it's not painted just silver cad. And the heater hose stand off is silver cad too - but the bolt is natural (gray steel).

I've read the bypass hose was often painted. However, I've seeing two different pictures of original 340 engines with both of them having the bypass unpainted - so I'm going leave mine natural. One of the pictures was from a the April 1971 Road Test magazine (p29). (The review was on a 71 Demon with 2000 miles on it.) On top of that, I like the way it looks unpainted anyway :D.

Good suggestion for the exhaust manifold gaskets - though they look like they'll be a real PIA to get to, I'm going to give cutting off the excess a try.

Thanks again for your help...
 
heres a few
 

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Unfortunately that was as big as the saved. Ill fond the thread they were in.
 
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