1971 Swinger Build \6-V8 Swap

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FunnyOldMan

All who wander ,are not lost.
Joined
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Messages
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Location
Border of the Oranges and Angeles
Howdy,

I have been building Ole' Dutch/Dodge since 2017, and owned since late 2016. To date I have had very good progress in the build, reliability and torque is honestly the overall goal from this build. I am going to jump right in and hit the ground running. The good progress has been explained below with pictures to help go into better detail on what exactly went on in the 4 years of ownership.
Palm Springs purchase for 1800$ for OLE' Dutch/Dodge
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1.READING!!! As much as I could on this FABO forum. Thankyou all BTW+ I will mention accounts.
2.SPRING/FALL FLINGS Swap Meet Auto shows+Sale Listing visits for hard parts aswell.
In roughly a year and half of parts collecting and aoveral move to the garage where work could be condoned it was time to TADA!
 
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The slant 6 heart Dutch had, already had removed the HV/AC unit at that point. within that year the motor blew a freeze plug. I wanted to put a magnum v8 anyway at the time.
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Year later after doing well that year had movd into the garage that would be were i currently do all of the work so far. removal of the slat was a 6 hour job, and many days of removing small things to make the removal a breeeze.
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I re-did the firewall with fresh aircraft grade primer to improve hopefully in general the overall resto on OLE' Dutch. This process dragged for a long LONG time.
BnKcUg-sjqKybn6ffTyy7zZfDga6UaSyGGb2n96SFOjaFn--ElaQfmH1gVT6m0eRRKE_1R4qc125Up5IYD5=w930-h697-no.jpg

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Ad- To get to this point it took just over a year Of many days using a little peanut air compressor and Pawn shop pneumatic grinders With Harbor freight wire wheels. Whereas chemicals were paint strippers turpentine, And paint removers With many day cure. Sitting in a garage to cure with very minimal ventilation, Add a little - of scraping by Hand scaper in all the hard to get places
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At this point I had removed the old K-member, Front suspension, disconnected the wiring from the engine. Sitting on dolly carts as a poor mans rolller as I call it.
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2 Coats of primer later, it came time to put it all back on. YAY Now begins the process of how all the new parts and that whole year of other parts went through and have been put through.
 
With donations/deals agreed for 72 parts from fellow DARTS, DEMONS,73-76 CHALLENGERS,CHARGERS and 86 RAM VANS/TRUCKS. Without the help of these owners parts I could not have gotten to were I am at. Also services for fishing out a 318/360 MILD-v8 904-8.75 drive-train. I will start with engine to all around.
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After a year of waiting to pick up the engine from the builder James L Burt, the also owner recently of the V8904. Finally had it assembled to the new v8 correct Powder coated K-FRAME.
 
Wow amazing what a good coat of primer will do for looks.
Is that a 5.9?

And welcome to FABO

Thankyou kindly sir, that is one dilema i have been trying to figure out. I asked from the Engine builder for magnum 360. When I went to pick it up he told me it was a 364 LA MOTOR. On the block it says 318 though. I have found out the block was from a 1986 Van Block ID #'S I found are below. Any information helps.
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Below is a rough idea of where I am at so far currently.
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Before fab work and pulled off Ole' Dutch
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After Fab work for the LCA
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Currently getting charged for 300$ for 5x4" hubs and dreading going to the shop todo a deal that sounds like a total rip. Inthese times I am pretty sure everyone is trying to get a good deal.
 
Hmmm if you paid for a 360 magnum I think you got screwed.
I paid 3k for the build of that motor and quite dissapointed but it is what i got and need to work with it sadly it is my loss but i got to keep trucking. not to mention I was offered a 1971 360 whenI was buying OLE' Dutch/Dodge, for a extra 1200. Shame i turned it down. Moving forward though I am hoping to still get a great running OLE' Dutch again. Plus also the engine builder, that possibly screwed me is named James L Burt and I have been dying to get through all this, in high hppes of not getting screwed.
 
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MAYBE he stroked the old 318 but chances are he thought you would never know the difference and just sold you a stock 318. If it were me I would find out what I had. Did you get anything in writing?
 
MAYBE he stroked the old 318 but chances are he thought you would never know the difference and just sold you a stock 318. If it were me I would find out what I had. Did you get anything in writing?
Yes I have transactions and receipts of certain purchases I would not let him use my Funds at the time if I didnot know what he was purchasing. So far he has told me it is had a stock crank, 270 is kydarian Cam. He is also told me he board it 30 over Purchased the performer intake and the carb at the local fling Meet. Also purchased a 360 rebuild kit, Over all it took about a year To get done. compared to when he told me it would take 2 weeks to build.When we agreed in the beginning when I was just intrested in looking at A904V8 trans that he had. Mr. James L Burt Offered me he could build the engine in 2 weeks and this is what he gave me, Informing me that the motor had turned into 364ci and crunched the numbers in front of me while we were loading it in the Van to take with me when I was coming to pick it up. Mr. Burt also gave me pictures of him in stalling crank and Cam Which are below.
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There are alot of factors that can determine the cubic inch and hp. But what I have been trying to wrap my head around is if it is a 318 crank or a balanced 360 crank that came with the motor from a previous build when those cranks were still availible from what i have read.

Screenshot_20200202-193840_Chrome.jpg

UPDATE 5/2/20
After speaking with engine builder he has in for me that the motor has a stock 318 crank and is not a stroker. His words.
"I will try to dig through my mountain of paperwork in my storage and see what I can find for you. Yes it was an Isky cam and kit. It is a stock crank, turned and micro polished, not a stroker. I remember it has flat top, hypereutectic pistons, and if my memory serves me right it is right around 9.8 -10::1 compression ratio. A great combination for premium pump gas. An octane booster isn't neccessary but will add some horse power."
Day by day so far but gets closer everytime.
Wi$h me luck!
 
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This is where I am at currently I just took a photo of this. I am in the process of getting the final wiring to factory and making sure hopefully everything works as planned, And also Removing bolts to switch hubs on the one badd rotor.
 
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The image you are looking at currently is my dilemma with trying to make the replacement hub which was a almost $180 purchase for the current hub being with the hib and the old hub being the one that is not Attached to the rotor. Any tips to get the bolts through?

Great news with very little figuring out I was able to replace the hub on the one bad rotor, the problem was bearing races would fall right into to place rather then be pressed in. Now with that all done i can proceed with putting the wheels back on.WOOHOO
 
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With rebuilt lower control arms new upper and lower ball joints. Also to not forget the red energy suspension urethane upper bushings and a moog rubber lower control arm bushing.
New rotor bearing and some fresh grease and should be able to get these suckers on.
 
Now getting to trans and torsion bar area of Ole' Dutch/Dodge, Or as some of my friends like to call Dutch "THE SHART"! The transmission is a A904 that when purchased was Already rebuilt. Just to be sure I had it looked at by a transmission company and they re gasketed whatever they opened.

The 2 pairs of torsion bars that I have in my garage, one came with the purchase of Dutch the other came when buying parts from a Sale of a parts car 72 318 4 door swinger. The ones that came with the Dutch/Dodge were for a 2 barrel 318 #'s .091 and .092. The ones I had picked up from the parts donor were for 4 barrel 318 #'s .093 and .094.

So far currently drivers side torsion bar went in no problems but, passenger side has a header pipe in the ways so must work around and solve that problem. Also for people wondering if the transmission was the right length for the Tail cone drive shaft.It was and I also purchased a 318-904 driveshaft, Thanks to eBay giving the right trans mount with proper new rubber piece and correct bracket, This also includes the drive shaft. Currently all of this is hand tight bolted up in a mock up and all connected to the 7.25 or 7 ¹/⁴ rear that came with the slant 6.
 
Here is a copy also of the Fender tag decoding below, im posting it up for all people who might find this up quickly online for later and future use or reference

LH23:
Dodge Dart,Demon
High
2 Door Hardtop

C1E: 225 145HP 1-1BBL 6 CYL
1971
Los Angeles, CA, USA

134582: Sequence number

E24: 225 cid 1 barrel 6 Cylinder 145hp
D31: A904 3-Speed Auto Trans.
GW3: Bright White Exterior Color
H2X9: Trim - High, Vinyl Bench Seat, Black
TX9: Black Int. Door Frames
119: Build Date: January 19
209861: Order number

V1X: Full Vinyl Top, Black
U: USA Specifications
A01: Light Package
A61: Automatic Transmission Special Package
G33: LH Remote Racing Mirror
H51: Air Conditioning with Heater

M21: Roof drip rail moldings
M25: Wide sill moldings
M31: Belt Moldings
M43: Grille Trim Moldings
N95: Emissions Control
R11: Radio Solid State AM (2 Watts)

V5X: Body Side Stripes, Black
Y16: Sales Bank
END: End of Sales Codes
 
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Now looking forward into future plans which would be the lower half of the drive train which is already almost 80% of has been purchased. The replacement for the 7.25or 7 ¹/⁴, Rear will be a...
Drum Roll...
8.75or 8³/⁴ YAY
3.23 gearing + D True Trac+ SBP A body Axles.
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With the 489 3rd member Purchased from a sour deal on charger craigslist. Being one of my 1st purchases and learning curves of this build way back in late 2016. Not to mention purchasing both SBP A- Body axles and E-body rear at a spring fleet meet that I paid A happy 120 bucks for both. Then shortly after shortened. To correct a body size rear housing Dimensions I then went to the Gear Man in Santa Ana to Transfer the open diff to true track.
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I am hoping come break in period completion of the engine I will be able to replace the small block rear with the new rear and to throw on top of it a new pair of Hotchkiss rear leaf Spring. Which also has been purchased and sitting in the garage but the only hang up. lol That is stopping me from completion and Pressing axles In, Are buying the disk brake conversion kit that is close to 4 bills on eBay. Hopefully sooner than later the axle, Leaf Springs, and brakes. But i have to finish where i am at first. So any help or advice or anything you can share to help me move forward faster is greatly appreciated and any questions I will be more than happy to answer to the utmost of my knowledge on the vehicle. Thanks for reading and hope to hear from all of you guys truly lucky to have such a great forum site like this.
 
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Current update,

After the rotor ordeal and bearings/hub being istalled and replaced. hopefully to get alignment and finish wiring. most of the wiring dilemma is on air conditioning and I'm not planning on running hvac until I rebuild the original hvac unit that it came with. Pictures below are for the rotors assembly and the current dilemma of running in to cleaning and up datin The rubber seals on the gas tank. With thanks again to this website I have figured out how to clean it then got it is nowhere near far gone.
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Today I share with you guys on this forms good news after a looking on craigslist I have found a pair of exhaust pipes 2¹/²" with mufflers that are flow master
40s.150$! Straight pipe. Which came off of the sellers satellite B body.he is also adding the connector for headers which is a great upgrade from 2¹/⁴" pipe.
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Other updates i have are electtic ignition is almost complete and finishing getting clearnce for the torsion bar to the LCA, and getting the correct size throttle cable length. I am debating on going and sticking with original throttle cable, bracket and sleeve. Or just, using the whole new cable setup i get.
 
Nice old school build you got goin on here. I like it. Sorry the engine ended up not being what you wanted, but as long as he did a good job on assembly, it should be a good one. A 318 is a fine engine.
 
Nice old school build you got goin on here. I like it. Sorry the engine ended up not being what you wanted, but as long as he did a good job on assembly, it should be a good one. A 318 is a fine engine.
Thanks so much RustyRatRod, Im hoping to see it all work together. I read your posts and cant thankyou enough for all you do on here. Really helped clarify problems on these great cars. Have a great Sunday!
 
Today I share with you guys on this forms good news after a looking on craigslist I have found a pair of exhaust pipes 2¹/²" with mufflers that are flow master
40s.150$! Straight pipe. Which came off of the sellers satellite B body.he is also adding the connector for headers which is a great upgrade from 2¹/⁴pipe.
 
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