1972 Complete 318 with Matching transmission. Worth anything?

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I would get a ratchet and socket and try at least turning it by hand. If it'll turn a whole revolution, that's a good thing. Won't hurt a thing by hand.
 
i seen a jasper do some crappy rebuilding ...all they do is sell a good warrenty
had a sbc with eight linners and one slipped ...my machinist said thats cause they have a bunch of low paid people just slapping engines together....
 
but yes if you can run it ,get it to temp,good oil pressure,cylinder leak down ,compression #s then $1500 if not $150
and i hate buying used trans ,how many have i installed to find out they are junk
need to drop the pan,pressure test the clutches ...
 
If it's not installed in anything, or on a run stand or where you can actually bust it off and hear it run, consider it a core and price it as such. You can add a little for the intake and carburetor...if it has one.
if it has all its bolt on parts....its simple to strap it to a log,tree,tractor wheel..ect..give it elect and fuel...fire it up take a video.......now the price went up.....oh bag the tail shaft first.....but what rrr said is true....with no proof..its just a nice core
 
I sold a 1971 318 from a Demon. The engine was running on a stand with decent compression and oil pressure. I got $800 CDN for it less the intake, carb, alt, and exhaust manifolds.

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My bad. I thought the pictures were posted here. I understand why that seemed like charades with no pictures at all. It was Inside in a shop when I got it but it could have been outside before. I
Will open some stuff up tomorrow and get some more information. Here are some pictures if you want to look. Thanks View attachment 1716479788

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Only way that thing is worth more than a few hundred bucks is if you had the matching numbers car to put it in. Otherwise it's just a '72 318 and 904 core.

The corrosion doesn't look promising. It doesn't necessarily mean it's corroded inside as well, but yeah, even if that thing runs I can't imagine paying more than a few hundred bucks for it unless there's some kind of story to go with it or parts on it that I seriously doubt it has. If it won't fire I wouldn't give much more than scrap value.

Video borescopes are pretty cheap now, and the video quality even on the cheap ones is pretty good. I know I wouldn't be buying any no-history engines without pulling some spark plugs and looking at the cylinders. If you don't have one already, they're a handy thing to have around for all kinds of different projects.
 
I sold a 1971 318 from a Demon. The engine was running on a stand with decent compression and oil pressure. I got $800 CDN for it less the intake, carb, alt, and exhaust manifolds.

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Cool engine run stand you made there incorperating a K-member/radiator support.

Like the control console too.

Nice Job


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not worth much.. core 904 $75/$100. core 318 $150/$200. the performer intake is worth the most there. 100?150 bucks. i wouldn't buy a regular performer intake though..
 
Around here the complete 904 core if it isn't full of water an the fluid looks good us about 100 bucks.
It is worth less than that if you make the engine go with it.
Absolutely no market for low compression LA 318.

Back when we were running junk w trucks for plowing snow we always kept a running used engine or two as a spare l.
But once we switched to plowing with rusted ourrams with magnums engine failures became unheard of.
 
I re-read the thread title and chuckled. Worth anything? Nope or not much would be a correct answer.
 

Looks like it has a truck oil pan on it.

Not sure what they were running it in with those exhaust manifolds and rubber puck engine mounts.

Clearly it was a modified engine setup to fit a new application... back when it ran.

People usually don't pull out perfectly good running engines and transmission combos unless there is something wrong with them.

That was before the neglect and corrosion set in...

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Looks like it has a truck oil pan on it.

Not sure what they were running it in with those exhaust manifolds and rubber puck engine mounts.

Clearly it was a modified engine setup to fit a new application... back when it ran.

People usually don't pull out perfectly good running engines and transmission combos unless there is something wrong with them.

That was before the neglect and corrosion set in...

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Huh?

You can tell no such thing about the oil pan. It's definitely not a rear sump, so that would rule out most trucks. The biscuit style engine mounts are correct for a '72, and the exhaust manifolds appear to be for a car. Not sure how you can say for sure it was modified for anything.
 
Dodge Truck in the background.

Makes sense on how they got it out of the truck with the front end off, without bending the Dakota style 5 blade fan.

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Dodge Truck in the background.

Makes sense on how they got it out of the truck with the front end off, without bending the Dakota style 5 blade fan.

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Seems like you have more pictures than are posted in the thread.

Regardless, still a BIG assumption. Lots of equipment in that yard, could be they just tossed it next to the junk truck because they were gonna sell it. I mean, if I took a picture of my garage you might assume I had a GenI hemi in one of my muscle cars. Or that I had a 440 in any of them. Or that my Austin Healey's had been modified for any number of Dodge engines I have sitting around. None of which is true.

Based on the engine mounts and exhaust manifolds, you don't know if that engine was ever in that truck. Maybe they were gonna do it and changed plans.

Either way, it's not worth much.
 
I'm sticking by my previous.

If it runs, $500 is a great deal for you, and a mediocre deal for the buyer.
 
Overheating Warranty round tab on Passenger head frost plug from engine builder.

Along with Yellow ID paint.

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At this point for entertainment purposes, would be good if the original poster pulled one head to see what (flat top or valve relief) pistons are in it, and how far down in the hole they are and see which cylinders are rusted. Look at the cam condition same time.

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He can also rock the crank back and forth and watch the distributor rotor to see how much slop is in the timing chain. Will help tell how long it ran after the Reman Rebuild.


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Overheating Warranty round tab on Passenger head frost plug from engine builder.

Along with Yellow ID paint.

View attachment 1716479972

At this point for entertainment purposes, would be good if the original poster pulled one head to see what (flat top or valve relief) pistons are in it, and how far down in the hole they are and see which cylinders are rusted. Look at the cam condition same time.

____________

He can also rock the crank back and forth and watch the distributor rotor to see how much slop is in the timing chain. Will help tell how long it ran after the Reman Rebuild.


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You can do all of those things with a cheap video borescope and not have to take the engine apart, costing yourself the gasket set if it is in fact a runnable engine. You can probably get a decent enough video borescope to accomplish those things for less than the price of the head and intake gaskets nowadays.
 
Junk yards use the wax tab too
So they know if its been over heated
 
Overheating Warranty round tab on Passenger head frost plug from engine builder.

Along with Yellow ID paint.

View attachment 1716479972

At this point for entertainment purposes, would be good if the original poster pulled one head to see what (flat top or valve relief) pistons are in it, and how far down in the hole they are and see which cylinders are rusted. Look at the cam condition same time.

____________

He can also rock the crank back and forth and watch the distributor rotor to see how much slop is in the timing chain. Will help tell how long it ran after the Reman Rebuild.


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Nice detective work, Casey!
 
The best you could hope for would be ~$300-$500 if you can turn the crankshaft with a ratchet. As previously posted, open exhaust manifolds + setting outside = No Good. Besides rust, dirt daubers and mice probably used it as a condo. You could slap a carb on it (fuel pump is probably bad), take out the plugs and squirt WD-40 in the cylinders and crank it to see what comes out of the spark plug holes, then try and get it running. However, I think your just throwing money into a core engine/trans at this point. I hope you got this for free, or close to it.
 
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