1972 Demon Sub Frame Connectors

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Kraftei

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Stony Plain, Alberta
I'd like to add some "bolt on" sub frame connectors. My doors close perfectly so I would like to keep it that way. In hindsight I should have welded in a set when I had the interior out and the car was apart.

Curious whats out there for bolt on ? At best some very minor welding but nothing extensive. Not here to debate which is better, I just need a little insurance. Thanks !
 
manciniracing.com

They have the best price. I used the Mopar ones listed on the last A body I did. They fit nice but I did change the front mount a little bit to make it wrap around the frame. They are just bolted in and you can tell the difference. I didn't want to take the inside of the car apart to weld them. Maybe some day I will.
 
I don't know what the difference in the two would be. Maybe someone that knows will chime in.
 
I ordered the Mancini, turned out they were Mopar Performance. Here’s my issue, they totally don’t fit by the rear spring hanger because of the boxing. I thought these frame boxes were for a four speed, but maybe this is some aftermarket thing? Can someone explain this to me. Thanks

AFEDAA3C-6D40-4EDB-9F3D-AC3D796AD3AD.jpeg


D0B91E2C-A775-4027-8867-422EF42952A0.jpeg
 
I ordered the Mancini, turned out they were Mopar Performance. Here’s my issue, they totally don’t fit by the rear spring hanger because of the boxing. I thought these frame boxes were for a four speed, but maybe this is some aftermarket thing? Can someone explain this to me. Thanks

View attachment 1715523179

View attachment 1715523180
Your car has torque boxes! Most cars didn't come with them! What car do you have?
 
You'll have to modify the sub frame connectors to go around the torque boxes, or modify the torque boxes to allow the subframe connectors to slide through.

If you modify the subframe connector you'll have to weld them in, because the part that has to be modified is where the bolts go. If you modify the torque box by cutting a slit in it you may be able to slide the subframe connector through, and then access the bolts through the bottom of the torque box. But that will compromise the strength you're getting from the torque box unless you weld up the slits afterward.

Personally, I would modify the subframe connectors rather than mess with the original torque boxes. Either way you'll need to weld to get it done right, so I'd just pull the carpet and get it done.
 
Its a 1972 Demon, 4 spd.

I hear you, I need to modify the connectors to fit and weld them in. I am going to pass though, the car is not going to be driven hard as its more of a show car so I am going to leave it alone. I was just being overly protective. In hindsight I would have fabbed something up and had it welded in when I had the interior out. That ship has sailed. I have since picked up a 69 Dart, this will be the car that will be driven hard, it already has connectors ;o)

Thanks for the info, if anyone is in the Edmonton area, I have some new sub frame connectors for sale !!

IMG_2006.jpg
 
Its a 1972 Demon, 4 spd.

I hear you, I need to modify the connectors to fit and weld them in. I am going to pass though, the car is not going to be driven hard as its more of a show car so I am going to leave it alone. I was just being overly protective. In hindsight I would have fabbed something up and had it welded in when I had the interior out. That ship has sailed. I have since picked up a 69 Dart, this will be the car that will be driven hard, it already has connectors ;o)

Thanks for the info, if anyone is in the Edmonton area, I have some new sub frame connectors for sale !!

View attachment 1715534207
Sweet 69 dart custom
 
You can easily put connectors on a car and never touch the carpet.

Or you could just as easily light the whole mess on fire if you’re not careful. Pulling the carpet back away from the area above the welds is really easy to do
 
Taking the 4 1/2 inch nuts off the bucket seat on one side and the four thresholds screws and the one kick panel screwed to back the carpet off is way too easy even if you have to pop the back seat out which of course it just pops out...
I've said this probably a half a dozen times on this form at least.. for the price of those prefabbed bars which you have to get under the car and drill holes and make sure they're drilled properly all the way through to catch the other side and then they're just kind of dangle in there and not really solid and part of the frame. You end up having to weld them in anyways.. by that time you could have went to the steel yard and had two four foot pieces cut for $40. And if you didn't have a welder you can buy one at Harbor Freight for $89. And if you didn't have a helmet you can buy one for 40 bucks and if you didn't have any welding gloves you could buy them for 5... Still cheaper than those prefabricated astronomically overpriced frame connectors...
 
Taking the 4 1/2 inch nuts off the bucket seat on one side and the four thresholds screws and the one kick panel screwed to back the carpet off is way too easy even if you have to pop the back seat out which of course it just pops out...
I've said this probably a half a dozen times on this form at least.. for the price of those prefabbed bars which you have to get under the car and drill holes and make sure they're drilled properly all the way through to catch the other side and then they're just kind of dangle in there and not really solid and part of the frame. You end up having to weld them in anyways.. by that time you could have went to the steel yard and had two four foot pieces cut for $40. And if you didn't have a welder you can buy one at Harbor Freight for $89. And if you didn't have a helmet you can buy one for 40 bucks and if you didn't have any welding gloves you could buy them for 5... Still cheaper than those prefabricated astronomically overpriced frame connectors...
Hey I bought those astronomical sub frame connectors and regret every minute of it lol. They just don’t fit great unless I like to weld up half inch gaps.
 
Hey I bought those astronomical sub frame connectors and regret every minute of it lol. They just don’t fit great unless I like to weld up half inch gaps.
What I did was took a measurement from front the back and added probably a foot on top of that? First I cut the front part and filleted it so I could slap it against the bottom of the front frame and but the rest of it into the frame and weld all the way around... Like so..
20151206_112859.jpg

And then that and went against the front,
pretty simple with a sawzall...
20151206_113919.jpg

and of course for the back I slid that inside the rear frame after taking my $14 Harbor Freight 4 and a 1/2 in cutter grinder and put a thin cutting wheel on it and made 3 slices and opened it up...
quickndirtysubframeconnectors02.jpg

And I slid it in their far enough to catch this little hole on the bottom and welded that through as well...
20151206_114104.jpg

Easy peasy.... Oh yeah and a little black rattle can LOL...
 
What I did was took a measurement from front the back and added probably a foot on top of that? First I cut the front part and filleted it so I could slap it against the bottom of the front frame and but the rest of it into the frame and weld all the way around... Like so..View attachment 1715535270
And then that and went against the front,
pretty simple with a sawzall...
View attachment 1715535271
and of course for the back I slid that inside the rear frame after taking my $14 Harbor Freight 4 and a 1/2 in cutter grinder and put a thin cutting wheel on it and made 3 slices and opened it up...
View attachment 1715535269
And I slid it in their far enough to catch this little hole on the bottom and welded that through as well...View attachment 1715535272
Easy peasy.... Oh yeah and a little black rattle can LOL...
Oh I can see that third picture is not a picture of my car. It's actually a picture of how it's done and the one that I copied my idea from. I can tell because that muffler and exhaust is definitely not mine...
 
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