1973 Plymouth Duster repair and rebuild

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Ozyduster said:
What are the blue dots for, are they a legal requirement?
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Blue dot tail lights are illegal on U.S. roads because federal law requires rear lamps to emit red light only. The blue insert alters the color, making light emitted more of a purple and conflicts with lighting reserved for law enforcement.

The practice dates back to the early 1900s, when blue dots were used to help identify speeding police cars at night. During Prohibition, bootleggers adopted the look to disguise themselves as law enforcement and evade capture. By the 1930s–40s, hot rodders revived them as a style fad, and even today some muscle car and hot rod enthusiasts still add them for fashion. Interaction with law enforcement remains mixed—some officers ignore them as nostalgic styling, while others issue citations since they remain technically illegal.

The purple effect can be seen in the picture of the taillights when darker. You can see the purple in the right side.

Generally, you would have a glass dot which would sit infront of the bulb. That was not doable, and for above stated legal reasons I resulted in running LED's. I also learned that when I move the car to LED taillights, the blue glass filters the light making it a black hole from the rear. Now with the LED markers in the taillight lenses, I can turn them on and off as wish while still getting the style I am looking for.
 
Has anyone used or known someone who used stainless steel brake hose with AN-3 fittings in replace of hard lines? If so, how did it turn out? I have a neighbor who says its a bad idea as the hose bulges a little making the brake feel spongy.
 

JohnFM3 said:
Has anyone used or known someone who used stainless steel brake hose with AN-3 fittings in replace of hard lines? If so, how did it turn out? I have a neighbor who says its a bad idea as the hose bulges a little making the brake feel spongy.
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if the whole car's plumbed with flexi lines you will notice a softer pedal. i worked at a rally car supplies shop/warehouse and they discouraged customers from using all stainless braided flexi.
neil.
 
mygasser said:
if the whole car's plumbed with flexi lines you will notice a softer pedal. i worked at a rally car supplies shop/warehouse and they discouraged customers from using all stainless braided flexi.
neil.
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Bummer. Its so hard to accept that as some of these lines can sustain 4000 psi as a normal operating level when brake fluid psi is under 1500 psi.

Well, back to hard lines it is. Classic Tube is being difficult right now. And I am looking at other solutions.
 
mygasser said:
i've always cut and flared my own hard lines using pipe on a roll. flaring tools that give nice neat flares are pretty cheap these days as are the fittings and pipe.
neil.
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First attempt was a failure. I am trying a new flaring tool by Titan. See how that goes. Bought my flexible tube kit from The Stop Shop. This job will be made worst by not being on a lift. We will see how it goes. Stainless an AN-3 fittings would be so much easier.
 
Well, I bought a new brake line flaring tool which I really like made by Titan. Interestingly enough, they are a Seattle based company. I am not sure if that's a good or bad thing.... lol In any case, I got my lines made on the axle with little effort. And the flares turned out great in my opinion. Using the tool was easy. As soon as the remaining welding is complete and the front end is installed, I will get the front end on the ground and install the rear end.

Pretty straight forward
  • Slide the hose thru the clamp
  • Use the stop bolt to set the distance/depth in the clamp
  • Thread the form tool in for the first part of the flaring
  • Remove the form tool, flip it, and thread back in to complete the flaring.

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I cant even do single tac's clean. I dont know if I have penetrated both pieces for a good weld. I need help. And no one is willing.


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looks like a little more shielding gas may help. welding new clean steel is always easier/neater but get into old bodywork and it's definately 'dirty' in comparison. get it as clean as possible before welding as always.
neil.
 
Looks like you have sprayed something on prior to welding? If it is weld through primer pretty sure where your welds are going still needs to be bare metal have you made sure the metal is wire wheeled and clean?
 
Ozyduster said:
Looks like you have sprayed something on prior to welding? If it is weld through primer pretty sure where your welds are going still needs to be bare metal have you made sure the metal is wire wheeled and clean?
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My understanding of copper weld thru primer is that it can be welded thru. As mygasser stated, a little more gas may be the issue. The issue I know I have is I work IT as a Server Engineer and am learning to weld. Learning on the front suspension of my car is a very bad idea, and I know it. I was in a jam with someone who has bailed on me several times in the past, and as such I made some practice runs and thought with a change in style, I could be successful. I was wrong, and faced with the very same problem. I will learn to weld, but not on the car suspension.

I can say that other parts I have used weld thru primer on didnt require bare metal. Such as the shock hoops.

mygasser said:
looks like a little more shielding gas may help. welding new clean steel is always easier/neater but get into old bodywork and it's definately 'dirty' in comparison. get it as clean as possible before welding as always.
neil.
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The biggest problem is none of the mobile welders will do it for liability reasons. On one hand, I understand. On the other hand.... I was not aware of this hurdle. I found a classic mopar owner who is willing to commute 3hrs to help me get this done. My gratitude for the assistance is beyond.

After the welds are done, I can start bolting on the remaining front end and bending brake lines. Then the front end can come down.
 
Yep i got a fabricator to come to my work to weld things like the chassis connectors as quite dificult as you are welding thick and thin metals together and easy to blow holes etc.

Everyone has a different opinion on the weld through primer as it can make it spatter a bit, some guys will just spray the sandwich part of the metal and leave the weld surface clean. Basically get some tacs on it then wire wheel from where you are placing the welds. Everyone thinks welding is easy until they try it. I can melt stuff together and thats it lol. If i want neat and strong i get my fabricator to do it.
 
Ozyduster said:
Yep i got a fabricator to come to my work to weld things like the chassis connectors as quite dificult as you are welding thick and thin metals together and easy to blow holes etc.

Everyone has a different opinion on the weld through primer as it can make it spatter a bit, some guys will just spray the sandwich part of the metal and leave the weld surface clean. Basically get some tacs on it then wire wheel from where you are placing the welds. Everyone thinks welding is easy until they try it. I can melt stuff together and thats it lol. If i want neat and strong i get my fabricator to do it.
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Normally, I would just tac things together and pay the pro's to finish. My neighbor seemed to like the working with the primer when he welded the shock hoops. I dont know, like I said I am not a welder and I have not put in the practice to do suspension work, body panels only. I am unemployed, and forced to put the house up for sale mid Jan if I dont find a job. This is making funds tight.

I didnt want to buy this car in the first place due to my employment status, but my wife did as a gift to me. And has put out the funds to get it this far. I am so close to the finish line. And so are the funds.
 
Sorry to hear mate!! Thats amazing the wife supports your hobby, but also working on cars calms me down. I run a company with high stress and its my destress thing.
Have u had a look on market place even to see if someone will come weld. Its a simple job for a bloke with a portable welder
 
Ozyduster said:
Sorry to hear mate!! Thats amazing the wife supports your hobby, but also working on cars calms me down. I run a company with high stress and its my destress thing.
Have u had a look on market place even to see if someone will come weld. Its a simple job for a bloke with a portable welder
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In the states, everyone is crazy to get rich off someones mistake. Such as welding a suspension bracket to the chassis. And it doesnt have to be the car owner. It could be the person who was hit by my car, finds out someone did this work which failed and goes after the person who welded it. And as such, all the mobile welders declined to do the work. Until one guy I called who is a mopar owner said he would drive 3hrs to help me.
 
BTW: You are right about my having a great wife. I have been in a depressive state, and this car has been something to look forward to. I declined to want it as I knew just what it was going to take to make it right. It was a great deal, but with alot of work needed. Hopefully soon I will have it on the road.
 
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The welding is done. I am very happy with how it turned out. And the person who did it was great. I was very distressed in the message I left following my attemp, and he noted it and made a 100 mile trip here this evening. I can now clean and paint tomorrow (most likely in morning), and start bolting the front end on in the afternoon. Build new brake lines up front, and put her on the ground. Next to get the rear end installed, shorten the drive line, and build rear brake line. Hard lines on the ford 8.8 have been built as shown in prior post. We are making progress.

Example of the weld job.
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That weld isnt going anywhere........ yea man the biggest issue with the states is the Ambulance chasers. Thankfully isnt like that here due to how our legal system is set up.
 
We are cleaned, primer’d, and first coat of paint drying. The plan is second coat of paint in morning, break, third coat of paint in afternoon, then complete the remaining installation job. Hopefully front end on the ground by end of day Tuesday.
 
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