alriiiigghhttt. who is bored? I have a 74 dart custom 318 2brl it starts but will not hold an idle. let off the gas and she stalls. I have replaced the carb, fuel pump,distributor cap/rotor, plugs, wires ,coil, voltage regulator. one owner 57,000 always serviced miles. I have air fuel and spark. vacuum lines are well enough not new but not bad looking or dry rotted. possibly the BS emisions stuff or ?
1974 Dart
- Thread starter Brad330
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Sounds like a vacuum leak did you for leaks? How does it run going down the road?
Does the car have an egr valve that could be stuck also.
it does have an egr valve, I was curious about that myself. when the rain passes im going to go mess with it. I got it running long enough to move from one garage to another and left it out to wash it. it hasn't been on the road since 2012. stored indoors.
I would check both for a stuck egr and for a vacuum leak. Where you at in ohio? Just curious
Mayfield and Cuyahoga falls. I worked in Streetsboro for the last 8 years though.
Local then that is really cool. If you run into problems you are not that far away. I still think you either have a vacuum leak or a stuck egr if these old cars sit they do all sorts of weird things. How does the motor sound in general motor quiet etc no lifter ticking does the motor sound like it is missing? You might want to look at the plugs if it has a vacuum leak the plugs will start turning white. Black means it is running rich etc
Another thought how old is the gasoline could just be case of bad gas no pun intended.
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Or a plugged bowl-vent.
in on or under?
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Your EGR valve is fully plugged and is already acting as a block-off plate. You coulda tested it before you pulled it off and known that.
Brakes OK? Leaking booster?
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If the atmosphere cannot find it's way into the fuel bowl, carburation stops. Several different styles of bowl vents have been used over the years.
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To idle
your engine needs
1) fresh fuel
2) a sealed intake tract.
3) a good working low-speed circuit,including the bowl vent
4) a properly adjusted speed screw.
5) valves that close. and open. and at the right time
6) reasonable compression, in every hole
7) reasonably close ignition timing, and a good working ignition system
8) a clear exhaust system.
To stay running ,above idle, your engine needs all of the above as well. But, it is less sensitive to a problem in any one area.
At idle; 1 thru 5 are very important, and 6 to 8 only a little less so.
From your description it would be easy to point the finger at 4,1,3,2; in order of ease to check/verify.
your engine needs
1) fresh fuel
2) a sealed intake tract.
3) a good working low-speed circuit,including the bowl vent
4) a properly adjusted speed screw.
5) valves that close. and open. and at the right time
6) reasonable compression, in every hole
7) reasonably close ignition timing, and a good working ignition system
8) a clear exhaust system.
To stay running ,above idle, your engine needs all of the above as well. But, it is less sensitive to a problem in any one area.
At idle; 1 thru 5 are very important, and 6 to 8 only a little less so.
From your description it would be easy to point the finger at 4,1,3,2; in order of ease to check/verify.
i thought about that way after the fact. just unsure of what im looking for. ive been reading the 3000 page Chrysler service manual. I feel like im chasing my tail and missing something dumb. I need to yank anything emissions related and dumb it down.
yes the small bit of use I gave them they seemed fine. no visible leaks anywhere. I remember my dad doing something with a brake booster for vacuum but it was on a chevy so I didn't spend much time looking at it going thru it.
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Have you got an electric throttle kicker on the passenger side of the carb? It is an electric solenoid with a plunger sticking out of it that shoots out when the key is in the run position,and opens the throttle just a little bit.
other than disconnecting the vacuum line what could I have done differently and how necessary is the egr?
spray around all the vacuum hoses and the base of the carb with carb cleaner, see if it revs up. If it revs up, you found a vacuum leak
I cant keep it running long enough to do that hahahah. im working alone.
disconnect and plug every single vacuum hose coming off the intake or carb. See if it idles
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The EGR is real easy to test on the car. It is not supposed to function at idle, and not at WOT, and not, a lot of other times. It is only supposed to work on a warmed up engine, and only under light throttle and usually this is at cruising speed.
You can diagnose it's operation with a vacuum gauge plumbed into the line and brought up to the windshield, then go for a roadtest. This,however does not prove it's working, only when it is supposed to be working, and assumes all the other plumbing between the gauge and the vacuum source, is correct and functioning correctly,lol.
To test the EGR valve it self is a 2-parter; first it has to respond to a vacuum by lifting the pintle valve. You can see the valve as a thin rod by looking thru one of the windows in the bracket that attaches the vacuum pod to the casting. Secondly, the valve itself has to be unobstructed by carbon.
To do this on the car, I stick a finger thu a window and physically lift the valve off the seat. If the valve end is open, and the passages to it are open, the engine will usually immediately stall, or suddenly begin to idle very poorly. If the idle doesn't instantly react, then I know the system is not functioning. Which isn't necessarily a bad thing,lol. I wouldn't ever buy a new valve. If I can't get the old one to work, then so be it. Test 2 is the same except using engine vacuum to engage the diaphragm, bypassing all the controls or by using a vacuum pump, or by just sucking on the hose, looking for a ruptured diaphragm. A vacuum leak here is usually not even noticed if the system is otherwise functioning correctly.
Ok now a few words about that devilish device. The idea behind it is to introduce previously burned exhaust gasses into the chambers to reduce the combustion temperature in the chamber. They say this exhaust is cooler than what goes on in the chamber.They say the reason they do this is to reduce the creation of NOX, which they say is an atmospheric pollutant. They say a lot of things I don't believe.
Ok but wait, why do we burn gas in the first place? Hyup to create hot gasses that will push down on the piston and ultimately propel our vehicle down the road. And the hotter the gasses the greater the push right.
But this device is only supposed to work at very small power settings, and in more or less steady-state conditions like cruising. So they say we won't miss the energy. Tell that to your gas gauge.
If it don't work and ain't stuck open, I'm not gonna lose any sleep over it. Governments all over the face of the earth have done far greater damage to our atmosphere, and continue to do so every year. IMO, that device is just there to increase our fuel consumption, to keep us slaves to the oil barons,lol. End rant.
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