zac_F71
Well-Known Member
I can honestly say I want to be done with Fords-
Asking $4,500 as it sits or I'm going to start parting it
car is located in Clitherall MN 56524 PM or post any questions
VIN for those that want to look it up
1FABP28F5DF214192
Fresh 302- 94 block- decks milled .009"
worked AFR 165 heads milled to 54cc chamber (10.1:1 static CR w/ 8548PT2 gaskets - FTI custom valve springs 1.90/1.60 valves)
Scorpion 1.72 stud RR's
Ford Racing F303 cam
Rollmaster billet timing gears
Hyper Silvolite .030" pistons
ARP head and main studs
crank was polished STD/STD
CFR 7qt oil pan w/ modified 3.8L dip stick
Milodon windage tray
Ford Racing aluminum flywheel/ Centerforce dual friction 10.5" clutch
Ford Motorsports SFI balancer w/ aluminum crank pulley
Summit long tubes/ 3" Dr Gas X/ 3" Dynomax SS welded ultraflow dumped at axle
Air Gap 4bbl intake gasket matched to 1250/ 1" phenolic spacer/ Holley 4150 with something wrong with it- can't figure out
140GPH mechaincal pump and all real AN line and fittings, with FPR and gauge
Ford Racing aluminum DS
Ford racing 4.30 gears in a rebuilt 8.8 has girdle cover- ranger 5 lug axles
Comp Engineering 3 way adjustable rear shocks
87+ QA1 tubular K/ stock control arms/front spindles w/ SVO power slot rotors/ Koni style adjustable struts
87+ 4 cylinder springs- rear cut 1 coil or more
stock T-5 w/ steel bearing retainer and Hurst shifter
poly motor/trans mounts/ trans X member/ carrier bushings
square tube aftermarket control arms
19" Electric fan from 4.6L cougar w/ Hayden adjustable controller
Be Cool aluminum rad works great and don't run hot
Weld Prostars 15x5 front with 205/65 Michelins and 15x8 w/ MT bias ply ET steets 27/10.50 with a summers worth of tread OR a weekend at the track
VERY clean original black interior
underside /engine compartment sand blasted and painted
fiberglass 4" cowl hood
probably more I'm forgetting...
The bad- rust on sunroof area, rust on bottom of doors, rust on hatch lip (covered by wing), the Holley carb drips fuel from the primary boosters so it likely needs a new carb (still saving for one) dripping stops when driving it- (have driven it 12 miles problem free) the dripping causes it to flood and it won't idle below 1,800rpm. only mechanical problem with the car though doesn't over heat but does get hot when running it hard which I expect for a fresh setup that isn't really tuned- could use a headliner and the sun visors don't like to stay in any place
Have receipts for most everything- I hold a clear WI title for it and would be a GREAT start for someone wanting a fun car and doing very little work..
First start up
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V4louTe6JF8&feature=plcp]1983 Mustang HCI 306 first start up - YouTube[/ame]
summer 2010- after the 5 lug swap
PO pics (I could never get good pics of the underside- it's a little dirtier than this as I haven't washed the car in over a year)
Asking $4,500 as it sits or I'm going to start parting it
car is located in Clitherall MN 56524 PM or post any questions
VIN for those that want to look it up
1FABP28F5DF214192
Fresh 302- 94 block- decks milled .009"
worked AFR 165 heads milled to 54cc chamber (10.1:1 static CR w/ 8548PT2 gaskets - FTI custom valve springs 1.90/1.60 valves)
Scorpion 1.72 stud RR's
Ford Racing F303 cam
Rollmaster billet timing gears
Hyper Silvolite .030" pistons
ARP head and main studs
crank was polished STD/STD
CFR 7qt oil pan w/ modified 3.8L dip stick
Milodon windage tray
Ford Racing aluminum flywheel/ Centerforce dual friction 10.5" clutch
Ford Motorsports SFI balancer w/ aluminum crank pulley
Summit long tubes/ 3" Dr Gas X/ 3" Dynomax SS welded ultraflow dumped at axle
Air Gap 4bbl intake gasket matched to 1250/ 1" phenolic spacer/ Holley 4150 with something wrong with it- can't figure out
140GPH mechaincal pump and all real AN line and fittings, with FPR and gauge
Ford Racing aluminum DS
Ford racing 4.30 gears in a rebuilt 8.8 has girdle cover- ranger 5 lug axles
Comp Engineering 3 way adjustable rear shocks
87+ QA1 tubular K/ stock control arms/front spindles w/ SVO power slot rotors/ Koni style adjustable struts
87+ 4 cylinder springs- rear cut 1 coil or more
stock T-5 w/ steel bearing retainer and Hurst shifter
poly motor/trans mounts/ trans X member/ carrier bushings
square tube aftermarket control arms
19" Electric fan from 4.6L cougar w/ Hayden adjustable controller
Be Cool aluminum rad works great and don't run hot
Weld Prostars 15x5 front with 205/65 Michelins and 15x8 w/ MT bias ply ET steets 27/10.50 with a summers worth of tread OR a weekend at the track
VERY clean original black interior
underside /engine compartment sand blasted and painted
fiberglass 4" cowl hood
probably more I'm forgetting...
The bad- rust on sunroof area, rust on bottom of doors, rust on hatch lip (covered by wing), the Holley carb drips fuel from the primary boosters so it likely needs a new carb (still saving for one) dripping stops when driving it- (have driven it 12 miles problem free) the dripping causes it to flood and it won't idle below 1,800rpm. only mechanical problem with the car though doesn't over heat but does get hot when running it hard which I expect for a fresh setup that isn't really tuned- could use a headliner and the sun visors don't like to stay in any place
Have receipts for most everything- I hold a clear WI title for it and would be a GREAT start for someone wanting a fun car and doing very little work..
First start up
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V4louTe6JF8&feature=plcp]1983 Mustang HCI 306 first start up - YouTube[/ame]
summer 2010- after the 5 lug swap
PO pics (I could never get good pics of the underside- it's a little dirtier than this as I haven't washed the car in over a year)
