1st Time 727 Removal

[mario03srt]

All,

I'm replacing the 360 in my 73 Dart Swinger and taking the transmission out with it. I have off the cooling lines, neutral safety sw plug, and drained the pan. This is a console shift car.

Question please, what is the minimum left to disconnect on the shift linkage to pull out the assy? I have the FSM but it is not helping me. There is an aftermarket downshift cable on it. I don't want disrupt any thing unnecessary. I working on jack stands so I a bit challenged.

Any other points and tips on sliding this whole thing out?

Thanks,

Marion

 

[67Dart273]

I tend to "take more off" to create room to work. In a shop with a hoist, concrete floor, and a good trans jack, this is minimized.

I would remove the kickdown at the trans lever, and remove that linkage from the trans pivot on the side of the bell, and consider removing the pivot

The shift linkage should be pretty self evident, just look. If you remove the bottom support bracket under the trans, and the linkage from the vertical rod, the rod will move some out of the way.

Be aware of engine support, how are you managing that?

 

[mario03srt]

I tend to "take more off" to create room to work. In a shop with a hoist, concrete floor, and a good trans jack, this is minimized.

I would remove the kickdown at the trans lever, and remove that linkage from the trans pivot on the side of the bell, and consider removing the pivot.

The kick down is a flexible Jegs cable to work on the Holley. I was thinking on bringing it out with the eng/tranny. That way no re-cal/adj would bee needed.

The shift linkage should be pretty self evident, just look. If you remove the bottom support bracket under the trans, and the linkage from the vertical rod, the rod will move some out of the way.

I took off the 2 nuts on the pivot bracket (?) and took off the pin on the rod and pushed it over like you say. From what I can tell that's it. Took off the cross member, and speedo cable too. Tranny mount looks pretty tired, should I remove it for clearance when I get the engine hoist on and pull it all out?

Be aware of engine support, how are you managing that?

I have a jack under the tail for now if I understand you comment correctly.

Thanks,
Marion

 

[mario03srt]

Well she came out w/o any real issues. And no big messes either as I was pleased to find a drain plug on the pan and the convertor drained out mostly.

One of the things I was anxious to find was the B&M 3000 Hole Shot convertor, new clean fluid and new seals! The tranny mount looked original and is smoked but looks like I'll be needing new cooling lines and they twisted up when I tried to undo them from under the car. I am now looking for an aftermarket tranny cooler (used) to replace the radiator type.

Now that I know the stall I can go on with my cam selection for the engine rebuild.

Thanks,

Marion

 

[67Dart273]

I should have mentioned..........be careful with the TC. It's a good plan to take anything, tie wire, a small bracket bolted to the bottom of the bell.......to hold the TC in.

Also, you may / may not be aware, the flex plate only goes 'one way' due to an odd bolt hole. This is for the balance weights on some converters. Some converters / flex plates are marked. "Worse case" you can put one or two bolts in, and rotate and check that the others are lined up. Only takes 3 tries, LOL