[Found!] 2 solid lifters for small block
- Thread starter Righty Tighty
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What brand lifters do you have now?
This is actually important unless you (very possibly) don’t mind ordering two pushrods that have different lengths than the rest.
This is actually important unless you (very possibly) don’t mind ordering two pushrods that have different lengths than the rest.
I have the Lunati 71977PR lifters. That actually brings up a question - I still need to measure for my new pushrod length, since I'm using a new cam and lifters. I suspect stock pushrods won't be correct. Seems I would need to do that first, right? Not meaning to turn this into a tech thread, but this is my first rebuild. Lots of learning to do.
How are you going to accomplish this? Solid and hydraulic lifters are different heights and require different types and lengths of pushrods and rocker arms. You won't be able to turn the engine through a revolution to get the correct measurement.
I was going to use my current hydraulic lifters until I learned you can’t use them to check P2V, since they compress and wouldn’t give an accurate measurement. I was told I needed to use solid lifters to check P2V.
That’s a huge problem and you weren’t given all the right information. The first issue is that any solid or Hyd. lifter you get that come from a different manufacturer will have different depths and depth differences between the solid and Hyd. lifters themselves, from where the pushrod sits to the bottom of the lifter where it sits on the cam.
Second problem is in order to check for pushrod length on a Hyd. cam, you need to install checking valve springs. There super light designed to only keep the rocker up and not mess with the Hyd. lifters plunger but you should take serious note on what’s going on at the lifters plunger when measuring for pushrod length.
While there is a lot of forgiving room, being exact for a verity or reasons needs a careful eye and exacting lengths and specs.
If your running this for fun, and your not so super serious about every last HP, then a simple check rod expanded to depress the lifter approximately .050 will do. Or what ever you desire.
While this is less than perfect, the use of the OE stamped rockers are way less than right and a general measurement of the pushrod will do. I have gone this route and set the length to my desired route.
Second problem is in order to check for pushrod length on a Hyd. cam, you need to install checking valve springs. There super light designed to only keep the rocker up and not mess with the Hyd. lifters plunger but you should take serious note on what’s going on at the lifters plunger when measuring for pushrod length.
While there is a lot of forgiving room, being exact for a verity or reasons needs a careful eye and exacting lengths and specs.
If your running this for fun, and your not so super serious about every last HP, then a simple check rod expanded to depress the lifter approximately .050 will do. Or what ever you desire.
While this is less than perfect, the use of the OE stamped rockers are way less than right and a general measurement of the pushrod will do. I have gone this route and set the length to my desired route.
dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
I may be wrong but I don't think he wants them to run he is just using them to check valve to piston clearance. It that's how I took his post.
Thanks. I do have checking springs and a check rod. I’m a little confused because I’m sure I’m not the only person who’s ever wanted to check clearance with hydraulic lifters, yet there doesn’t seem to be a set and true way.
This engine is just for cruising, I doubt I’ll ever take it to the track. I just want a solid and reliable build.
You are correct.
That's correct. You cannot simply get the piston to TDC with clay on it, depress the springs and take a measurement. It doesn't work that way. You must cycle the engine through a complete revolution on that one cylinder, then take the measurement. The valves do not reach their maximum lift with the piston at TDC. They reach maximum lift "wherever" in the cycle the camshaft dictates. The reason for the light checking springs is so the hydraulic lifter plunger does not compress.
IMO, this is all ado about nothing. Members here have him running down a totally unnecessary rabbit hole getting him to do something that is completely unnecessary. No way in HELL at his cam's .050" duration will he ever have piston to valve interference. Well, I guess if he installed the timing chain WRONG, but there's "THAT".
If you have checking springs, you need nothing else.
dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
So you can check them with hydraulic lifters as long as you have the checking springs?
Yes. That's what they are for.
Well sonuvagun. Thanks RRR and rumblefish for the advice and thanks pishta for the offer.
I just use a set of rocker arms, lifters and push rods from a 273 to degree cams and check piston to valve clearance... If you use a matched set from a 273, it will work...
pishta
I know I'm right....
gut a hydraulic and make a spacer inside to make it a solid hydraulic length and keep your valve springs on. I thought checking springs were used on adjustable length pushrods so they would not bend them? I just run adjustables. Suppose you could just run the valve in the bare head, slowly cycle the crank and keep an eye on the valve. find where it hits and measure the lowest drop. Your not going to hit with stock pistons unless your running a .700 lift cam, and a teen would probably never hit as they are so low in the bore anyway. Whole operation is probably not necessary on a streetable cam with stock pistons unless you want to do it for the experience or blueprinting a motor.
Sure, but not everybody has your mountain stash of parts, either. lol He says he has the checking sprAngs, so he has everything he needs.
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