2 years chasing low pressure at the caliper...
- Thread starter Icetech
- Start date
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make sure all sides are separated
I've seen in pressure measurement fittings drilled wrong
valves, too
and maybe it's the only thing not changed
I've seen in pressure measurement fittings drilled wrong
valves, too
and maybe it's the only thing not changed
My money is that the distro is drilled all the way through
Very few parts stores have actual catalogs now days.
Our old NAPA store had a full rack and Barry could find a longer brake hose for you. Back of the book is where it's at.
Icetech
Well-Known Member
Very few parts stores have actual catalogs now days.
Yeah, on rockauto if you hit "Info" on a hose it will give the length, i just didn't bother to measure first cause i figured it would be fine.. and i might just be thinking it needs to be bigger than it actually is... story of my life.
Icetech
Well-Known Member
K.. different flex line... 600psi... took the block out, perfectly clean, all ports go where they should.. no issues at all. i have a tiny leak i can't find now though, i think it's the rear ports.. will fix that when i'm less mad.. have to re-bleed the whole system again, no biggy there...
Might try to find a drum setup locally honestly.. never had issues running them in the past, wish i had kept my parts i took off but didn't thik i would need em...
BTW... nothing stupid here i'm missing right? i can tunnel vision and overlook something obvious...
Might try to find a drum setup locally honestly.. never had issues running them in the past, wish i had kept my parts i took off but didn't thik i would need em...
BTW... nothing stupid here i'm missing right? i can tunnel vision and overlook something obvious...
Icetech
Well-Known Member
so.. the only thing i can think at this point is to take the bottom of the caliper and tilt it out so the bleeder screw is more vertical... might be a tiny bit of air in there but don't think that's the issue.. especially since this is how they are made.
MobileCustoms
You can twist perceptions, reality won't budge
Maybe you could try pulling the rotor and caliper off the car and mocking it up so the bleeder is perfectly at the top and run another pressure test.
Or, use a different rotor and caliper from a different vehicle combo mocked up off the car for an additional pressure test. Just a thought. Nothing is more frustrating than not being able to figure out something that is normally easy. I fugging HATE giving up. I feel your pain!
Icetech
Well-Known Member
yeah, it's makin me nuts.. there is no reason for this to not work.. will figure it out eventually
MobileCustoms
You can twist perceptions, reality won't budge
Man, If I had a nickel for every time I ever had to say that myself...
Your perseverance will eventually win ( and usually it turns out to be something so simple in the end).
Forgive me if i missed it, but have you verified that the full face of the pad is aligned and making proper contact?
Icetech
Well-Known Member
k.. was doing searching and this is from a moparts thread 16 years ago.. guy had 700psi at the calipers but 1000-1200 at the MC...
"Finally got some time to wrench on the brakes. I bought a simple T for the front brakes to bypass the distribution block. Put a couple of new fittings and bam...1000 psi at the calipers, 1100 on the second push. Drove it and could not believe the difference!
It stops with the same amount of effort in a new car with power brakes."
What i don't get is the distro block is just a T... unless he was calling a p-valve a distro block.. doubt the guy is around anymore.. but gonna see if i can find a T and try it anyway...
"Finally got some time to wrench on the brakes. I bought a simple T for the front brakes to bypass the distribution block. Put a couple of new fittings and bam...1000 psi at the calipers, 1100 on the second push. Drove it and could not believe the difference!
What i don't get is the distro block is just a T... unless he was calling a p-valve a distro block.. doubt the guy is around anymore.. but gonna see if i can find a T and try it anyway...
Glad you figured it out.
You could buy a 73 up combination valve and plumb it in the way the factory did
Icetech
Well-Known Member
it's not figured out yet, and it's plumbed how the factory did right now
So it's plumbed like a 73 now?
Icetech
Well-Known Member
no.. it's plumbed like a 62... there is no need for a combination valve (i'm actually reading up on it now) it also wouldn't fix my low pressure issue..
My money is the "t" is interconnected to all ports not seperated front and rear
If you do use a 73 combo valve you will remove the proportioning valve you installed.
Icetech
Well-Known Member
i literally took the block out tonight and checked it, front and rear aren't connected and it's drilled properly.. and i should get rid of my prop valve to pay another 80 to 120 to add a prop valve? not arguing with you, just doesn't make sense
But you have converted your car to have a 73 braking system, why wouldn't you plumb it like a 73 rather than plumb it like 62
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