Quick, easy, free, and may help you get the power to the ground.
Interesting, I actually added clamps to the rear section of my leaf springs (previously had none, homemade bastard pack) and it seemed to help keep the rear flatter in hard cornering and supposedly gets rid of the rear axle hop in hard braking but haven't tested that yet. I read about adding rear clamps in a book I have "How to Make Your Muscle Car Handle"...
@jos51700 they have a free app on your phone for that now it's called "Tinder"
Quick, easy, free, and may help you get the power to the ground.
Quick, easy, free, and may help you get the power to the ground.
LOL.... thanks for the input. Yes, there are devices that work much better than traction (slapper) bars. I won't argue about traction bars. I'll say if you have normal radial street tires and an open rear end, traction bars for a fact help and are budget friendly. I've proven it personally many times.Now take the traction bars OFF too!!! they're useless on Mopars..!
The pinion snubber is only needed to hold the shop door open. I'd rather run a slapper bar snug against the spring eye IF I had to. super stock springs with 14" slicks does the trick !Now take the traction bars OFF too!!! they're useless on Mopars..my duster with nothing more then h.d. factory springs,cheap race shocks,the clamps removed like shown and a pinion snubber low 1.40's 60'!!!
I have that same set up and I wonder sometimes about the way I have them set up a half inch from touching. Of course with the SS Springs I have to put an extra 1 in extension brace on the right side to bring the stopper up higher. I always think I'm going to get a little bit of Street Comfort by keeping them down a little bit. But I wonder if it's the recoil action that I'm feeling that's getting a bit of a hop sometimes?The pinion snubber is only needed to hold the shop door open. I'd rather run a slapper bar snug against the spring eye IF I had to. super stock springs with 14" slicks does the trick !
SS springs will get set up differently than stock springs.I have that same set up and I wonder sometimes about the way I have them set up a half inch from touching. Of course with the SS Springs I have to put an extra 1 in extension brace on the right side to bring the stopper up higher. I always think I'm going to get a little bit of Street Comfort by keeping them down a little bit. But I wonder if it's the recoil action that I'm feeling that's getting a bit of a hop sometimes?
The pinion snubber is only needed to hold the shop door open. I'd rather run a slapper bar snug against the spring eye IF I had to. super stock springs with 14" slicks does the trick !
Hey it's Colonel Flagg... where have you been?LOL. Ain't that the truth. The single most worthless traction device. Ever.
LOL. Ain't that the truth. The single most worthless traction device. Ever.
This is going to be good... Colonel Flagg totally hates it when someone disagrees with him......1.40's 60' IN A "STREET CAR"..useless I think not..traction bars=useless!!!
This is going to be good... Colonel Flagg totally hates it when someone disagrees with him......
^^^ COLONEL FLAGG!!?? Why did you quote me? It was 340stroking that was disagreeing with you... I just let him know that's not a good thing to do...You can disagree all you want. The pinion snubber was junk while it was on paper.
Lots of mouths on here claim **** I've never seen.
I doubt you can go to any track around the country and find a 1.4 60 foot car with a pinion snubber that wouldn't pick up a tenth or more if you put something on there worth a ****.
Just a FACT.
I'm sorry I did quote fishermans67 on his take on the traction bars, but that was about it... And it was sincere..the fight over traction bars.... was that one of the 3 tips I gave???? LOL
naw.... stroked 340 got the ball a roll'n... LOL It's all cool....I'm sorry I did quote fishermans67 on his take on the traction bars, but that was about it... And it was sincere..