Always considered "bolt-ins/ons" to be the Big-4, Carb/Intake/Cam/Headers, since I was a pre-'teen. There were no killer heads to bolt onto anything, W2's for a SB, but I didn't know anyone personally who'd even seen a set back then...at least not in person. Now.....whole different ballgame, and yet I see people complaining there's not as much/it costs too much vs Chebby junk, get over it & be glad there actually ARE the bolt-ons to do a WAY over 300hp 'teener.
300 HP out of a 318, is it possible with bolt ons?
- Thread starter madjak.06
- Start date
-
I can agree with that. It's like Mike was sayin, if you include camshafts as a "bolt on", where does it stop? Cylinder heads too? I would say yes to the heads maybe if "all you had" was a short block.
missing linc
Loose nut behind the wheel
I don't have any numbers for comparison but I took a fresh .030 over stock 318 that I pulled out of a Dodge Aspen wagon, purchased from an insurance company salvage auction and dropped it into a 1970 Dart GT, drove it like that, with the 2 bbl and original 1970 points ignition until it popped a head gasket. Then I put on a pair of 340J heads and matching cast iron intake with a big old thermoquad of unknown origin. If that thing didn't make 300 hp, it had to be damn close, night and day difference, even with stock exhaust manifolds it still went like a raped ape!
she doesn't even need a light.
michiganpat
Well-Known Member
magnum heads, 4bbl, headers, and a cam in the 212-218@.050 range should get you there and still be plenty streetable.
michiganpat
Well-Known Member
suppose I should qualify that as at the flywheel. 300 HP at the rear wheels would be more like 360 gross at the flywheel, which might still be possible with a stock short block, headers, something like an RPM air gap, magnum heads, and a cam in the 224@.050 range. this is a good, but older article: https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/mopp-0409-318-engine-build/
personally, I'd just start with an '85-up roller or magnum engine, and look at doing a reground roller cam. it allows for more aggressive ramps, and longer .200" duration for the same amount of .050 duration, getting more air in while also giving better street manners and low end...
personally, I'd just start with an '85-up roller or magnum engine, and look at doing a reground roller cam. it allows for more aggressive ramps, and longer .200" duration for the same amount of .050 duration, getting more air in while also giving better street manners and low end...
i see this motor build referenced time to time-- in fact it was mentioned up thread and i commented on it-- and what people fail to realize is that while yes, it is a stout piece, don't just look at the lofty numbers. look at where the power is made 4000~6000 rpm
i've built this motor, exactly this motor, twice. if i was looking for 300hp and a nice street driver, this isn't where i'd start, especially on a budget.
michiganpat
Well-Known Member
the engine I built about 15 years ago for my 5th avenue was the stock block, reringed with moly rings, thin MP head gaskets, magnum heads with a fresh 3 angle valve job that I did some bowl porting and gasket matching, 600 cfm edelbrock on an RPM air gap, hedman headers, stock magnum lifters and rockers, and had the LA roller cam reground by bullet cams to their HR256/326 on the intake (256 adv/205@.050/128@.2) and I can't remember what lobe on the exhaust, maybe the HR267/325, and that engine ran GOOD. IIRC the stock LSA on the factory cam was 112, I think I installed it 4-6 degrees advanced (106-108 ICL)...can't remember what springs, maybe hughes 1110? I remember I limited my lift so I didn't have to have extra machining done either on the valve guides, or it was a limit I could handle before coil bind....it was a long time ago....anyway, that engine had great street manners and power from off idle to about 5500 RPM, and ran as strong as the stock long block 360 with the same induction system and a comp XE262 flat tappet, which it replaced, but got another 5mpg....
if I remember right, the .2" lift duration of that roller lobe was actually the same or a few degrees bigger than the XE262.
Be ALOT quicker than doing a straight 8 vehicle !!!
I Don't think that the year of the engine makes any difference as far as the compression height goes as all of the replacement pistons are the same. I've never seen a selection of pistons for a particular year engine.
300 horsepower at the flywheel put your car in the high 11's? That's roughly 240 - 255 to the ground. What gear ratio and stall speed converter did you have? I've been told that it takes 300+ horsepower at the wheels to get out of the 12's. But I don't know this as a fact.
Back in the day, we all considered bolt ons to be a 2 barrel to a 4 barrel swap, better air cleaner assembly, headers and true dual exhaust, electronic ignition conversion and a curve kit along with better rotor, cap, wires and plugs. We also would relocate the coil to help keep it cool. Also cool cans were sometimes used. Some guys would even take the carburetor apart and deburr the inside and remove the choke horn. We was all kids Back then working were ever and so we had to get our cars to run as good as we could with what we had. One guy even put a torque converter from a powerglide in his turbo 350 as that was a poor man's stall converter. We had loads of fun and never had a fortune in our cars. What was cool too is that everyone helped everyone it didn't matter what brand of car you had.
dirty white boy
50 yr old Juvenal delinquent
well,..depends!! 300 hp wil get a 2800 lb car in to 11s, but a 3600 lb car gonna need more hp! wallace has a calculator to figure your power to weight ratio....DWB
read the rest of the thread, it's all in there.
4.xx gears and a monster stall with a bunch of tire, and a very well tuned chassis, along with a good driver.
Sounds like a good combination
waldune
Active Member
Idk if you’ll see this, but this thread helped me start my build, ended up with 920 heads (pretty much identical closed chamber heads to 302s just ever so slightly smaller valves that don’t get shrouded and they move more air) and same mods as you just dif brands and I’m sure dif cam specs but the one thing I have done is use KB167 flat tops, they come up to almost 0 deck instead of sitting in the hole if you have 302 heads, if you’re running open chamber get KB399’s. They’re cast, and light and will hold up to whatever a normal person is throwing at a 318, theyre pop ups in OEM style that came in certain special 340’s just with a different bore, I did notch it ever so slightly where the spark plug it but I personally don’t have clearance issues with them although everyone here cursed me out for making a post asking if it was possible a couple days ago and figured I’d use the original heads instead of the 66/7 ones. Hub dyno came to 352HP 386lb/ft on the graph printout from after I finished it I just wanted to know because it was way rowdier than I thought it would be I guess the high compression plus a quench pad that’s helps control pinging is just letting me rip this cheap work of shed built greatness. Tbh I never checked crank or rod clearances because I didn’t have plastic age and normally use a micrometer anyway but it runs awesome so yay! But yea the 318 I’ve got which is super fun in the dodge aspen RT I have cost next to nothing and I encourage literally anyone who wants to start getting into muscle cars to go for a 318 build. So easy and the block itself or entire running engine for a couple hundred dollars tops! I’m an A body guy with f body pockets but what I have realized is that the 318 can do everything a 340 can do minus idk like 5%. Really good deal since they go running for 100 dollars or less.One day I'll take the time to port the heads, find some hypereutectics, steeper cam, all the goodies!!! Thanks for everyone's responses, for now I'll continue to shoot for 270-300 HP at the crank
waldune
Active Member
I’m my experience a street car that can cruise at highway speed at a low rpm typically do need some big power like that to get out of the twelves but I’m willing to bet with some good gearing and a light car it’s not a problem with much less power than that even. Built NA 4 cylinder
MOPAROFFICIAL
If it has tits, it's a liabilititty.
This reminds me of another poster we have... something like ..340 hot rod.. something like that.
Bunch of run ons and gibbericle suckatash
Bunch of run ons and gibbericle suckatash
i say, i say, the boy has big wishes in little britches. Yap-yap-yap, keep that mouth flappin' and do no listenin'!
Didn't you say you were an engine builder in your other thread? I find it hard to believe you wouldn't have micrometers or even plastigauge on hand while assembling an engine if that's the case.
Can you share some more details on this 318 that went 352hp on a hub dyno? I got kb167s & 920 heads but the post is a bit hard to read
ir3333
Well-Known Member
352 hp and 386 ft. lbs at what rpm. A cammed small block will be soft at low rpm.
Whatever happened to that young fella with the single wide trailer in Alabamy and his stroker small block sitting there where the coffee table would be he claimed it had 3million hp and it was a four and a quarter inch stroke small block..okay 318 shave heads .050,X heads from 340 or 2.02 J, 268/470 cam, 340 manifolds early style...
i can say that i'm an astronaut. that don't mean i've been to space.
this dude is clown shoes. i wouldn't believe word one he says until he can post up some verifiable proof.
he was talking 450~500 hp from a 318 with cam that was sub .500 lift... now that's a trick i'd like see.
missing linc
Loose nut behind the wheel
My side hustle is gynecologist! The things I have seen!
Dartswinger70
Well-Known Member
My thoughts on 300 horse with a 318. Uncle Tony tried bolt ons but never dynoed it and didn't show a timeslip when he raced Casper.
A Uncle Tony spin off is the MI 318 and they are doing more than just bolt ons for the HP its for a reason.
lunar outlaws 318 had uncle Tonys hands on it was a complete fail and if I recall correctly dynoed at 235 HP at Nicks garage which is what a stock pre 70s 318 is rated. That Engine had Uncle Tonys "port work" done to it.
A Uncle Tony spin off is the MI 318 and they are doing more than just bolt ons for the HP its for a reason.
lunar outlaws 318 had uncle Tonys hands on it was a complete fail and if I recall correctly dynoed at 235 HP at Nicks garage which is what a stock pre 70s 318 is rated. That Engine had Uncle Tonys "port work" done to it.
-
Similar threads
- Locked
- Locked
