318 covid 19 build

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furrystump

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So, due to being able to put hundreds of hours into my 68 fastback project. I’m WAY ahead of schedule. Which may create an issue. The plan was to move the short block from the race car over and build a new “serious” short block for the race car. I have the closed chamber eddy heads/airgap/race demon to put on the new project. So here’s the question. I have the original 318 from the car. How bad would the 318 perform. I would just check the bottom end and I think the best parts I have in my stash for it would be a stock 340 intake, the eddy closed chambers, a stock 68 340 auto cam and the original 68 340 carb. It would have either 340 exhaust manifolds or headers. It would cost me a gasket set. What do you think teeners?
 
another recent thread on building 318's...… :) Keep 'em coming! I think ValiantRacing's 318 is running 11.7's in street form, that's better than some 410 strokers on this site
 
another recent thread on building 318's...… :) Keep 'em coming! I think ValiantRacing's 318 is running 11.7's in street form, that's better than some 410 strokers on this site
Since I have the slowest stroker on the internet, I'm very curious to what street Form you're talking about??
 
Since I have the slowest stroker on the internet, I'm very curious to what street Form you're talking about??
I don't remember all the details, but his cam is less than .500 lift, runs on pump gas, and I believe either 3.91 gears or 4.10's.
 
I think the 318 is just fine to build.
It’s only OE stock short comings are low compression, small cylinder bore and small head ports.
Low compression can be fixed if one was willing to go there.
Heads can be ported or swapped.
The smallish cylinder bore isn’t the end of the world.
It’s just like every other engine.
They can run and run well.

IF I was to do one again, I’d shoot for the biggest bore it can safely handle. Then just have a go at it.
 
I don't remember all the details, but his cam is less than .500 lift, runs on pump gas, and I believe either 3.91 gears or 4.10's.
Yet another one of those tens on five shock statements... Where it sounds amazing but there's so many underlying real truths that aren't told...:rolleyes:...
 
Yet another one of those tens on five shock statements... Where it sounds amazing but there's so many underlying real truths that aren't told...:rolleyes:...
He created a thread on it outlining the details..... read about it yourself
318 time slip
 
If the short block is sound it should be a fun little motor with what you have. If you put the Eddie on I'd find a Performer, Action Plus, or the likes. Nothing against the stoker but it just seems odd to have aluminum head and an iron intake. But you won't know until you strip it down to the short block.
 
I think the biggest issue we fell back on (years ago) is that if it motor need a rebuild it's almost a wash as far a cost to build a 318 as it is a 360 or a 408. The machine work cost were virtually the same. Remember the line... There is no replacement for displacement. Well today it just doesn't ring as true anymore. A 318 is a perfectly fine example. If she's solid, use her (depending on usage requirements). But my brain still says. If I have to bore, buy pistons and everything around that (to meet my track needs) then I'm not going to bother. I'd go 340 because our track runs 1/8th mile, or I'd go 408 because we throw in a few north and south of our border runs which are 1/4 mile. But that's just me and 40 years of hobbyist racing, building and enjoying the $hit out of the sport. I'm no professional. Oh, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express once and I think I read a Hod Rod magazine once way back in the 70's.
:lol:
 
I disagree somewhat. While the machining costs are the same, the parts selection can sky rocket over a simple piston upgrade vs a 408 or plus size engine.

In addition to the cylinder heads, a 318 can perform well with its stock heads or a mild work up but not so with a stroker. If you out stock OE heads on a stroker with the same amount of upgrades work as on the 318, you wouldn’t have a performing 408, you would have something closer to a Cummings.

If your not putting the minimum of well ported Edelbrock heads, IMO, your wasting time IMO and throwing away a ton of power and performance.
 
If the bottom end is solid go for it. Any specs on the proposed 340 cam? I think too many people are too negative on the 318 because 340’s and 360’s have more displacement and naturally make more power. 318’s are considered throw aways.
 
The '68 318 factory pistons were supposedly much higher up in the bore than '71 or '72 and later smog 318's; I think George Jets has documented that info on this subforum. If correct, then your static compression ratio will be purty good with those Eddie heads like up around 9.3-9.4 with a Felpro 1008 head gasket, the closed chamber Eddie's (PN 60779) and pistons down around .005" below the deck. DCR would be in the high 7's with a 268-ish cam; darned good for a stock 318 bottom end.

Check the compression height on those early 318 pistons if out, or check how far they are down in the hole at TDC if still assembled. I hope you will be pleasantly surprised. Let us know what you find there.

I would not worry 1 second over the bigger breathing in and out parts if the compression is as I believe... the cam is going to control things.
 
I think the 318 is just fine to build.
It’s only OE stock short comings are low compression, small cylinder bore and small head ports.
Low compression can be fixed if one was willing to go there.
Heads can be ported or swapped.
The smallish cylinder bore isn’t the end of the world.
It’s just like every other engine.
They can run and run well.

IF I was to do one again, I’d shoot for the biggest bore it can safely handle. Then just have a go at it.
yep, i'm getting my spare 318 block bored 60 over (3.970) to get me a 327. only 30 thou' off the majical 4" 360 bore everyone raves about :thumbsup:
neil.
 
If the short block is sound it should be a fun little motor with what you have. If you put the Eddie on I'd find a Performer, Action Plus, or the likes. Nothing against the stoker but it just seems odd to have aluminum head and an iron intake. But you won't know until you strip it down to the short block.
I have an airgap for 340/360 on the shelf, but didn’t want to overwhelm the 318. The cam specs I think are
“Automatic-equipped Barracudas employ a hydraulic cam with 268/276-degrees advertised duration and .429/.444-inch lift.”
If the bores look ok I would just check/change bearings. Throw an oil pump in maybe. This would just be a temporary motor.
 
It’s still all together sitting on a stand. When I bought the car I was told it would run. At the time I didn’t care. I will definitely measure how far they are in the hole.
 
He created a thread on it outlining the details..... read about it yourself
318 time slip
Yes as you recall I found that thread 10 months after you were quoting me to death all over the thread. let's read ended on me asking why everybody isn't doing 11 second quarter miles with their 318? Pretty much ending the thread... nothing like free promotion for someone who builds engines... Why hasn't any of your three teens done 11 second quarter mile and your Duster? Can't you tune good enough? LOL.... When I asked you about Street trim you claimed not to know the details but yet you could quickly quote the thread and give a link to it.... he posted the time slip and then slow posted one little detail at a time not really revealing much of anything.. and certainly never said anything about Street trim... Probably why you can't recall...
Blind squirrel completely answered the reason I went with a 360 instead of my 318... At the time I was having the machine work done the 318 pistons cost $200 more to do all the same work. My machine shop sold me a 360 block for $150. 20 more cubic inches for $50 less... Ok....
I'm wondering why you put the new Speedmaster heads on the 360 and not the 318?...:D...
 
Yes as you recall I found that thread 10 months after you were quoting me to death all over the thread. let's read ended on me asking why everybody isn't doing 11 second quarter miles with their 318? Pretty much ending the thread... nothing like free promotion for someone who builds engines... Why hasn't any of your three teens done 11 second quarter mile and your Duster? Can't you tune good enough? LOL.... When I asked you about Street trim you claimed not to know the details but yet you could quickly quote the thread and give a link to it.... he posted the time slip and then slow posted one little detail at a time not really revealing much of anything.. and certainly never said anything about Street trim... Probably why you can't recall...
Blind squirrel completely answered the reason I went with a 360 instead of my 318... At the time I was having the machine work done the 318 pistons cost $200 more to do all the same work. My machine shop sold me a 360 block for $150. 20 more cubic inches for $50 less... Ok....
I'm wondering why you put the new Speedmaster heads on the 360 and not the 318?...:D...
this was a 318 vs 360 conversation ??? :realcrazy: My, how quickly you turn the tied. Anyways, my 318 doesn't have ported eddy heads, high quality pistons, that size of cam, high quality converter, 430 gears, and the vehicle doesn't weigh 2950 lbs. If I had those things, I'd probably run an 11.65 - :poke:
 
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I posted this on the other 318 build thread:

Back in the 80's I blew up my good 340. Because I was in the points program I found a bone stock 73 low compression 318 short block out of a rusted out Duster, and added the top end from my 340, pocket ported 2.02 heads, Street Hemi grind cam, Torker II intake, 750 carb, and 1 3/4 headers. That combo ran solid 13's with 3.91 gears and kept me in the class. I later upgraded to a new 360 short block when I had some money and it ended up running high 12's.

I would say go for it, what do you have to lose?
 
I posted this on the other 318 build thread:

Back in the 80's I blew up my good 340. Because I was in the points program I found a bone stock 73 low compression 318 short block out of a rusted out Duster, and added the top end from my 340, pocket ported 2.02 heads, Street Hemi grind cam, Torker II intake, 750 carb, and 1 3/4 headers. That combo ran solid 13's with 3.91 gears and kept me in the class. I later upgraded to a new 360 short block when I had some money and it ended up running high 12's.

I would say go for it, what do you have to lose?
Sounds like a "real" abody...
 
If I had those things, I'd probably run an 11.65 - :poke:
Toke.gif
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