318 edelbrock intake install ( round two)

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moparkrazed

moparkrazed

Moparkrazed
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Hey guys. I installed a 4 barrel intake on my 318. I used the intake gaskets that lay against the head that edlebrock recommended. They are pretty thick. I didn’t use the cork gaskets that lay at the front and back, just used rtv. Car runs great and is fun to drive but I’m leaking oil pretty badly out the back of the intake. So I have to do it again. Would it be ok to use the metal intake gaskets (stock) or would that cause an issue for some reason. I’m going back and forth on using the cork gaskets for the front and rear seal and loading them up with rtv because I really don’t want to do this a third time. Any feedback would be appreciated.
 
You need a good "How to rebuild your small block mopar book." It will instruct you properly
 
It WILL be less expensive in the long run to simply buy another set of gaskets.

Some people use the end gaskets and some people use RTV or other sealer

Make certain you have removed the pins across the front and back if present, and if the intake has no recess holes to accept them

I dislike metal gaskets. If you use them at least use sealer on the front and back holes which are the water ports

If you don't use the cork end gaskets, lay a nice bead front/ rear, sit the intake down carefully, and snug it down, then "finger' a smooth bead along the block/ intake and check carefully there are no gaps. Do NOT be tempted to run the engine until you allow enough time for that to cure
 
TF360 said:
You need a good "How to rebuild your small block mopar book." It will instruct you properly
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I’ve got one TF, but it doesn’t cover aftermarket intakes. I installed the 2 bbl intake that was in it prior and didn’t have issues, just decided to install and 4bbl edelbrock. Edelbrock says not to use cork gaskets and says to use their intake to head gaskets, but they are thicker than the stock metal one. Just seeing if anyone else that’s installed an edelbrock intake had issues using the thinner gasket. Can’t imagine an issue but nice to hear from others before diving in head first.
 
67Dart273 said:
It WILL be less expensive in the long run to simply buy another set of gaskets.

Some people use the end gaskets and some people use RTV or other sealer

Make certain you have removed the pins across the front and back if present, and if the intake has no recess holes to accept them

I dislike metal gaskets. If you use them at least use sealer on the front and back holes which are the water ports

If you don't use the cork end gaskets, lay a nice bead front/ rear, sit the intake down carefully, and snug it down, then "finger' a smooth bead along the block/ intake and check carefully there are no gaps. Do NOT be tempted to run the engine until you allow enough time for that to cure
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Thanks. I did run across some blue felt feeling gaskets. May use those instead. I made sure to hit those water ports and will make sure to do that again to be safe. I’ll prob put it together tomorrow and fire it off tomorrow night or Monday sometime. Not in a huge rush. Thanks for the help.
 
Hey Steve,hope all is good... I bet you get it right this time....just remember since going from 2 to 4 barrel the geometry changes with height of intake on the throttle linkage and passing gear kickdown....its possible to modify yours....if not they make a cable that does it...good luck with car and if you need me I'm at the house...
 
Mtrhead said:
Hey Steve,hope all is good... I bet you get it right this time....just remember since going from 2 to 4 barrel the geometry changes with height of intake on the throttle linkage and passing gear kickdown....its possible to modify yours....if not they make a cable that does it...good luck with car and if you need me I'm at the house...
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Hey bud! How are you and the fam? All good here. Took it for a ride and love it. Got the brackets to work. It’s not that difficult to do but definitely not looking forward to do it again haha. Next time will get it done I’m sure. Have everything laid out and ready to go. Need to swing it by ur house to check out, not like you are that far away. :)
 
I just use the over-the-counter fel pro intake gaskets, like 19 bucks. With aluminum intakes, I run a thick bead of Black RTV max oil resistant by permatex, like 3/8 thick on the china walls and extra on the corners. No leaks.
 
318willrun said:
I just use the over-the-counter fel pro intake gaskets, like 19 bucks. With aluminum intakes, I run a thick bead of Black RTV max oil resistant by permatex, like 3/8 thick on the china walls and extra on the corners. No leaks.
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I’ll give that a shot. I out a ton of silicone on the China walls but it was 12,000 degrees out the day I did it and the rtv was sitting in the sun and became pretty runny so I’m sure that didn’t help. I have some blue (prob fel pro) gaskets along with 2 sets of metal gaskets. I’ll prob use the blue ones and see if I can put a dab of super glue on the gasket to hold It in place. Figure it can’t hurt to make sure the gasket doesn’t move.
 
318willrun said:
I just use the over-the-counter fel pro intake gaskets, like 19 bucks. With aluminum intakes, I run a thick bead of Black RTV max oil resistant by permatex, like 3/8 thick on the china walls and extra on the corners. No leaks.
Click to expand...
Do u out the rtv on the intake and block? Or just the block?
 
318willrun said:
I just use the over-the-counter fel pro intake gaskets, like 19 bucks. With aluminum intakes, I run a thick bead of Black RTV max oil resistant by permatex, like 3/8 thick on the china walls and extra on the corners. No leaks.
Click to expand...

318willrun said:
Just the block on the china walls, and around the water jackets.
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All of this.....you won’t have any problems.
 
67dartgtgo said:
All of this.....you won’t have any problems.
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Awesome. I think my problems stem from the thick intake to head gasket and not enough rtv on China walls. Hoping this time around it will seal up and can ride around without repelling mosquitoes at the same time (I’m exaggerating a little). :)
 
I used black as 318willrun has said, it’s oil resistant and better at the China walls where oil can reach it. Yes...get it as clean as possible and line the valley with rags to catch anything that might fall. You’ll be happy you did. You can bend a razor blade at a 45* angle which gives you a little hande to use as you scrape the old rtv off.
 
67dartgtgo said:
I used black as 318willrun has said, it’s oil resistant and better at the China walls where oil can reach it. Yes...get it as clean as possible and line the valley with rags to catch anything that might fall. You’ll be happy you did. You can bend a razor blade at a 45* angle which gives you a little hande to use as you scrape the old rtv off.
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Awesome. Still not looking forward to it but feeling better that I did everything correctly, just jacked up the rtv by not putting enough in. Thanks for the help guys. And thanks for the rag tip 67. Appreciate you guys.
 
You have a healthy sounding 318 I know you will enjoy it...1970 /318 with 1968 /340/4speed cam with eddy intake and 4barrel nice receipe anyday.......you might destroy rear end soon Haha. If you do I have some sure-grip 8.75 rears...
 
Mtrhead said:
You have a healthy sounding 318 I know you will enjoy it...1970 /318 with 1968 /340/4speed cam with eddy intake and 4barrel nice receipe anyday.......you might destroy rear end soon Haha. If you do I have some sure-grip 8.75 rears...
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Haha I don’t see my rear end lasting long after the couple trips I had around town. That’s the next thing I’m saving for but not sure I can afford an 8.75. But it would be awesome to have an 8.75 with suregrip!
 
Like @318willrun said, it takes a 3/8" diameter of black RTV. I used "The Right Stuff" the last time. No leaks.

3/8" seems like a lot, but that's what it takes. Don't smooth it out with your finger, just lay it down.
 
66fyssh said:
Like @318willrun said, it takes a 3/8" diameter of black RTV. I used "The Right Stuff" the last time. No leaks.

3/8" seems like a lot, but that's what it takes. Don't smooth it out with your finger, just lay it down.
Click to expand...
I think what hurt me was I used gray and it was really runny from sitting on my tailgate all day. I think using the black and building it up more will help me. Thanks 66
 
Without gaskets, lay the intake in place, use a magic maker and trace the ends of the intake on your china walls. Give a bit of a road map.

Also look how the bottom of your intake is machined. The pass front area can be a problem area as well as the sealing surface sometimes cuts back from the actual edge. Make sure you get coverage where is actually seals.

As you found out, don't leave RTV in the sun.
 
Helps to set the intake down on to the engine slowly with a cherry picker or over head hoist so you can carefully set it on straight and square.

An experienced 2nd set of hands can help guide it down into position too.

20210728_004827.jpg


These Felpro 1243 intake gaskets fit up to the 318 head ports size nicely too.

20210801_003912.jpg


Disregard the cork gaskets for the china wall and use the Black Gasket Maker.

20210719_135904.jpg
 
are you sure its the intake gasket and not the oil pressure sender or line/fitting?
 
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