318 Power, with real street manners ?

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I have no payed with a few 318’s before. The trick to mileage and performance (with no goal listed) would be a cam under 220@.050 and well prepped heads. I would certainly go right to a 2-1/2 exhaust after the headers.

Without porting the heads & dealing with the stock pistons with there low ratio, a cam at 214@.050 would be a better fit than anything larger.

If 14’s in the 1/4 are OK with acceptable 17/18 mpg, then that s is the type of set up your looking at.

600 cfm
Dual plane
Well prepped heads
Headers into 2-1/2 exhaust
stock converter/3.23 gears on stock tires. If you increase the be tire diameter to 26-26-1/2 inches, you can move to 3.55’s without much in the way of a penalty and pick up time in the 1/4.
(Better traction and torque release.)
 
rustytoolss said:
Not looking for 20+mpg, but don't want to feed something that get 10mpg or less. Would like to take it to the track a couple times a season. But don't plan to spend every weekend their (done that long ago/ no more).
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Well then a big Solid lifter FT with matching compression,will really make it easy. Lunati makes one I got my eye on. Someone said to put some money in the heads, and that could be worth one or two cam sizes.
I like the 220 or less idea, especially with fastramps.
 
I built one many years ago with that got 17.75 MPG and had decent performance... The Warren, MI police can back that up.... [Don't ask...]

I have another one going together right now that should be close...
 
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AJ/FormS said:
Well then a big Solid lifter FT with matching compression,will really make it easy. Lunati makes one I got my eye on. Someone said to put some money in the heads, and that could be worth one or two cam sizes.
I like the 220 or less idea, especially with fastramps.
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Unfortunately that engine and car went away to soon. House before toys! I never did get to finish fooling around with it.

A small primary TQ would be excellent.
 
rustytoolss said:
I do have a set of stock rebuilt 302 heads. And a set of 3.23 gears.
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use a small port intake with them 302s and a good thermoquad or Q-jet, a low rpm/towing cam with good quench to be able to run pump gas at 10.5 to 1 compression! good exhaust and gear it right and youll have a torquey motor that you can afford to feed and should do better that 14! need to build motor for torque to move 3600+ driver!!!
 
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My 318 ran a best of 13.54 in good air shifting at 4800. It typically ran 13.7’s
Bone stock 1969 318 Block. Never bored. Stock factory 69 pistons & rods. Crank turned .010 under. Block had a ridge in each cylinder. Cut the ridge out & new rings & bearing (iron rings) file fit.
Heads where bone stock 1972 360 heads with the 1.88 intake. All I did was lap the valves. No porting or guide work. MOPAR Performance springs with dampener. MOPAR .455 lift cam. 218/222 duration. MOPAR double roller timing set. Swap meet $50 Eddy CH4B intake. Did nothing to it. Eddy 600 carb. Never took the air horn off it. 904 trans with Chetta manual V/B & Kevlar bands. TCI deep pan. Cheapo Advance Auto ATF, Stock 1969 converter, 8 3/4 rear with a 4.10 & spool.
The car is where I spent some money.
1969 Satellite that was under 2900 pounds wet. 10 gallon fuel cell. 5 quarts of oil in stock oil pan. 29X10.5 Hoosier bias tires. VW Tire’s up front. The car has an all fiberglass front, custom tin dash, glass rear bumper, all factory glass except Lexan 1/4 windows. Nearly every bolt on the car was shortened & rifled.
I probably should have shifted at 5500. The few times I did it ran a tenth quicker. I was just worried I hurt the junk yard motor with 40 year old pistons.
 
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early A Bob said:
View attachment 1715152938 View attachment 1715152939 View attachment 1715152940 My 318 ran a best of 13.54 in good air shifting at 4800. It typically ran 13.7’s
Bone stock 1969 318 Block. Never bored. Stock factory 69 pistons & rods. Crank turned .010 under. Block had a ridge in each cylinder. Cut the ridge out & new rings & bearing (iron rings) file fit.
Heads where bone stock 1972 360 heads with the 1.88 intake. All I did was lap the valves. No porting or guide work. MOPAR Performance springs with dampener. MOPAR .455 lift cam. 218/222 duration. MOPAR double roller timing set. Swap meet $50 Eddy CH4B intake. Did nothing to it. Eddy 600 carb. Never took the air horn off it. 904 trans with Chetta manual V/B & Kevlar bands. TCI deep pan. Cheapo Advance Auto ATF, Stock 1969 converter, 8 3/4 rear with a 4.10 & spool.
The car is where I spent some money.
1969 Satellite that was under 2900 pounds wet. 10 calling fuel cell. 5 quarts of oil in stock oil pan. 29X10.5 Hoosier bias tires. VW Tire’s up front. The car has an all fiberglass front, custom tin dash, glass rear bumper, all factory glass except Lexan 1/4 windows. Nearly every bolt on the car was shortened & rifled.
I probably should have shifted at 5500. The few times I did it ran a tenth quicker. I was just worried I hurt the junk yard motor with 40 year old pistons.
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You Sir have got things figured out !
 
Should be able to get there with a pretty simple low-buck combo. Basic rebuilt short block with KB167 pistons, zero deck. 302 heads with 1.88/1.60 valves, bowl blend and gasket match. Comp XE262H cam. Eddy LD4B or Weiand intake. 600 CFM carb of choice. Large outlet magnum exhaust manifolds or 1 5/8 headers. This should make an honest cheap MPG friendly 300 horsepower.

A larger cam like the XE268H would make a little more power, but if you are running a tight converter and the wide ratio gearset you want a broad torque curve.

If this combo doesn't get you into the low 14's, try making the 3600 pound car into a 3200 pound car.
 
Seriously, mid 14's is really noth'n for these engines. I gave one example in a earlier post of a basically stock 360 4bbl with stock manifolds, 2.45 gears going 14.14. Here is another example of a 318 car.

'76 Dart Sport i used to own with 318 build:

318, stock short block with:
  • 360 heads cut .040 and home ported
  • used 340 cam
  • used hedman headers
  • TQ carb and cast intake from a maxi van?
  • Stock 727 w/stock converter
  • 3.21 gears.
14.40's. basically a junk yard build.

3600 lbs makes it a little heavier, but still........
 
early A Bob said:
View attachment 1715152938 View attachment 1715152939 View attachment 1715152940 My 318 ran a best of 13.54 in good air shifting at 4800. It typically ran 13.7’s
Bone stock 1969 318 Block. Never bored. Stock factory 69 pistons & rods. Crank turned .010 under. Block had a ridge in each cylinder. Cut the ridge out & new rings & bearing (iron rings) file fit.
Heads where bone stock 1972 360 heads with the 1.88 intake. All I did was lap the valves. No porting or guide work. MOPAR Performance springs with dampener. MOPAR .455 lift cam. 218/222 duration. MOPAR double roller timing set. Swap meet $50 Eddy CH4B intake. Did nothing to it. Eddy 600 carb. Never took the air horn off it. 904 trans with Chetta manual V/B & Kevlar bands. TCI deep pan. Cheapo Advance Auto ATF, Stock 1969 converter, 8 3/4 rear with a 4.10 & spool.
The car is where I spent some money.
1969 Satellite that was under 2900 pounds wet. 10 calling fuel cell. 5 quarts of oil in stock oil pan. 29X10.5 Hoosier bias tires. VW Tire’s up front. The car has an all fiberglass front, custom tin dash, glass rear bumper, all factory glass except Lexan 1/4 windows. Nearly every bolt on the car was shortened & rifled.
I probably should have shifted at 5500. The few times I did it ran a tenth quicker. I was just worried I hurt the junk yard motor with 40 year old pistons.
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Neat car.

My question is how did you get that 440 intake to work on that small block?

Did you mean the LD4B?

Neat car.
 
Hp is built through a combination of torque and rpm. Since you want very streetable package rpm is out leaving you torque. And basically torque is displacement and how well you fill it "VE". A decent built motor will be around 1.15 - 1.25 lbs-ft per cid.

Now hp, the streetablity you discribed is about 0.9 hp per cid give or take a 0.1.
440 = 396 hp 360 = 324 hp 318 = 286 hp.
If your plan on running under 3.23:1 and low stall you want everything to work right from idle especially if you have a heavier car with small ish displacement. The more stall and gear you add the further away for idle your powerband can start. 1500 rpm to me would be the limit for a streetable package. Basically a powerband between 1000-5000 rpm.

So basically the bigger the engine the more streetable power you can make.
 
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