318 Power, with real street manners ?

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Shouldn't be that hard to figure out a combinations. Mild combos with 215 @ 0.050" and under are hard to screw up. Dual plane 600-750 carb 8.5-9:1 cr duals maybe headers done. Any real serious build find a good builder and come up with a game plan.

Its the mid level ones are a little tricky.
750 airgap and headers are pretty much standard. Leaving heads to be OOTB Eddies or Eq or port stock basically 230-260cfm.
Leaving the only real decision cam cr gear and stall which all have to work as a package. The cam is probably gonna fall between 225 - 235 @ 0.050" . Which is gonna narrow cr to 9-10.5:1 depending on cam and heads. And gearing and stall are gonna be based on a huge amount of factors but most seem to run 3.55 with a 2500 plus stall. Basically we have one combo :)
 
I feel that many hobbiests (newish guys maybe) tends to make the mistake as to not defining their intended use and purpose of their car. Building a car is pretty easy for the all out racer. He pretty well knows what he wants and how to achieve it. Problem lies with the guy that over builds an engine and finds it not suitable for his use, that is street/ open road driving.. not hauling *** on the track every month at full rpms. Too many people get high hp numbers in their head, stroker this, maxed out aftermarket the latest and bestest heads, $2000 trans, etc.
The topic was 318- with street manner.
 
barbee6043 said:
I feel that many hobbiests (newish guys maybe) tends to make the mistake as to not defining their intended use and purpose of their car. Building a car is pretty easy for the all out racer. He pretty well knows what he wants and how to achieve it. Problem lies with the guy that over builds an engine and finds it not suitable for his use, that is street/ open road driving.. not hauling *** on the track every month at full rpms. Too many people get high hp numbers in their head, stroker this, maxed out aftermarket the latest and bestest heads, $2000 trans, etc.
The topic was 318- with street manner.
Click to expand...
The problem with "most" web forums, is that the mindset is "backyard street outlaws". Everyone starts out on topic. But it does not take long before we post things like 4.10 gears,tons of machine work, and high dollar parts (aluminum heads).
My post was to be able to turn a mid 14 second run (maybe twice a year at the track). And would not drive like it's a 10 second race car on the street.And without spending a ton of money to go mid 14 seconds. And if possible , get fair MPG's. After all it is a street car. And they are not much fun if they suck every dollar out of your wallet at the pump. When they get to that point...well you just don't drive them all that much!
And since I have a 318. Should I use it, or find a 360 ? I also will be using a 3.23 rear gear, and a lockup 998 trans.
I've gotten a lot of good information. But easy to get caught up in the "full on 1/4 mile mind set". I understand that. There was a time in my life that was my mind set also.
 
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rustytoolss said:
The problem with "most" web forums, is that the mindset is "backyard street outlaws". Everyone starts out on topic. But it does not take long before we post things like 4.10 gears,tons of machine work, and high dollar parts (aluminum heads).
My post was to be able to turn a mid 14 second run (maybe twice a year at the track). And would not drive like it's a 10 second race car on the street.And without spending a ton of money to go mid 14 seconds.
And since I have a 318. Should I use it, or find a 360 ? I also will be using a 3.23 rear gear, and a lockup 998 trans.
I've gotten a lot of good information. But easy to get caught up in the "full on 1/4 mile mind set". I understand that. There was a time in my life that was my mind set also.
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You said you had a 318, could go 360. 1st page, post 8, I gave an exact recipe of a car i currently have right now that runs very low 14's (will be 13's when i tune) on a very, very low budget and very, very well street mannered. 2.45 gears, stock converter, no headers, idles like a 318 2bbl.
Exactly what you asked for, and 4 pages later we're still asking. Problem isn't always with forums, problem is when somebody gets exactly what they ask for they keep asking, 100% ignoring the an answer to the direct question.

I also have a '74 Duster with a factory assembled short block 318, 318 heads, 2.76 gears, no headers, that goes 14's at about 95 mph.
I don't think this is a forum problem, I think some people want a conversation over their project other than an answer. that's cool too.
enjoy
 
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318willrun said:
You said you had a 318, could go 360. 1st page, post 8, I gave an exact recipe of a car i currently have right now that runs very low 14's (will be 13's when i tune) on a very, very low budget and very, very well street mannered. 2.45 gears, stock converter, no headers, idles like a 318 2bbl.
Exactly what you asked for, and 4 pages later we're still asking. Problem isn't always with forums, problem is when somebody gets exactly what they ask for they keep asking, 100% ignoring the an answer to the direct question.

I also have a '74 Duster with a factory assembled short block 318, 318 heads, 2.76 gears, no headers, that goes 14's at about 95 mph. I spent exactly 496 bucks.
I don't think this is a forum problem, I think some people want a conversation over their project other than an answer. that's cool too.
enjoy
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Your right. I did over look your post. And you did have a comb that would work for me. And I do admit to being impressed with the 318 roadrunner going mid 13's.
It's easy to get caught up in the low ET power game. Even if thats not what you really want or need.
We all have to admit it, even if we don't want to. But the power/ Et game we all play is like CRACK. Once you start it , you can't stop it. And you can never get enough power,speed,low ET. Your are an Addict . For the most part I've beaten the addiction. But it's still like a monkey on my back. Saying,...come on just one more time. Just one more time and we'll be done. But that monkey's always there. So being impressed with a great ET slip is just part of the addiction we all have.
Did not mean to disrespect the post that I've gotten ,thanks to all.
 
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work with what you got, drive it for a couple of years and then if it is not to your liking, you can save up for a couple years and get a different motor then. The 318 motor can make power with some add ons and with an A body it can be alot of fun to drive. Just talk to some member with 318 motors in their cars. The good thing is most of those add ons can be used on a 340 or 360 motor down the road. Just my 2 cents worth.
 
rustytoolss said:
The problem with "most" web forums, is that the mindset is "backyard street outlaws". Everyone starts out on topic. But it does not take long before we post things like 4.10 gears,tons of machine work, and high dollar parts (aluminum heads).
My post was to be able to turn a mid 14 second run (maybe twice a year at the track). And would not drive like it's a 10 second race car on the street.And without spending a ton of money to go mid 14 seconds. And if possible , get fair MPG's. After all it is a street car. And they are not much fun if they suck every dollar out of your wallet at the pump. When they get to that point...well you just don't drive them all that much!
And since I have a 318. Should I use it, or find a 360 ? I also will be using a 3.23 rear gear, and a lockup 998 trans.
I've gotten a lot of good information. But easy to get caught up in the "full on 1/4 mile mind set". I understand that. There was a time in my life that was my mind set also.
Click to expand...
Well, IMO, use the engine you want to use. I have zero issue with the 318 & think that building what you have vs. spending more money on what you don’t have is a winner. While the 318 lacks torque and requires a little more into the build than a larger engine, there really is nothing wrong with the 318.

Mild 14 second car? Depends on if it needs a rebuild or not. No rebuild needed ? Then I would;

600 cfm carb on a dual plane, headers into a 2-1/2 exhaust
(FVtory iron intake and a TQ would do well.)
Excellent ignition
Cam @ .050 of 220 with more exhaust with matching valve springs.
(A good example is the Comp Cams XE268 Hyd. cam. Or similar speced cam.)
2200 stall
Shift kit
3.23 - 3.55 gears
Wide tires

If it needed a rebuild, same as above but the new slugs would be the KB hyperU’s or a forged slug set at or very near zero deck.

Calculate your compression ratio first!

Iron head at NO higher than 9.5-1 will be great.
Then again you could always follow Ma MoPars advice by clicking the below link in my sig area!
 
rumblefish360 said:
Well, IMO, use the engine you want to use. I have zero issue with the 318 & think that building what you have vs. spending more money on what you don’t have is a winner. While the 318 lacks torque and requires a little more into the build than a larger engine, there really is nothing wrong with the 318.
Yeah. I'm sure it would need rebuilt. Was pulled because of internal engine noise. But have not pulled it apart
Mild 14 second car? Depends on if it needs a rebuild or not. No rebuild needed ? Then I would;

600 cfm carb on a dual plane, headers into a 2-1/2 exhaust
(FVtory iron intake and a TQ would do well.)
Excellent ignition
Cam @ .050 of 220 with more exhaust with matching valve springs.
(A good example is the Comp Cams XE268 Hyd. cam. Or similar speced cam.)
2200 stall
Shift kit
3.23 - 3.55 gears
Wide tires

If it needed a rebuild, same as above but the new slugs would be the KB hyperU’s or a forged slug set at or very near zero deck.

Calculate your compression ratio first!

Iron head at NO higher than 9.5-1 will be great.
Then again you could always follow Ma MoPars advice by clicking the below link in my sig area!
Click to expand...
Yeah I'm sure it will need rebuilt. Have not yet pulled it apart yet. If it needs a lot of $$,depending on how much $$ at that point I may $$ ahead to look for a 360/ or maybe a magnum 5.2 or 5.9. But Have not looked a what the "real cost" of buying and converting to a magnum really are...have no idea.
I forgot to mention , my 318 is a roller block/but dose not have the roller cam , or the other roller parts. Not sure what year , just don't remember. It was given to me. But was pulled because of engine noise.
 
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A roller 318? Nice! Stroke it!
If the budget allows of course.
 
No roller cam, no roller rockers, no roller lifters = Not a roller.

Just so you know, There are no "roller" blocks that I know of?
 
Cope said:
No roller cam, no roller rockers, no roller lifters = Not a roller.

Just so you know, There are no "roller" blocks that I know of?
Click to expand...

The blocks that are cast to use roller lifters and has the retainer holes in the lifter valley are called roller blocks. Now you know.
 
Cope said:
No roller cam, no roller rockers, no roller lifters = Not a roller.

Just so you know, There are no "roller" blocks that I know of?
Click to expand...
Sure there is. I have one. It came out of a 85 5th. Avenue.
 
AFAIK, "roller rockers" does not make a "roller motor", a roller cam does.
 
YY1 said:
AFAIK, "roller rockers" does not make a "roller motor", a roller cam does.
Click to expand...
I said it was a roller block/ witout the roller cam and parts. I removed the valve covers. And looked down at the lifter valley web. All of the supports are drilled for the roller parts.
 
I was referring to the post by cope.
 
Don’t the 85-92 roller blocks have some kind of oiling galley changed to accomadate for the taller lifters. Seems like I’ve read that somewhere.
 
early A Bob said:
Don’t the 85-92 roller blocks have some kind of oiling galley changed to accomadate for the taller lifters. Seems like I’ve read that somewhere.
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Though I have not torn mine down. I can see that the valley has holes drilled for additional parts that support the roller lifters.
 
early A Bob said:
Don’t the 85-92 roller blocks have some kind of oiling galley changed to accomadate for the taller lifters. Seems like I’ve read that somewhere.
Click to expand...

The lifter bores are taller so that the oil Groove in the lifters do not become uncovered at the higher lift of the can. Keeping the oil pressure from dropping to zero.
 
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