318 power?

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HP2

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Joined
Nov 19, 2014
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Location
Various places
318 LA block
340 crank
KB pistons
zero decked
10.45:1 CR
Edelbrock 6077 heads, untouched
273 adjustable rockers
MP hyd 292/292 .508/.508 108 LS (I'm not quite sure about the cam but after some measuring and calculation it is my best guess)
Weiand Stealth intake w/ 1" spacer
Quick Fuel 750 dp (best I had)
MP elec dist - limited to 10 deg advance, lightest springs I could find
MSD 6AL
Put it together mostly from parts I already had. Hopefully start up today. Will go into my 71 Duster this weekend.
Car has fiberglass bumpers and hood, rest is original.
MT ET Street 295/55R15
Have a 10" (3.000 stall?) converter. Will look closer when I get there, might have some other I can use.
904 w/ reverse pattern. Not a clue of internals...
8 3/4" 4.10 SG

How much power do you gentlemen think it will make?
What do you think it can do on 1/8-mile?
 
318 LA block
340 crank
KB pistons
zero decked
10.45:1 CR
Edelbrock 6077 heads, untouched
273 adjustable rockers
MP hyd 292/292 .508/.508 108 LS (I'm not quite sure about the cam but after some measuring and calculation it is my best guess)
Weiand Stealth intake w/ 1" spacer
Quick Fuel 750 dp (best I had)
MP elec dist - limited to 10 deg advance, lightest springs I could find
MSD 6AL
Put it together mostly from parts I already had. Hopefully start up today. Will go into my 71 Duster this weekend.
Car has fiberglass bumpers and hood, rest is original.
MT ET Street 295/55R15
Have a 10" (3.000 stall?) converter. Will look closer when I get there, might have some other I can use.
904 w/ reverse pattern. Not a clue of internals...
8 3/4" 4.10 SG

How much power do you gentlemen think it will make?
What do you think it can do on 1/8-mile?

Maybe 375HP, maybe low 8's, high 7's
 
I am guessing closer to 400. We may never know until we see a time slip.
 
I’d give it 400+ if it had a single plane on top.
Otherwise I’m with @JBurch

I don’t know what an 1/8 run would be, but if it is light enough and you get the chassis working and the launch right, a best of mid 12’s in the 1/4. Less as time goes on & things get more and more straightened out for the track.

Speaking strictly of the drag strip…
I think you can use more gear & converter myself.
But this is t a track car is it?
 
318 LA block
340 crank
KB pistons
zero decked
10.45:1 CR
Edelbrock 6077 heads, untouched
273 adjustable rockers
MP hyd 292/292 .508/.508 108 LS (I'm not quite sure about the cam but after some measuring and calculation it is my best guess)
Weiand Stealth intake w/ 1" spacer
Quick Fuel 750 dp (best I had)
MP elec dist - limited to 10 deg advance, lightest springs I could find
MSD 6AL
Put it together mostly from parts I already had. Hopefully start up today. Will go into my 71 Duster this weekend.
Car has fiberglass bumpers and hood, rest is original.
MT ET Street 295/55R15
Have a 10" (3.000 stall?) converter. Will look closer when I get there, might have some other I can use.
904 w/ reverse pattern. Not a clue of internals...
8 3/4" 4.10 SG

How much power do you gentlemen think it will make?
What do you think it can do on 1/8-mile?


I went back and dug out my time slips from 2007 when I ran a Teener; specs of car and engine are listed in 12 second combinations.
I guess your times in the 1/8 will be high to mid 8's
 
Probably around 375-400 hp with those heads and cam.

With a 340 I was making 392hp with stock'ish x heads and a .528 solid, same 750 carb & headers.
20 hp of it is in the tune alone.imo.
 
I'd say 400-425hp @ 6000-6200 rpm, that's better than the 3-4 different 400hp 318 Steve Dulcich built, oh ya I forgot magazines builds my correction 300-325hp :) it's a 318 after all.
 
Last edited:
318 LA block
340 crank
KB pistons
zero decked
10.45:1 CR
Edelbrock 6077 heads, untouched
273 adjustable rockers
MP hyd 292/292 .508/.508 108 LS (I'm not quite sure about the cam but after some measuring and calculation it is my best guess)
Weiand Stealth intake w/ 1" spacer
Quick Fuel 750 dp (best I had)
MP elec dist - limited to 10 deg advance, lightest springs I could find
MSD 6AL
Put it together mostly from parts I already had. Hopefully start up today. Will go into my 71 Duster this weekend.
Car has fiberglass bumpers and hood, rest is original.
MT ET Street 295/55R15
Have a 10" (3.000 stall?) converter. Will look closer when I get there, might have some other I can use.
904 w/ reverse pattern. Not a clue of internals...
8 3/4" 4.10 SG

How much power do you gentlemen think it will make?
What do you think it can do on 1/8-mile?


You care enough to ask so...
Ok, I get it that you're throwing it together from stuff you already had on hand, buuuuuut....

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You spent the money to get the 318 zero decked. Square to the crank? bored/honed? Why not pick up a cheap 360 block for $100 and do those same operations, that'll give you +0.090 bore and about +1/4" stroke!
340 crank? why not sell it and get a new internally balanced 360 crank with the above block? What year was the 318 block? Are you aware that the factory did use forged cranks in 318 blocks?
What kind of KB pistons? cast? hypereuctectic? forged? weight?
what rods to go with the pistons, and was the rotating assembly balanced?
heads untouched eddys, why? why not sell the eddys and get some trick flows?
hydraulic cam with adjustable rockers? why not a solid flat tappet, you're gonna have to check the rockers anyways.
is that torque converter appropriate to that cam?

If you just wanted to get it together and on the road this weekend, I get it. Your thinking and my thinking is very different when it comes to building something because I am very VERY lazy, and I only want to do it once.

Measure twice, cut once. Sure, it's more work up front, that leads to less work on the back end. And I LIKE up front.

proxy-image?piurl=https%3A%2F%2Fm.media-amazon.com%2Fimages%2FI%2F71HXvEhk-dL._AC_UX385_.jpg
 
You care enough to ask so...
Ok, I get it that you're throwing it together from stuff you already had on hand, buuuuuut....

View attachment 1715956225

You spent the money to get the 318 zero decked. Square to the crank? bored/honed? Why not pick up a cheap 360 block for $100 and do those same operations, that'll give you +0.090 bore and about +1/4" stroke!
340 crank? why not sell it and get a new internally balanced 360 crank with the above block? What year was the 318 block? Are you aware that the factory did use forged cranks in 318 blocks?
What kind of KB pistons? cast? hypereuctectic? forged? weight?
what rods to go with the pistons, and was the rotating assembly balanced?
heads untouched eddys, why? why not sell the eddys and get some trick flows?
hydraulic cam with adjustable rockers? why not a solid flat tappet, you're gonna have to check the rockers anyways.
is that torque converter appropriate to that cam?

If you just wanted to get it together and on the road this weekend, I get it. Your thinking and my thinking is very different when it comes to building something because I am very VERY lazy, and I only want to do it once.

Measure twice, cut once. Sure, it's more work up front, that leads to less work on the back end. And I LIKE up front.

View attachment 1715956226

why small block at all go straight to a 543?
 
You care enough to ask so...
Ok, I get it that you're throwing it together from stuff you already had on hand, buuuuuut....

View attachment 1715956225

You spent the money to get the 318 zero decked. Square to the crank? bored/honed? Why not pick up a cheap 360 block for $100 and do those same operations, that'll give you +0.090 bore and about +1/4" stroke!
340 crank? why not sell it and get a new internally balanced 360 crank with the above block? What year was the 318 block? Are you aware that the factory did use forged cranks in 318 blocks?
What kind of KB pistons? cast? hypereuctectic? forged? weight?
what rods to go with the pistons, and was the rotating assembly balanced?
heads untouched eddys, why? why not sell the eddys and get some trick flows?
hydraulic cam with adjustable rockers? why not a solid flat tappet, you're gonna have to check the rockers anyways.
is that torque converter appropriate to that cam?

If you just wanted to get it together and on the road this weekend, I get it. Your thinking and my thinking is very different when it comes to building something because I am very VERY lazy, and I only want to do it once.

Measure twice, cut once. Sure, it's more work up front, that leads to less work on the back end. And I LIKE up front.

View attachment 1715956226
Thanks for the babes.
To answer your question. It is because he is messing with what he has and/or he wants to build a 318.
By following your logic, you show yourself as a hypocrite because of what is written below.

Just help the man build the 318!
why small block at all go straight to a 543?

Exactly! The freakin guy is messing with a 318, for anyone that doesn’t help him build a 318, STFU & walk away from the thread.
You non helping guys suggesting for a bigger and cheaper engine (340/360) are hypocrites and if you follow your own logic, you would have suggested something along the lines of an Indy max block and said stroke that till it hurts for the biggest and baddest displacement possible!

Everyone knows bigger is better for more power but do you all have to really hammer every 318 thread?

Why is it you can’t just help the guy with what he’s got?
 
why small block at all go straight to a 543?
Build what you have and budget allows is what I believe.
If I'm to question the reason for a 318 or 383 build then I would say, why waste your money on a 408 when for the same amount of money you can build a 512. lol
 
Build what you have and budget allows is what I believe.
If I'm to question the reason for a 318 or 383 build then I would say, why waste your money on a 408 when for the same amount of money you can build a 512. lol


Plus people like to do things against the grain, I agree most would be happier with a 360 or 408 but really since 440 is still readily available and from performance to dollar driveability stand point no one should build less especially when you factor gear and stall. No replacement for displacement unless it's big block seems to be the A bodies motto.
 
Plus people like to do things against the grain, I agree most would be happier with a 360 or 408 but really since 440 is still readily available and from performance to dollar driveability stand point no one should build less especially when you factor gear and stall. No replacement for displacement unless it's big block seems to be the A bodies motto.
I wouldn't waste my money on the smog 360.
We scrapped those back in the 80's. lol
We built 383's for small block killers and 440's for big block killers.
Something about big bores that gets me going.:D
 
If the CR is accurate, I think it could get close to 400hp...... if......... the valvetrain behaves itself and allows the engine to achieve peak power at the natural point where the combo of parts maxes itself out.
Instead of a situation where the curve is still climbing....... then the valvetrain gets unsettled and the party is over.

The cam and heads are big enough to allow the peak to occur well above 6k........ if the valvetrain can keep up.
 
I wouldn't waste my money on the smog 360.
We scrapped those back in the 80's. lol
We built 383's for small block killers and 440's for big block killers.
Something about big bores that gets me going.:D


I always found funny if someone came out with an aftermarket heavy duty 4.25" bore sbm people would trip over themselves to buy one but over look 383 which is basically one.
 
Build what you have and budget allows is what I believe.
If I'm to question the reason for a 318 or 383 build then I would say, why waste your money on a 408 when for the same amount of money you can build a 512. lol
Less money! 440source has full rotating assemblies that start at $2K. For the price of cylinder heads, B/RB vs SBM’s, the power return makes SBM’s look like a bad choice.
 
I know of a 340 almost identical, cam & comp, but with worked X heads. It made 380hp with 1 7/8" headers. His shift points were right at 7K. I suspect you'll be sneaking up on that if everything is right. As far as 1/8th mile times, if your gonna track race it exclusively, you need more gear and a 5k ish converter to maximize your et's. With your current gear and a 3ish converter, i'd be thrilled with a hi 7 in the 1/8th.
 
318 LA block
340 crank
KB pistons
zero decked
10.45:1 CR
Edelbrock 6077 heads, untouched
273 adjustable rockers
MP hyd 292/292 .508/.508 108 LS (I'm not quite sure about the cam but after some measuring and calculation it is my best guess)
Weiand Stealth intake w/ 1" spacer
Quick Fuel 750 dp (best I had)
MP elec dist - limited to 10 deg advance, lightest springs I could find
MSD 6AL
Put it together mostly from parts I already had. Hopefully start up today. Will go into my 71 Duster this weekend.
Car has fiberglass bumpers and hood, rest is original.
MT ET Street 295/55R15
Have a 10" (3.000 stall?) converter. Will look closer when I get there, might have some other I can use.
904 w/ reverse pattern. Not a clue of internals...
8 3/4" 4.10 SG

How much power do you gentlemen think it will make?
What do you think it can do on 1/8-mile?
:thumbsup: It should be a good runner.
 
I’d give it 400+ if it had a single plane on top.
Otherwise I’m with @JBurch

I don’t know what an 1/8 run would be, but if it is light enough and you get the chassis working and the launch right, a best of mid 12’s in the 1/4. Less as time goes on & things get more and more straightened out for the track.

Speaking strictly of the drag strip…
I think you can use more gear & converter myself.
But this is t a track car is it?

I was going to build a 377 of a 340 block I have, but couldn't find any this spring so I took what I have to get the car running so I can sort details out for next season. Plan is to build a mild and reliable mid to high 6's car for Swedish Street Week. The 377 will have a mech cam and tunnel ram on top and a 46RH tranny. And perhaps Trick Flow heads.
 
You care enough to ask so...
Ok, I get it that you're throwing it together from stuff you already had on hand, buuuuuut....

View attachment 1715956225

You spent the money to get the 318 zero decked. Square to the crank? bored/honed? Why not pick up a cheap 360 block for $100 and do those same operations, that'll give you +0.090 bore and about +1/4" stroke!
340 crank? why not sell it and get a new internally balanced 360 crank with the above block? What year was the 318 block? Are you aware that the factory did use forged cranks in 318 blocks?
What kind of KB pistons? cast? hypereuctectic? forged? weight?
what rods to go with the pistons, and was the rotating assembly balanced?
heads untouched eddys, why? why not sell the eddys and get some trick flows?
hydraulic cam with adjustable rockers? why not a solid flat tappet, you're gonna have to check the rockers anyways.
is that torque converter appropriate to that cam?

If you just wanted to get it together and on the road this weekend, I get it. Your thinking and my thinking is very different when it comes to building something because I am very VERY lazy, and I only want to do it once.

Measure twice, cut once. Sure, it's more work up front, that leads to less work on the back end. And I LIKE up front.

View attachment 1715956226

I got the 318 short block already put together. It was seriously built buy a racer I know very well and I got it dirt cheap and was intended to go into my Warlock. If I would have to start from scratch I would probably do like you described but I have been very busy and want the car running for Mopars At The Strip, Sweden August 1st and next week i will be away for work so I need it finished this weekend.

Here in Sweden you can't 'just pick up a cheap 360' so you have to work on what you can find.
Pistons are KB167. Will ask my friend about the rods and the other, I forgot what he told me.
See my answer above for what I actually want to do.
You might be sitting on the long runner tunnel ram I'm looking for? ;)
 
If the CR is accurate, I think it could get close to 400hp...... if......... the valvetrain behaves itself and allows the engine to achieve peak power at the natural point where the combo of parts maxes itself out.
Instead of a situation where the curve is still climbing....... then the valvetrain gets unsettled and the party is over.

The cam and heads are big enough to allow the peak to occur well above 6k........ if the valvetrain can keep up.

I had a hassle last night to get the valve train in the ballpark. Couldn't find pushrods short enough so I had to shim the rocker shaft 1/64 to make it work. It's not optimal but it should work. We'll see!
 
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