318 to 360 swap

Rapid Robert

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73 dart. are the mtr mounts the same or different? I've heard both ways. the block ears (location/spacing) were definitely different when I went from a 273 to a 360 in a 64 dart. thank you for your time.
 

318willrun

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318 motor mounts will work, just need a spacer on the driver's side (a nut will work). Other stuff you may already know, you'll need a balanced flexplate or balanced converter as the 360 is externally balanced (unless somebody internally balanced yours). You'll need the 360's harmonic balancer. You cannot use the LA 318 pan on a 360.
 

Rapid Robert

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I had to weld a triangle piece on the passenger mount for the 64 273 to 360 so I was thinking I would have to do the same thing on this (318 to 360)
 

JDMopar

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You won't have to do any welding to the 73 318 mounts. The drivers side is the only one that will need some help to fit. Mount the brackets behind the ears on the block, as always. You will see that you just need to stack up some washers between the block ears and brackets on the one side. As mentioned above, make sure you use the right torque converter for a 360 or get a B&M flexplate that is balanced to work with the 360 and your existing torque converter. Also.....a 360 LA is balanced different from a 5.9 Magnum, but both are externally balanced. If you're putting in a 5.9 Magnum, just use a 5.9 Magnum flex plate and rat one hole out so your existing torque converter will bolt up.
 

Dan the man

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318 motor mounts will work, just need a spacer on the driver's side (a nut will work). Other stuff you may already know, you'll need a balanced flexplate or balanced converter as the 360 is externally balanced (unless somebody internally balanced yours). You'll need the 360's harmonic balancer. You cannot use the LA 318 pan on a 360.
Why not just get the correct motor mount? Seems odd to me that people will spend thousands on their engines and then try to cut corners on the smaller parts. The driver's side is the torque side and you surely don't want it failing under acceleration, in order to save a couple of bucks.
 

MOPAROFFICIAL

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thats what I needed to know, thanks guys. RR
He just told you that you don't need any welding... and then told you in the next sentence you do 'without saying directly' need to weld...uh.okay.. and yes it is the driver side that needs the ear added.
 

318willrun

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Why not just get the correct motor mount? Seems odd to me that people will spend thousands on their engines and then try to cut corners on the smaller parts. The driver's side is the torque side and you surely don't want it failing under acceleration, in order to save a couple of bucks.
I wondered why the last 40 small blocks all broke the driver's side. I actually ruined a 15,000 dollar 340 once because the driver's side broke. And my 12,000 dollar 360 broke the driver's side mount as well !!! Do you think it was the nut I put in????
:lol:
 

Dan the man

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I wondered why the last 40 small blocks all broke the driver's side. I actually ruined a 15,000 dollar 340 once because the driver's side broke. And my 12,000 dollar 360 broke the driver's side mount as well !!! Do you think it was the nut I put in????
:lol:
Do you think that I was wrong in what I said about using the correct mount vs doing it halfway? I don't see you having $12,000 in a engine. I think that if something is worth doing, it's worth doing right.
 

Rapid Robert

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when I modded the 64 A body 273 mounts to swap in the 360 the added welded ear was on the pass side & several washers (or a nut would have worked) was on the drivers side.
 

318willrun

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Do you think that I was wrong in what I said about using the correct mount vs doing it halfway? I don't see you having $12,000 in a engine. I think that if something is worth doing, it's worth doing right.
Yes, you were wrong.. but not about suggesting to get the 360 mounts, but wrong in suggesting failures occuring or people skimping while spending thousands on an engine then being a cheapskate, and wrong on doing the job "halfway".
 
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Dan the man

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Yes, you were wrong.. but not about suggesting to get the 360 mounts, but wrong in suggesting failures occuring or people skimping while spending thousands on an engine then being a cheapskate, and wrong on doing the job "halfway".
I don't think that I was wrong in suggesting that a failure could occur when a part is installed wrong and most of the time it's because of either in a hurry to get the job done or to trim costs. What I said I've seen happen and a stuck throttle is not fun.
 

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I don't think that I was wrong in suggesting that a failure could occur when a part is installed wrong and most of the time it's because of either in a hurry to get the job done or to trim costs. What I said I've seen happen and a stuck throttle is not fun.
A nut spacer on a engine mount stuck a throttle ?????? :eek::eek::eek:


I give up.... :thankyou:
 

318willrun

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The mount itself came loose because of not being installed correctly.
well, I have no idea who did what and what you saw happen to who. Don't take this personal, take it as constructive criticism - IF you understood how using a spacer in the mount worked you'd not be at all stating the things you state. I have two cars right now using 318 mounts on 360's using spacers, not to count all the times I have done it in the past, along with hundreds of thousands of other mopar people. The only way I'd "buy" 360/340 mounts instead of using a spacer would be if it was a professional restoration or I found the mounts for 5 bucks.
 

Dan the man

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well, I have no idea who did what and what you saw happen to who. Don't take this personal, take it as constructive criticism - IF you understood how using a spacer in the mount worked you'd not be at all stating the things you state. I have two cars right now using 318 mounts on 360's using spacers, not to count all the times I have done it in the past, along with hundreds of thousands of other mopar people. The only way I'd "buy" 360/340 mounts instead of using a spacer would be if it was a professional restoration or I found the mounts for 5 bucks.
I understand what you're saying and it does make sense to me. I was just wanting to share on what I saw happen once, I probably went about it the wrong way.
 

Dan the man

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well, I have no idea who did what and what you saw happen to who. Don't take this personal, take it as constructive criticism - IF you understood how using a spacer in the mount worked you'd not be at all stating the things you state. I have two cars right now using 318 mounts on 360's using spacers, not to count all the times I have done it in the past, along with hundreds of thousands of other mopar people. The only way I'd "buy" 360/340 mounts instead of using a spacer would be if it was a professional restoration or I found the mounts for 5 bucks.
318willrun, is it worth going from a 6 cylinder to a small block? I found a clean rust free duster but it's a 6 cylinder car
 

318willrun

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318willrun, is it worth going from a 6 cylinder to a small block? I found a clean rust free duster but it's a 6 cylinder car
Only if you want the V8. I like the V8 sound, and the V8 offers a lot more power right out of the box. Pretty easy swap.
 

Dan the man

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Only if you want the V8. I like the V8 sound, and the V8 offers a lot more power right out of the box. Pretty easy swap.
What year would be good for a donor car? I thought that I would change out the K member and all of the suspension parts
 

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What year would be good for a donor car? I thought that I would change out the K member and all of the suspension parts
if it has the '72 or earlier K-frame, just use adapting mounts. If it's '73 and up, you can use something like the Schumacher mounts or swap K-frame. /6 cars have a lighter duty torsion bar, but I don't change them when I swap.
 

MOPAROFFICIAL

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You need to get to the eye doctor....lol. :icon_fU:
When somebody says "use a stack of washers".... need I say more?
:poke:Cut some tube stock or just weld the damn thing...and stick those two fingers back up your nose where they were before you posted.
 

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...:)

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