340 build No POWER need help w tune

crackedback

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I'll call BS!

4 corner idle carbs will have an IAB in the .072-.076 range in most every case in all 4 corners.

2 corners will have around an .036 in secondary.

No wonder it runs rich...

Disconnect the fuel source to your fuel solenoid. Put an .072 IAB in the outer side air bleed in the secondary side.

Like a bad Ginsu knife commercial.. BUT wait, THERE'S MORE!!!
 

805moparkid

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I'll call BS!

4 corner idle carbs will have an IAB in the .072-.076 range in most every case in all 4 corners.

2 corners will have around an .036 in secondary.

No wonder it runs rich...

Disconnect the fuel source to your fuel solenoid. Put an .072 IAB in the outer side air bleed in the secondary side.

Like a bad Ginsu knife commercial.. BUT wait, THERE'S MORE!!!

i havnt had a 4 corner yet... :-? what about in the primary?
 

crackedback

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All 4 corners are usually .072-.076 to start.

Look at the pic, the front outers are HUGE compared to the rear. They should be the same size.
 

340Duster247

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I'll call BS!

4 corner idle carbs will have an IAB in the .072-.076 range in most every case in all 4 corners.

2 corners will have around an .036 in secondary.

No wonder it runs rich...

Disconnect the fuel source to your fuel solenoid. Put an .072 IAB in the outer side air bleed in the secondary side.

Like a bad Ginsu knife commercial.. BUT wait, THERE'S MORE!!!

BS?? On what my friend said. He has 100% not touched them. And like I said he bought this carb new just over a year ago. He gave me the carb because his new motor required a 1050.
 

805moparkid

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View attachment 1714662833
Just another pic so you can see my set up

no offense but thats jacked... you are asking for SO many issues with a fuel delivery system like that...

you need at minimum a hi volume pump to a regulator, then two 3/8 or -6 lines to EACH bowl. then off the reg another reg just for the nitrous...

also notice you go from -6 to looks like 1/4" on the fuel side no less??
 

805moparkid

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All 4 corners are usually .072-.076 to start.

Look at the pic, the front outers are HUGE compared to the rear. They should be the same size.

yea i saw that... makes sense though as your flowing same amount of air/fuel just thru 4 instead of 2.

anyways he needs to either open those bleeds up or order the correct size.
 

crackedback

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BS?? On what my friend said. He has 100% not touched them. And like I said he bought this carb new just over a year ago. He gave me the carb because his new motor required a 1050.

Yes BS. good luck. I'm out.

I'll bet if that carb was right it would idle fine.

9 psi, wrong air bleeds... it's a clusterfuck!
 

340Duster247

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I'm running 3/8 the entire fuel system.thats all -6. The only line that's thinner is the fuel "t" to the nitrous. I never went with a eletric pump and regulator because I'm only running a 100 shot I just copied what NOS systems told me to.
 

340Duster247

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I'll call BS!

4 corner idle carbs will have an IAB in the .072-.076 range in most every case in all 4 corners.

2 corners will have around an .036 in secondary.

No wonder it runs rich...

Disconnect the fuel source to your fuel solenoid. Put an .072 IAB in the outer side air bleed in the secondary side.

Like a bad Ginsu knife commercial.. BUT wait, THERE'S MORE!!!

Yes BS. good luck. I'm out.

I'll bet if that carb was right it would idle fine.

9 psi, wrong air bleeds... it's a clusterfuck!

Thanks cracked
 

805moparkid

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Thanks cracked

well regardless of what he thinks he is right, those bleeds are to small... order 2 to match your correct size bleeds as long as they are in the .072-.076 range, if they are not then get 4 .075's and install, then get back to us!

and can your NO2 system for now!
 

340Duster247

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well regardless of what he thinks he is right, those bleeds are to small... order 2 to match your correct size bleeds as long as they are in the .072-.076 range, if they are not then get 4 .075's and install, then get back to us!

and can your NO2 system for now!

Ok thanks. What air bleed screws are two small. The small ones on the primary side. Sorry just a little confused
 

crackedback

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OK... last one because I see a pending disaster on the horizon!

Don't even think about hitting that with a juice unit the way it is. You'll kill that thing with fuel which contrary to popular lore, is a BAD thing.

Get a pressure regulator for BOTH side, carb and juice. They will likely take entirely different pressures to operate correctly. Set carb side to 6-7 psi.

Change the rear outer bleeds as 805 laid out. If you have a 1-60 drill set, you can do it yourself. Try anything from .070-.075.

I'd bet those two things will make a world of difference.

One other member just told me he had a carb like that one and it came with smaller IAB's in secondaries. So maybe your friend didn't monkey with it. First one I've ever seen. Fricken holley must be dropping acid on a regular basis to install those.
 

340Duster247

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Just look at my air bleeds and these are the sizes.

Secondary
26 38. 38. 26.



71. 25. 25. 71
Primary

Hope this makes sense.
 

805moparkid

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Just look at my air bleeds and these are the sizes.

Secondary
26 38. 38. 26.



71. 25. 25. 71
Primary

Hope this makes sense.

those 26's should be at least a 72. i would be 4 .075's and see what happens! unless you have a pin vise set then just remove the 26's and drill out to 71 and see what happens, .071"
 

340Duster247

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Thanks guys. Don't worrie not spraying her for a LONG TIME!! I ain't messing with it till I get this engine dialed in first. I'm not one of Thoes guys.
Ill also change the set up and run regulators. I just put a T into the "existing" fuel line like the NOS directions said to with this system. But that's further down the road.

Ill try and figure out this air bleed situation Monday.
Thanks again guys.
 

805moparkid

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Thanks guys. Don't worrie not spraying her for a LONG TIME!! I ain't messing with it till I get this engine dialed in first. I'm not one of Thoes guys.
Ill also change the set up and run regulators. I just put a T into the "existing" fuel line like the NOS directions said to with this system. But that's further down the road.

Ill try and figure out this air bleed situation Monday.
Thanks again guys.

do you have a pin vise set?
 

340Duster247

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No I don't. Ill just buy the correct air bleeds.
In the future if you have any recomondations on how I should run my fuel system I'm all ears. I thought I had the pluming all good only running a 100 shot and a fuel pressure safety. But if running two regulators is the way to go, I'd like to do it right.
Pm me if you have any suggestions.
I'm trying to find diagrams how other have done there's.
 

805moparkid

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No I don't. Ill just buy the correct air bleeds.
In the future if you have any recomondations on how I should run my fuel system I'm all ears. I thought I had the pluming all good only running a 100 shot and a fuel pressure safety. But if running two regulators is the way to go, I'd like to do it right.
Pm me if you have any suggestions.
I'm trying to find diagrams how other have done there's.

ok well report back when you get them! pm sending
 

fishy68

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I'm the other member that told Rob about my buddies brand new out of the box Holley 750 having the wrong idle air bleeds in it from the factory. Couldn't get it to idle clean for nothing and I changed them to match the front bleeds (.073) and re-adjusted the carb and it ran great. BTW: I ended up having to turn all the adjustments out to approx. 1-1/2 turns with the correct air bleeds in it.

One other thing that concerns me is you running a double pumper on a automatic car with only a 2800 stall converter. I have never had luck doing that. Always seemed to bog on take off unless I put super big shooters in it. Maybe that's another reason yours has no take off. Combine that with the fuel pressure all over the place (AS MENTIONED, YOU NEED A REGULATOR), the wrong idle air bleeds in the secondary side, and the timing not dialed in and you've got a freakin mess.
 
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