I'm trying to stay close to stop compression ratio
340 piston I'd question
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2b406070
With out getting too accurate
About .005 pop out
With out getting too accurate
About .005 pop out
MOPAROFFICIAL
If it has tits, it's a liabilititty.
Absolutely and it's what NHRA approves in stock class 340 Motors
MOPAROFFICIAL
If it has tits, it's a liabilititty.
Then make sure you put the largest open chamber iron heads you have on it. jk but yes those are direct replacements of the strongest kind, just as heavy as as stock.. but they wind up just fine. May be noisy when cold though, but dont sweat it. They just require more skirt clearance is all to grow/expand, like near .008.
I've sold 2 sets over the last 4 yrs.
You never know exactly what the weight of those pistons are
I have a set for a 440,,,,they are forged as well TRW s
They weight exactly 1 gram less than a factory stock 440 piston from 1968
So
You never know what you have until you check the weight
I have a set for a 440,,,,they are forged as well TRW s
They weight exactly 1 gram less than a factory stock 440 piston from 1968
So
You never know what you have until you check the weight
MOPAROFFICIAL
If it has tits, it's a liabilititty.
Good to be a hair lighter out of balance 'on the rod/piston end' than heavier.
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Too bad for the Chevys. lol
darndart
Well-Known Member
TRW/Speed Pro L2316F
Thanks is that good ....
They look spiffy...
Think im using the O heads
Its going to be a driver so don't
Want over stock 69 340 compression
They look spiffy...
Think im using the O heads
Its going to be a driver so don't
Want over stock 69 340 compression
I'm running the old school TRW forged pistons in my 65 Barracuda 340, with Edelbrock heads for a 340 that have combustion chambers machined (I think) .030 for clearance with pistons having a mild positive deck height.
I've not attempted to accurately assess my CR, although I'm thinking it's under 10:1 despite the pistons being called 10.5:1 and having heads with combustion chambers smaller than stock (65 vs. - what - 72 or so?). Cranking compression is 165.
I've not attempted to accurately assess my CR, although I'm thinking it's under 10:1 despite the pistons being called 10.5:1 and having heads with combustion chambers smaller than stock (65 vs. - what - 72 or so?). Cranking compression is 165.
You'll end up somewhere around 9 to 9.5. Just right.
33IMP
Well-Known Member
I'm betting one gram is WAY tighter than factory balance tolerance.
NC Engine Builder
Grumpy Old Man
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The factory assemblies are off as much as 20-30 grams
so looks cast to me
i do like the oil pick-up has a ok pan ...that i wont use
don't like the bolts holding the windage tray on
i do like the oil pick-up has a ok pan ...that i wont use
don't like the bolts holding the windage tray on
That is an original factory windage tray and bolts .
Tommy
Tommy
Inertia
Well-Known Member
There was a roundy-round car went thru 2 seasons and numerous engines losing oil pressure at hi-rpm, traced it to a pick-up similar to that one.
Sucked the bottom of the pan onto pick-up screen.
I suggest some kind of spacer, nut, washer welded to bottom of the screen to ensure maintaining a gap.
jmo
Sucked the bottom of the pan onto pick-up screen.
I suggest some kind of spacer, nut, washer welded to bottom of the screen to ensure maintaining a gap.
jmo
It appears cast......but if it is, it's nodular iron. Very strong for cast iron. See how smooth that counterweight is and the grain? If you get a picture of the parting line on one of the crank throws, we can tell for sure. Pencil lead thin line and it's cast. About a 1/2" wide line and it's forged.
Couple bolts have paint on them
Figure someone put pan bolts in there
That’s possible .
But the bolts for the tray are normal strength hardware .
They might even be the same as pan bolts,,,I can’t remember .
It’s been a long time,,,I can’t remember if they are 1/4-20 or not ?
I think the pan bolts are larger diameter,,,I’ll have to check myself,,lol .
Tommy
But the bolts for the tray are normal strength hardware .
They might even be the same as pan bolts,,,I can’t remember .
It’s been a long time,,,I can’t remember if they are 1/4-20 or not ?
I think the pan bolts are larger diameter,,,I’ll have to check myself,,lol .
Tommy
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I just went and double checked myself .
The bolts for the pan are 5/16-18 .
The bolts for the windage tray are 1/4-20 .
Here is a pic I just took of one of my sets .
The factory bolt also uses a captive washer under it .
Also,,,,the rusty looking main in that pic is really just one of those red rear main seals,,,,Lol .
Tommy
The bolts for the pan are 5/16-18 .
The bolts for the windage tray are 1/4-20 .
Here is a pic I just took of one of my sets .
The factory bolt also uses a captive washer under it .
Also,,,,the rusty looking main in that pic is really just one of those red rear main seals,,,,Lol .
Tommy
Thanks
I bought it windage tray for my build then I found this ....so if this is any good might build other for a toy
3751841 cast into crank
I belive that means CAST
I belive that means CAST
Not to worry there. Those cast cranks can handle 400+ horse.
Yea i have a steel crank so might just use that or build the 69 block and save this for something else ...
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