340 stock rods vs eagle rods

[PROSTOCKTOM]

Tom, is the price night and day difference between the three you mentioned?

I am sure there are differences, but to be honest I only deal with Molnar products and I don't pay attention to what others offer.

I rest well knowing I sell a product that comes out of the box ready to go that was machined and inspected in Michigan by people who care about their livelihood.

Tom

 

[33IMP]

We just put Scat rods in my 340 build. Combined with a much lighter Icon piston we reduced the reciprocating weight by over 300 grams per cylinder. That’s free horsepower, and we ended up at over 460hp on the dyno with no tuning and a pretty mild cam. I don’t think I’ll ever be able to use stock rods and pistons again even though there’s really nothing wrong with them. The aftermarket stuff just gives very real benefits at a good price.

Not only is it free horsepower, the lighter the piston the stronger the rod becomes, as constant load is reduced. 300 grams is YUGE!

 

[toolmanmike]

I don't know what's currently normal for rebuilding OEM rods but $800.00 seems like a lot. But Summit does sell aftermarket I beam rods for a little over 400.00. Not sure if Eagle or OEM rods are stronger but saving money is a good incentive if reliability isn't compromised. Some people simply do not like Eagle SIR rods after some had issues with them years ago, possibly with strokers.

Personally I like the Scat I-bean rods which are stronger, forged from better 4340 material and only slightly heavier and slightly more expensive than the 5140 Eagle SIR forgings. i tend to lean towards things being a little better than they have to be.

To save a few bucks over Scat, I believe the Summit brand of I-beam rods are made by Scat.

My local shop get's $25 for the first rod and $10 for each additional. Plus rod bolts of course.

 

[Mtrhead]

There are sets of reconditioned 645 bushed 340 shot peened rods for sale on eBay $400 a set

 

[66fs]

I checked the cost of reconditioning eight 341 Desoto Hemi rods. $87 to recondition, $56 to Magneflux, $100 to drill pin oiling holes, plus rod bolts.

 

[Bewy]

The Eagle rods eliminate a weak area of the factory rod because they use bolts only, not nuts & bolts. The factory rod is undercut for the bolt head, which weakens it. The Eagle rods probably uses thicker bolts, which would be another plus. Wouldn't worry about the oil spurt slots, but you could grind your own.

 

[junkyardhero]

i had a set of rods done about a year ago. customer insisted on the OG rods that came with the motor.

here's the breakdown:
clean & mag rods- 120
bolts & resize- 95
press off/on pistons- 80
bush rods- 160 (include hone)
arp bolts- 90

so a grand total of $545

so i can see how somebody could back with $800 pretty easy if the rods were especially grungy and needed shot peen and checked before work began.

 

[Jersey Devil]

good morning, im just a novice mopar guy and not overly technical when it comes to engine building so id like to ask some opinions before i proceed.
Im having my 340 machined and rebuilt by a reputable mopar shop, its basically a stockish build, I had Oregon regrind me a 68 4-speed cam, i have X heads that are getting new everything and some clean up where necessary, 30 over with new pistons, im guessing around 10-1 compression when finished.
The shop owner called me yesterday and recommended to me that instead of re-conditioning my rods which would cost me around $800 he suggested a set from Eagle, he said that they will be just as good for my application and lighter and it would be half the expense, my question to you experts....
Is he making a good recommendation?
Is he being lazy and doesnt want to do the extra work?
he has built 2 engines for me so far and all have been good.
I kinda wanted to use all stock parts but the idea of saving $500 is enticing.
thanks for reading...Rich

He gave you a Ridiculously High price because he doesn't want to do the work and rather make money selling you rods.

The big benefits of new rods, Zero hours/ cycles on the material and the type of material that they are made of.

There are so many different types and weight/strength of rods to choose from.. it really depends on what you want and need.

How much HP/ rpm?
How much money you want to spend?
What it's for, street/ drag / road racing?

Weight plays a big part with revability / rpms and cost to balance?

Alot of people are brand loyal, be it from what they actually used or just by " What they heard".

I see reconditioning priced around $20/rod plus bolts ($75), so rebuilt should be $235+/-.

I-beams are lighter and don't need the clearancing H-beans need.

< 400hp I would have the rods recommended.

good morning, im just a novice mopar guy and not overly technical when it comes to engine building so id like to ask some opinions before i proceed.
Im having my 340 machined and rebuilt by a reputable mopar shop, its basically a stockish build, I had Oregon regrind me a 68 4-speed cam, i have X heads that are getting new everything and some clean up where necessary, 30 over with new pistons, im guessing around 10-1 compression when finished.
The shop owner called me yesterday and recommended to me that instead of re-conditioning my rods which would cost me around $800 he suggested a set from Eagle, he said that they will be just as good for my application and lighter and it would be half the expense, my question to you experts....
Is he making a good recommendation?
Is he being lazy and doesnt want to do the extra work?
he has built 2 engines for me so far and all have been good.
I kinda wanted to use all stock parts but the idea of saving $500 is enticing.

 

[mad dog]

Jersey Devil, i agree with your above post except i dont think hes trying to make money off selling me new rods, he quoted me $399 for the rods, i think thats ballpark pricing, I do however think that buying new rods saves him from working on my crusty rusty original rods. This shop does a lot of racing engines and high performance stuff so im thinking that they are accustom to throwing new shiny stuff at these exotic race engines, Im more of the resto type customer, im not interested with squeezing every last bit of HP out of my builds, his shop is an hour away, im gonna take a ride this morning and see whats up and check progress.. Rich

 

[JDMopar]

I put new Scat rods in my 273 a few years ago. They were a lot cheaper than rebuilding 60 year old originals, and came with ARP cap screws. Big ends all weighed exactly the same, small ends all weighed exactly the same, and total weight was all exactly the same. My machinist said he was so impressed that he weighed all 8 boxes they came in....and they were exactly the same also. LOL. These were Scat I beams and were $360ish 3 years ago.

 

[Nat]

use whatever you like I use olnar in all my builds , never had a problem neverhad problems with stock rods either . . Just whem i rebuild I like to keep things as light as possible

 

[mad dog]

So after talking wiyh my machinest he told me that for my horsepower level (stock) he is completely comfortable useing the eagle rods. He assured me that they will be checked and double checked, measured and weighed before installing.

 

[Dave_J]

I put new Scat rods in my 273 a few years ago. They were a lot cheaper than rebuilding 60 year old originals, and came with ARP cap screws. Big ends all weighed exactly the same, small ends all weighed exactly the same, and total weight was all exactly the same. My machinist said he was so impressed that he weighed all 8 boxes they came in....and they were exactly the same also. LOL. These were Scat I beams and were $360ish 3 years ago.

On that 273, with lighter rods and if you took the THICK 273 wrist pins out and replaced with a super light set you could have had the crank lightened and balanced. Its about 4 pounds off the crank if they do it the lazy way (just cut the counterweights) or over 5 pounds if they grind the crank the harder but better way. That 5 pounds frees up a lot of power and lets the engine rap like a motorcycle.

 

[JDMopar]

On that 273, with lighter rods and if you took the THICK 273 wrist pins out and replaced with a super light set you could have had the crank lightened and balanced. Its about 4 pounds off the crank if they do it the lazy way (just cut the counterweights) or over 5 pounds if they grind the crank the harder but better way. That 5 pounds frees up a lot of power and lets the engine rap like a motorcycle.

Yeah....the big fat wrist pins went bye bye too. I used custom Race Tech pistons that were a lot lighter also. I used a 72 318 crank, and it got to lose a little weight to when the rotating assembly was balanced. Small hydraulic roller, but it definitely zinged up quick when we ran it on the dyno! 260 HP and 280 lb/ft torque. Way plenty for a ride around 4 speed 65 Barracuda.

 

[LO23M8B]

Little old lady from Pasadena.......

My wife. And at one time she had a red superstock Dodge in the garage.

 

[Dave_J]

Jersey Devil, i agree with your above post except i dont think hes trying to make money off selling me new rods, he quoted me $399 for the rods, i think thats ballpark pricing, I do however think that buying new rods saves him from working on my crusty rusty original rods. This shop does a lot of racing engines and high performance stuff so im thinking that they are accustom to throwing new shiny stuff at these exotic race engines, Im more of the resto type customer, im not interested with squeezing every last bit of HP out of my builds, his shop is an hour away, im gonna take a ride this morning and see whats up and check progress.. Rich

Some folks have more Dollars that sense. I have neither one.

When it comes down to paying labor rate to fully refresh a set of small block 273/318/240/360 rods or buying a set of WORKED and much lighter aftermarket ones, if the price of 8 is a little more for the new ones, they are in my shopping cart. And I get to pick which size big and little end bore sizes and rod length if I want to add like a aftermarket Cadillac or LS pistons or such to fit my bore.

The 273 has a common bore that many other makes of piston can be swapped in if you measure finished bore size, compression heights, rod raito and are willing to change wrist pin sizes.

 

[Oldiron440]

I’m thinking about the hours of service your rods have already seen and how much abuse they have endured in fifty plus years. It would be a ***** if one let go after being reconditioned.