360 Advice Needed - Autocross / Street Engine Build

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Got a new long burr and tackled the ports...

Bowls Blended:
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Intake ports: (you can see the brass tubes at the beginning, just barely broke through)
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Exhaust ports blended and raised the roof a bit:
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One head bolt be head broke through and will need a sleeve:
(I assume this was due to core shift, since they all match)
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Also did a little 30° back-cut on the valves:

Again, no fancy tooling, just made up a little guide to hold my file at the right angle.
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A clearance hole and some oil allows for the valve to spin freely in the drill press while touching the file:
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Haven't posted on here for a while, short block is now back from the machine shop and looking really good. He took a lot of extra time making sure the deck heights all matched and all bearing clearances are perfect. Should be a stout bottom end.
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Trying to work though all the seals to make sure there's no more leaks:
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Got the 13" discs on the front, and they clear the Cobra wheels well. Have 255's front and 275's rear mocked up and there's lots of room.
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Next is to paint up all the engine parts!

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I think it'll be that Mildon road race one that you mentioned earlier, or I'll need to do some cut/weld/baffle on the stock one.
It's an expensive pan that doesn't seem to come on sale at all. You did a bit of K-member trimming to fit that one, right?

I picked up a Crower solid lifter cam, so that'll avoid the lifter collapsing problem.
 
I think it'll be that Mildon road race one that you mentioned earlier, or I'll need to do some cut/weld/baffle on the stock one.
It's an expensive pan that doesn't seem to come on sale at all. You did a bit of K-member trimming to fit that one, right?

I picked up a Crower solid lifter cam, so that'll avoid the lifter collapsing problem.

Are you runnning a biscuit 68-72 Kmember or a 73-76 K?

If your running a 73-76 style it would be a good idea to trim it for clearance now as opposed to see if it rubs after you install. Mine is very close I didn't have to cut. IIRC 72nublu post pics of where to cut.

For the road race pan and the main studs you'll have to cut the excess threads off the center. And maybe/probably easy dimple for piece of mind. I've got pics of this in previous threads.
 
Are you runnning a biscuit 68-72 Kmember or a 73-76 K?

If your running a 73-76 style it would be a good idea to trim it for clearance now as opposed to see if it rubs after you install. Mine is very close I didn't have to cut. IIRC 72nublu post pics of where to cut.

For the road race pan and the main studs you'll have to cut the excess threads off the center. And maybe/probably easy dimple for piece of mind. I've got pics of this in previous threads.

I had to notch the driver's side engine mount on the K frame with my 73-76 style spool mount K-frame. I used stock mounts but with poly bushings, so, that may have played a part. Another option for you would be a Kevko oil pan, The M302 has an extra quart of capacity and a few baffles/traps M301 - 340M302 - 360Stock Location.

Here's the pictures of what I did to fit the Milodon road race pan.
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Been busy with other things for a while, but started to test fit the top-end this week.

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Looks like the hughes rockers should clear the stock valve covers, gotta get some clay in there and make sure they have enough clearance.
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The 904 is rebuit and ready to go:
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Started working on cleaning up the engine bay so it can find a good home.
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Lots of work left, but hopefully will get out to the first autox events in May...

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What color is that? My phone has it like sea foam green.
 
What color is that? My phone has it like sea foam green.

It's the Chrysler Turquiose that they used on big blocks and the 340 cars.
The original 318 in the car was the standard Blue but I like this better with the Gunmetal body color.

I used POR15, and I think it's a bit lighter than the old parts I had. Hopefully it will darken a bit with time.
 
Oooooooooooo!!!!!
Yes! Gotcha, thanks!
 
Very nice stuff. The rockers look like mine, mancini´s own brand (Harland Sharps without the roller bearings). I´ve got 1.6 ratio, they touched the stock valve cover. I made a aluminium spacer and use 2 gaskets now and it works.
 
I made a aluminium spacer and use 2 gaskets now and it works.

This is what I love about the FABO forum, someone out there has tried almost every combo!
Yes, they are the same Mancini ones, just 1.5 ratio.

What thickness of spacer did you end up with?
I was thinking to trace the valve cover gasket onto a sheet of aluminum and cut it out.

It looks like there's contact on the oil baffle around the PCV & breather, did you hit anywhere else?

Thanks!
 
it´s around 5mm....Little less than 1/4 of an Inch. Did it the way you described, was not the kind of work i´d like to do every day.....would be much easier if you have a milling machine to do the straight cuts. With the second Gasket it will give plenty of clearance. In my case the top of the adjusters hit the baffles sightly.

Michael
 
Haven't updated this thread in a while, but motor & tranny are in, and just a couple items left before first startup, like mufflers. :)
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A set of Dougs 453B headers made there way in after trying some cheap headman ones that hung too low:
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Got the denso alternator swap done, and a clutch fan worked out with about 1/4" clearance:
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Getting a bit nervous though, a whole lot of things have changed on the car at once, might take a while to sort it all out and tune.

It's come a long ways from here though!
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That's awesome, great choice on the turquoise I'm painting my 5.9L Magnum the same color... looks nice and it's different than the typical Hemi Orange

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That's awesome, great choice on the turquoise I'm painting my 5.9L Magnum the same color... looks nice and it's different than the typical Hemi Orange

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No doubt! I had a few (Incredibly) rude comments on my engine painted red and how “I fracked up” with the red.
Ummm, not that I’m trying to fool anybody but the car is a ‘67.
 
Thanks![/QUOTE]
well it's not going to change the overlap at all Essentially installing it straight up (I know I know it's a split pattern cam = retarding 4 degrees
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It seems like the key event for DCR is the intake closing ABDC. That changes the dynamic stroke length and this the amount of compression."
It going to lower the Dynamic compression and move the rpm band up a smidge but bottom line is you have to try it and see
It does help when you are borderline pinging and if you can run more advance it can be a win
update
Good move to a solid lifter- how did you ever get stuck with a dual-energy (sic) anyway?
and forget all those comp chevy cams- just re-arranging the deck chairs on the titanic with camquest
the Lunati direction was much better
what are the specs on the Crower?
 
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The motor looks nice, I always liked the turquoise much more than either of the oranges or blue.
Also, that Denso alternator swap is nice.
Are you going to run a fan shroud? Are those Mancini rocker arms?
 
Thanks for the comments on the color, it was originally a 318 car so came in std mopar blue but I like this better.

I'm looking for a fan shroud, but not sure which ones will fit.
It's a Spectre CU526 replacement radiator, so might need some fabrication.

They are hughes rockers, 1.5 ratio. I bought them with the heads off here, thanks FABO! :)

The Denso swap was easy, just made a new mounting bracket and a couple of spacers. The toyota alts came with the right pulley to match up:
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I just painted it with a "cast" finish, and made the chrome parts semi-gloss black. Close enough to original looking for me.

Once I make up the factory looking snorkle air cleaner, it should be a sleeper for non-mopar folks...
 
Next project will be exhaust:
Dougs 453's are on the car which will be followed by:
- Jegs 2.5" X-pipe
- Dynomax super turbo mufflers
- Jegs mandrel 2.5 tailpipes
- Some type of factory looking tips?

I was also thinking of having the dual turn down hidden under the trunk, and faking a single 2" pipe out the back. :)
 
what are the specs on the Crower?

The engine machinist I've been using picked it out, wanted that bit less lobe separation and a heathly lift / duration for street use.

It's 294°/298° advertised
243°/245° @ 0.050" with 0.520"/0.528" lift
109° lobe separation

Ended up with more that 0.100" piston to valve clearance, so lots of room.

Also shimmed all the valve springs to about 120 lbs seat pressure using the drill press and bathroom scale.
The Edelbrock heights were all over the map from 110-over 150 lbs. So hopefully that saves lobes.

This has been a learn-as-you-go type project, hopefully it all come together! (and stays together!)
 
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