360 build.

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trigger_andy

trigger_andy

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So I have a 1979 360 from a Motor Home. 42,000 miles. It was running sweet before it was removed.

Its gonna go into my A Body Charger as the 340 in there is smoking badly on two cylinders and needs a full rebuild but that will take time and much more money that I can spare right now.

But I really dont want to spend any more time and money on it that I have to as it will only be in for a year or so. I dont mind spending some cash but I really do want to keep the cost and effort down. So Im gonna ask some weird questions if thats ok? :D



I have a Canton Sump, Pick-up and Dipstick coming in the Mail soon. From an extraordinarily nice guy in Ireland who point blank refused to take payment for it. (Hi Nick if you're on here)

I have a set of 587 heads with 2.02" Valves that I will mildly port before swapping out. They where freshly rebuild before I bought them a couple of years ago. I have a bunch of porting goodies just arrived from Summit that Im looking forward to playing with. Like my last set of 587's I'll shave the heads .060" and use the Fel-Pro .040" Head Gasket.

I have a 360 Fel-Pro Engine Gasket set.

I'll use the Weiand Action Plus Intake and Holley 670cmf Street Avenger Carb from the 340 as they work well on the 340.

I have a nice set of Headers on the 340 now that will Bolt right up.

When the old heads are off Im hoping to find minimal if any wear. Does anyone know what I can expect from a low mileage 360 thats had an easy life in a Motor Home?

As I'll have the 360 on the Engine Stand Im considering swapping the cam out. Maybe a Comp Cams 268H? Its not a huge expense and then Id replace the Timing Chain as well.

But my main reason for this post/question is how stupid is it of me to consider changing out the Pistons/rings if the Bores are clean and show no signs of wear? I know its lazy and I know that if a jobs worth doing its worth doing properly. But I simply want to bolt in a few parts and get it installed. If I have to strip the block to the bare minimum and start adding machine costs I'll just end up changing the Sump, Heads, Carb and Intake.

Anyone done this before?

Thanks all.
 
I'd either stick it in "as-is" or start fixing the 340.
If you dont need the car for transportation I'd skip the 360 and spend all my $'s on the 340.
 
The best way not to spend money is don't spend it. Intake, cam change, let'er rip, don't even pull heads off.
 
moparmandan said:
If it was running sweet, give it the Krylon overhaul and run it. How's that for cheap?
Click to expand...
Winner winner chicken dinner!m
Swap all 340 parts right on over to the 360. You can even do the cam if you keep the lifters on the correct cam lobes.

This does 2 things.

1: It gets you up and running right away with a good powered engine for super cheap with 20 extra cubic inches.

2: It gets you started on stripping down the 340 for its rebuild.


Do not purchase a new cam or anything except gaskets! That’s all you will need, gaskets.

That 268H cam is smaller than the cam you have in the 340 now.
 
Nothing wrong with doing a top end swap of parts on a decent short block, especially if it just for a while. Tops end repairs and swaps are done all the time.
 
Jimacuda said:
I'd either stick it in "as-is" or start fixing the 340.
If you dont need the car for transportation I'd skip the 360 and spend all my $'s on the 340.
Click to expand...

Well I want the Charger on the road for this upcoming season. So whilst a few hundred bucks on a Cam, Pistons and Rings wont break the bank I can do all this from the Garage and not wait weeks and weeks on machine work.
 
JBurch said:
The best way not to spend money is don't spend it. Intake, cam change, let'er rip, don't even pull heads off.
Click to expand...

Cheers. :) Im not so fussed about a few hundred, but point taken. :)

I have the 2.02" Heads sitting anyway. They are freshly rebuilt so would make sense to fit them. A little work first and I'll go with them. :)

The 340 will end up costing thousands so I'll have to budget for that down the road as the Chargers just had a full re-wire.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Winner winner chicken dinner!m
Swap all 340 parts right on over to the 360. You can even do the cam if you keep the lifters on the correct cam lobes.

This does 2 things.

1: It gets you up and running right away with a good powered engine for super cheap with 20 extra cubic inches.

2: It gets you started on stripping down the 340 for its rebuild.


Do not purchase a new cam or anything except gaskets! That’s all you will need, gaskets.

That 268H cam is smaller than the cam you have in the 340 now.
Click to expand...


Thats a great idea. :) Is there an easy way to check for wear on the Cam?
 
Ok, so the general consensus seems to be either a Cam Change or use as is with the Bolt of items I already have on the 340. I think I'll go with that and use the 340's Cam as that will be going in the the trash after the 340 is rebuilt anyway. :)

So, horrid, tired and repetitive question time;

So with the Weiand Action Plus Intake, Holley 670 Street Avenger, 340 Cam, Headers and the 587's with 2.02" Valves, a light Port Job, a .060" Skim and the Fel-Pro .040" Head Gasket what kind of HP and Torque Figures am I looking at?

But out of pure interest if the bores are clean and have no wear would a simple Piston Swap be feasible?

Has anyone done anything like this before, ie just being lazy?


Thanks for all the replies guys. :)
 
Not lazy at all, and the 360 motor home heads are more than likely a set of 475 castings without the exhaust air injection ports drilled. Fairly common on truck engines. I would just run a compression test to see where things are at but I expect zero problems if the engine has been stored properly to prevent any stuck rings. The Rumblefish plan is as good as it gets here, I think you'd be surprised enough by the outcome that your 340 build would fall on the back burner with the "someday" projects.
 
Check out 318WillRun's 360 build for his 2.45 geared mid seventies duster to get an idea of how your setup will do.
 
Garrett Ellison said:
Not lazy at all, and the 360 motor home heads are more than likely a set of 475 castings without the exhaust air injection ports drilled. Fairly common on truck engines. I would just run a compression test to see where things are at but I expect zero problems if the engine has been stored properly to prevent any stuck rings. The Rumblefish plan is as good as it gets here, I think you'd be surprised enough by the outcome that your 340 build would fall on the back burner with the "someday" projects.
Click to expand...

Awesome, thanks. :)

What are the 475 casting heads like? Ive not seen a set before? But Im guessing the 587's with 2.02" Valves would be a better bet?
 
trigger_andy said:
Cheers. :) Im not so fussed about a few hundred, but point taken. :)

I have the 2.02" Heads sitting anyway. They are freshly rebuilt so would make sense to fit them. A little work first and I'll go with them. :)

The 340 will end up costing thousands so I'll have to budget for that down the road as the Chargers just had a full re-wire.
Click to expand...

Save your Money for the 340.

trigger_andy said:
Thats a great idea. :) Is there an easy way to check for wear on the Cam?
Click to expand...
Use your eyes
trigger_andy said:
I dont even know what that is? :D
Click to expand...
He is saying just paint the engine and drop it in

trigger_andy said:
Im not sure what this actually means?
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Ditto
trigger_andy said:
Ok, so the general consensus seems to be either a Cam Change or use as is with the Bolt of items I already have on the 340. I think I'll go with that and use the 340's Cam as that will be going in the the trash after the 340 is rebuilt anyway. :)

So, horrid, tired and repetitive question time;

So with the Weiand Action Plus Intake, Holley 670 Street Avenger, 340 Cam, Headers and the 587's with 2.02" Valves, a light Port Job, a .060" Skim and the Fel-Pro .040" Head Gasket what kind of HP and Torque Figures am I looking at?
Click to expand...
That is an impossible question to answer. Not enough information.
But out of pure interest if the bores are clean and have no wear would a simple Piston Swap be feasible?

Has anyone done anything like this before, ie just being lazy?


Thanks for all the replies guys. :)
Click to expand...

There are better things to waste money on like nudie bars, Copious amounts of alcohol consumption, subscriptions to Playboy.....
 
rumblefish360 said:
Save your Money for the 340.


Use your eyes

He is saying just paint the engine and drop it in


Ditto

That is an impossible question to answer. Not enough information.


There are better things to waste money on like nudie bars, Copious amounts of alcohol consumption, subscriptions to Playboy.....
Click to expand...


Points taken. :D

Although if the wear on the Cams is even I'd not know what to look for. I'll guess its good though as although its a '73 340 its quite punchy.
 
motorhome could have had an easy or a hard life depending on loads and hills
if it has the premium engine with premium valves and real exhaust seats they are hard to find check the engine codes carefully
did you do a compression check or leak down before taking the heads off? if not do it
If bores look good you can either leave well enough alone or do a minimum hone and new rings
new pistons without a bore job has been done to get the compression up
use the KB quench dome pistons especially made for LA open chamber heads

I personally do not like the chevy optimized 268h but others do, some like the stock 340 cam which is even longer and lower lift- what's with that?- long life for warranty early years and emissions later years
as with any cam duration depends on your usage and attitude, gears converter compression etc
I think 268@006 comp too long duration typical low compression 360 with stock gears and converter
check out the voodoo Lunati line but get your compression nailed down first
at least use the .028 Mr Gasket head gaskets- but you will still have no quench and have less compression than you think you do without measuring
 
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