360 build.

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furrystump said:
It’s ok! It will work because it will be upside down! :)
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:D :D :D

Been over 18 months now and running fine (apart from blowing oil badly on two cylinders which is was anyway)

The plan to install the 4 speed was brought abruptly to the fore when the TF died on me.
 
Jadaharabi said:
The 360 flywheel is balanced for 360s only.
68-71. 340 are internal balanced engines and the 72-73 are external balanced.
The 340 external balance flywheels are not balanced for a 360.
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The 72 340 was also internal balanced as it was the last year for the steel crank. Only the 73 340 was cast and externally balanced.
 
yellow rose said:
The 72 340 was also internal balanced as it was the last year for the steel crank. Only the 73 340 was cast and externally balanced.
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THANK YOU!

I was about to write that. Late ‘72 340’s were externally balanced. Not the whole year. I have not actually ever come across a external balanced “‘72” 340 engine. They have been all internally balanced.
 
rumblefish360 said:
THANK YOU!

I was about to write that. Late ‘72 340’s were externally balanced. Not the whole year. I have not actually ever come across a external balanced “‘72” 340 engine. They have been all internally balanced.
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My first 72 Duster 340 was a cast crank and externally balanced and all I've ever seen have been. Although I've been told early 72s might be either way.
 
Jadaharabi said:
My first 72 Duster 340 was a cast crank and externally balanced and all I've ever seen have been. Although I've been told early 72s might be either way.
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If it was a late 72 it may have been a cast crank. I was the second owner of a a very early 72 Demon that had 2.02 valves and 10.5:1 Pistons.
 
rumblefish360 said:
THANK YOU!

I was about to write that. Late ‘72 340’s were externally balanced. Not the whole year. I have not actually ever come across a external balanced “‘72” 340 engine. They have been all internally balanced.
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Thats why I wrote on page to Generally '72's are cast and all '73's are. :D See, Im learning little by little as I go along. :p

The 340 I sold last year to make ends meet. :( Was a Cast crank '72 340.
 
Dang! And I have a forged 340 crank sitting collecting dust right here, DANG!
 
rumblefish360 said:
Dang! And I have a forged 340 crank sitting collecting dust right here, DANG!
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Lucky for some. :D

My plan was to use the guts of a 1970 340 in my '73 340 but the engine builder and I fell out. He had the engine for over 18 months and in that time had bored it .020".
 
Garrett Ellison said:
Right on! Let us know what you get on your compression test and decide from there, if your going to build the 340 in the future anyway, I would avoid the piston and ring job. If all you get out of it is 8.8-9.2 to 1 with the milling and the thin gaskets, it will still be a great street combination with the other mods.
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Out of interest can you perform a compression test without a Starter Motor? Ie, will turning the engine over by Hand be enough? Ive pulled all the Plugs and used my cheap Tester but Im not getting anything showing compression on two cylinders. Im just wondering if im getting enough momentum to get a test?
 
Going to have to run a starter to do that, no way around it...
 
Yea, I know the feeling....

image.jpg
 
trigger_andy said:
Ooooh, thats lovely, but not posible for me right now. Maybe one day. :D I'll start looking at the engine in closer detail later this week, see what direction I'll go.
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It just takes minor welding skills with the welder and some basic box frame that can slip into each other and 4, 4 inch high wheels (2 swiveling)You want the wheels tall enough so the crane/hoist can slide under to mount/remove the engine. A length of angle iron to hang the radiator and to create a bracket for your control panel . Which will be your own design.

The radiator is out of one of my cars. The control panel is spare gauge parts and the start switch I went fancy on and purchased new.

You are in England correct?
 
rumblefish360 said:
It just takes minor welding skills with the welder and some basic box frame that can slip into each other and 4, 4 inch high wheels (2 swiveling)You want the wheels tall enough so the crane/hoist can slide under to mount/remove the engine. A length of angle iron to hang the radiator and to create a bracket for your control panel . Which will be your own design.

The radiator is out of one of my cars. The control panel is spare gauge parts and the start switch I went fancy on and purchased new.

You are in England correct?
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Sounds good. Not beyond my meger skills. :)
I did see a build like this on Youtube. I simply dont have the time for this kinda extra work really. Got a 17 month old. A Wife who is 5 days away from giving Birth and she's also studying for her degree and has two exams in 2 weeks time. :D

England? How dare you!

Im Scottish. :p
 
Congratulations!!!!!!

And on your location. My humble apology.
I hate to upset the Scott’s & Irish, the outcome is never a happy one. (LMAO)
I should have said, “across the pond?”
:lol:
 
rumblefish360 said:
Congratulations!!!!!!

And on your location. My humble apology.
I hate to upset the Scott’s & Irish, the outcome is never a happy one. (LMAO)
I should have said, “across the pond?”
:lol:
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Cheers, Baby number 4 :O

Im only messing around. I work in Norway so Im used to being called English. :D
 
So I had a couple of hours this evening and I whipped the heads off the 360. A lot of crystallized oil/crud in the heads and sump, also on the tops of the pistons and the lip at the top where the piston does not travel up to. But once I removed the crud from the lip of the Bores there was next to no wear at all. I could feel a very slight lip at the top of the bores, not even remotely able to get a finger nail on and impossible to see, just can feel it running my finger tip over.

One bore has a partial score, not all the way up and I can just feel it with a finger nail. Quite annoying but here we are.

As there is a lot of black crud on top of the Pistons Im not sure what do do next? Pull the Pistons and clean them up and re-ring? Owr just leave them as is? No pics tonight but I'll get them tomorrow.

Again, Im hoping to just change the Cam, lifters and install DIY Ported 2.02" Valve Heads that will be shaved somewhat.

Plus my Weiand Action Plus and Holley 670cfm Street Avenger.
 
With your home life, put each piston at TDC with the engine turned sideways on the stand. Shop vac and scrape off the excess, maybe use a soft brass brass brush and gumout carb cleaner to detail clean. Get it together, have it ready to rush your wife to delivery room in.
 
I have used a steel wire brush, soft brush, not a nasty thick hard wire, and no issues. The idea being not to score the crowns!
:lol:
 
Sounds good, I was thinking brass cup brush in drill for quick and dirty, but I tend to push my luck sometimes!
 
Hummm, I didn’t think of that.
I used a small tooth brush sized brass and steel brush with lots of spray on degreaser with the engine on its side like Garret said. The deck was slightly passed 90* so debris would fall out and not into the space between the cylinder and piston.
 
rumblefish360 said:
I have used a steel wire brush, soft brush, not a nasty thick hard wire, and no issues. The idea being not to score the crowns!
:lol:
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Not scoring the crowns? It that an issue? What could happen? Create a weak spot maybe? Or somewhere where heat can build up?
 
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