Howdy. I just received a fbo timing plate for my 360 distributor. Wondering if you guys can help me with where i should start with for timing. 1978 police 360, stock bottom end and pistons, stock 72 340 intake, thermoquad carb, stock exhaust manifolds, 214/224 dur @50 .443 .465 sealed power cam, 596 heads with mr gasket thin head gaskets. Thanks
360 distributor set up
- Thread starter ike61
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MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
I'd start with 18 degree initial and 34 degrees mech advance. All in by 2800-3200 rpm
And advance from there
And advance from there
Rapid Robert
Well-Known Member
in the past I've read of several ways to set the initial dead on. there just was a post on the inaccuracies of the FBO plate (but said it works good other than that). he said 10 on the plate is 6 deg.. 12 is 7 14 is 8.5 16 is 10 18 is 11. & I would confirm that your light is dead on.
I put one in my distributor recently
It is dead on.
I used the 12 degree slots
20 initial 32 total mechanical advance.
I'd put it in with what you want and check it
If for some reason it's not right it's not that hard to change it.
Also I agree with mopar official
That would be a good place to start.
18 initial 16 degree slots = 34 total mechanical advance.
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67Dart273
Well-Known Member
...........AND...........OP if you have not done this before, both guys above are talking about CRANKSHAFT degrees
Just about all books that detail advance specs "let's say" you were to look up a 68 340 or 67 440, etc, put the distributor specs in DISTRIBUTOR degrees which are 1/2 "crank."
Just about all books that detail advance specs "let's say" you were to look up a 68 340 or 67 440, etc, put the distributor specs in DISTRIBUTOR degrees which are 1/2 "crank."
If this is a rebuilt engine, it will likely run hot when first started. To keep temp as low as possible, set initial timing to about 20*.
- if the engine is out of the car, adjust dist position so that the reluctor tip for #1 cyl is just past centre of the pole piece. Ready to fire.
- if the engine is in the car, it is often hard to line up the reluctor with a rear mounted dist. This works very well: set to 20* as above. Get a portable radio & position it next to the coil high tension lead. Turn on the radio & tune it between stations [ just static ]. Turn on the ign. Rotate the dist in the opposite direction to normal rotation & you will hear a 'click' when the reluctor is correctly lined up. Tighten the dist clamp.
- if the engine is out of the car, adjust dist position so that the reluctor tip for #1 cyl is just past centre of the pole piece. Ready to fire.
- if the engine is in the car, it is often hard to line up the reluctor with a rear mounted dist. This works very well: set to 20* as above. Get a portable radio & position it next to the coil high tension lead. Turn on the radio & tune it between stations [ just static ]. Turn on the ign. Rotate the dist in the opposite direction to normal rotation & you will hear a 'click' when the reluctor is correctly lined up. Tighten the dist clamp.
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TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
Wrong. Exactly the opposite is true. Better to be over advanced during break in to keep heat down. 2500 rpm and 30-40 degrees
During break in get it fired right away and up to rpm, set timing at 36 and let it run. If you reduce RPM a little, put light on it again and keep it at 34-36 range minimum. Engine has no load on it so running a ton of timing isn't an issue. Think highway driving with vac adv and pulling 45+ timing numbers, more load on the engine there than at break in.
I'd run it in the 16-20 range for initial and 34-36 total once you get it going.
You can do a hillbilly check of the plate for accuracy before ever putting the distributor back together. If you have a degree wheel or a protractor and construction paper. Make a small degree section on construction paper and pop a hole at the center point. Drop this or degree wheel over shaft. Pop the rotor on the shaft with plate installed. Tape a zip tie to extend tip out. Measure how far distributor rotor advance/moves. Multiply by 2, that's a rough idea what the mechanical adv will be.
I'd run it in the 16-20 range for initial and 34-36 total once you get it going.
You can do a hillbilly check of the plate for accuracy before ever putting the distributor back together. If you have a degree wheel or a protractor and construction paper. Make a small degree section on construction paper and pop a hole at the center point. Drop this or degree wheel over shaft. Pop the rotor on the shaft with plate installed. Tape a zip tie to extend tip out. Measure how far distributor rotor advance/moves. Multiply by 2, that's a rough idea what the mechanical adv will be.
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