360 magnum ?

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MOPARCODY

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My duster has the 395hp engine in it with the eq heads. My question is that the car used to lope really hard even after warmup but now for some reason it has a smooth idle and I don’t know why. The eq heads use the factory magnum rockers that are just torqued down. Is it possible that they need to be re torqued?
 
I would think if your rockers are loose enough to smooth out your cams idle you'd have tickity-tackity rattle tick toc noise that would have you scared!
 
Exactly. And they are quiet. It’s a roller cam so you’d think that it wouldn’t flatten the cam
 
Exactly. And they are quiet. It’s a roller cam so you’d think that it wouldn’t flatten the cam
what size of cam? Even if a lobe or two went flat, the other 6 or 7 cylinders would be lumping away out the back. Is there a loss of power?
 
I can't imagine...........only thing that comes to mind is a change in timing/ idle fuel mixture. Is this carb or EFI and what kind of EFI/ ignition you run?
 
Was anything done under the hood that preceded the difference in the "really hard lope" what ever that means. Any power or driving difference ? oil pressure ? water temp ?
Any more details that you haven't told us ? Just one day it was different ?
 
The ign timing at idle has advanced....for some reason. Stuck dist weights or dist moved.
 
Yes is sounds like you have tuned it better!It now idles better because the timing is now where it likes!
 
Check rockers....
Check lifters and cam...
If you didn't change anything then check your distributor springs and timing, and of course the idle-rpm.
Have you simultaneously lost power?

The ign timing at idle has advanced....for some reason. Stuck dist weights or dist moved.

This above, step 3. I’d also like to add, do a compression test. If you have the tool on hand, it’s a quick one to do. The tool is cheap and valuable. Get one if you don’t have it.

These are the quick and easy checks that should be done. The distributor is the easiest. Under the valve cover could uncover small or catastrophic issues.
Start with the simple stuff first.
 
This above, step 3. I’d also like to add, do a compression test. If you have the tool on hand, it’s a quick one to do. The tool is cheap and valuable. Get one if you don’t have it.

These are the quick and easy checks that should be done. The distributor is the easiest. Under the valve cover could uncover small or catastrophic issues.
Start with the simple stuff first.
How do I check to see if a distributor weight is stuck
 
pop the cap off...and see if you can move the rotor ....clock wise a small amount...
 
CW that is "small block" distributor advance should move further clockwise against a spring........and then spring back
 
Another possibility, unlikely, but it is an unlikely problem....
Valves were not fully closing because of valve train adjustment. Now, with a little bit of wear in the v/train, they are closing & idle is smoother.
 
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