1. mikedevore

    mikedevore Well-Known Member

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    I have a 360 Stock Eliminator engine.
    It has now spun #6 rod bearing twice.
    Once in a stock 360 block & now again in a MP race block.
    Two different blocks & two different cranks.
    Replaced both rods on that journal the first time.
    Clearances are .002-.003

    Suggestions?
     
  2. nm9stheham

    nm9stheham Well-Known Member

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    Check with Moper (I think).... seems like he, or someone here, has been down the road of solving that exact issue. Something about the oil not reliably making the turn down the passage to the #4 main.

    Have you drilled out/enlarged the oil passages to the mains? What pump and pressures are you running? Oil type and weight?
     
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    • mikedevore

      mikedevore Well-Known Member

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      75PSI cold , 65PSI hot at idle, 70PSI at the stripe. 10W30 oil Valvoline race, Royal Purple 10/30 after break in.
      The Race block has the bigger oil passages.
      I have built a lot of bracket engines with no bearing issues, this one is kicking my butt & wallet.
       
    • brian6pac

      brian6pac Well-Known Member

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      Rods reconditioned, what RPM, what oil, and so on.
      Full groove mains? what bearings are you running?
      I would run strait wt oil, 40 wt. I ran a 340 over 7000 RPM for many years with no bearing problems,
       
      Last edited: Oct 15, 2018
    • mikedevore

      mikedevore Well-Known Member

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      New Manley rods, full groove mains, shift @ 6500, 7100 thru the traps. used non syn Valvoline 10W30 for break in. Switch to Royal Purple Syn 10W30
      Running Clevite 77 bearings
       
    • Hellrats

      Hellrats Just another dumbass FABO Gold Member

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      I think this is what you are talking about. It's in the Mopar Performance book. I've done it many times myself.

      IMG_20180106_115329839.jpg
       
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      • Hellrats

        Hellrats Just another dumbass FABO Gold Member

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        Read these pages. I used to smoke rods and mains in the circle track car and we ran some serious RPMs . This did the trick for me. The picture I posted is an engine I have for sale right now that had that mod done to it.

        12.jpg

        13.jpg

        14.jpg
         
        Last edited: Oct 15, 2018
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        • moper

          moper FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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          That's the deal - I think I have that same book...lol.
          IMO - you might want to go a little bigger on the main clearance too if your over 7K often. Make sure the suction side is up to snuff too.
           
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          • tonysrt

            tonysrt FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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            Could you give us the specific name of the book that has that mod and the page no.. I have several Mopar books on the small block and the recent one by Larry Shepherd and no pics of that oil mod. I even looked in the big engine book from Mopar that covers all engines and couldn't come up with anything.
             
          • tonysrt

            tonysrt FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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            I just found the info where they describe how to make the mod but no pics. They give size of tube and exactly where to locate the tube. It's in the Small block only Mopar book.
             
          • Hellrats

            Hellrats Just another dumbass FABO Gold Member

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            Pages 12,13, & 14

            IMG_20181015_214637789.jpg
             
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            • pittsburghracer

              pittsburghracer FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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              I’ve never done that mod and I’ve never had issues like you listed. I do love to tube my lifter gallery’s on my small blocks but my sons 360 is running 6.50’s with the only mod being a set screw blocked the lifter valley on the driver side, brad penn 10-40 and a high volume oil pump. Ohh and a Milidon oil pan. My Canton pan was losing oil pressure during my passes.
               
            • Jadaharabi

              Jadaharabi FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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            • tonysrt

              tonysrt FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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              Thanks so much for the info Hellrat. I have that book and looked up oiling and it brought me to page 47. I just looked up the pages you mention and there it was in black & white. Again thanks for that info.
               
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              • Jadaharabi

                Jadaharabi FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                .
                You are tubing the block and running solids.
                The crossover is for when you run hydraulic lifters.
                Besides that Duster of yours is carrying the front wheels half way down the track. Why would you even need oil pressure when your splash lubing your engine. Just kidding love your car.
                 
              • Duane

                Duane Well-Known Member

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                The tubing of the galley and the set screw block off are also in that same book along with the crossover mod. The tubing of the block was the method recommended by Chrysler and the crossover line is the method recommended by Bob Mullen. Both methods are approved. In this day and age imho the tubing or bushing of the lifter bores with small .030 lifter feed holes is the better way to go if running a roller or if you just want wet lifter oiling.
                There are many non believers of the crossover line mod though, but it's been around a long long time. Number 4 main trying to feed rockers and cam bearing main bearing and rod bearings with high velocity. It just can,t do it.
                 
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                • Duane

                  Duane Well-Known Member

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                  You could also be running one of the new generation of bushed or needle bearing axle pressurized roller lifters. You need a wet system for these now too. I am trying the new comp cams sportsman roller lifter with the bronze bushing option.
                  I hope my dart runs like Pittsburg racers duster does. That thing hauls.
                   
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