360 Rebuild for 1974 Swinger

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Bl1zzard

Bl1zzard

Well-Known Member
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Location
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Hey all,

I'm on the way to rebuilding my 360, if you seen my other threads, you'll know why. We pulled it after it dropped #6. It's at the machine shop now and they said the block and crank are in good condition for a rebuild, so off we go. Here's what I ordered from Northern Auto Parts.

Chrysler 360 1974-1981 - Chrysler 360 1974-1981 Master Kit
MainBrgs: Clevite Mains #MS1266P
Pistons: .30 Sealed Power Hypereutectic flattop pistons H405CP
Rings: .30 Molyrings
RodBrgs: std
Gaskets: Felpro #260-1033
Rods: Clevite bearings CB481P
Camshaft: Sealed Power CS1019R 214/224 dur @50 .443 .465
Durabond stock style Cam Bearings
Federal Mogul stock style Lifters
Timing: Cloyes true roller 9-1103
Melling stock style Oil Pump
Brass: Brass freeze plugs

I'll be reusing the stock heads, pushrods, Edelbrock intake and Holley 750 double-pumper.

The machine shop will be boring .030" once I have the pistons for them to ensure fit. They will install the frost plugs and oil galley plugs. They will also be installing the cam bearings and the press-fit wrist pins for the new pistons.

The rest of the assembly is up to me and my son. I plan on doing some mild porting on the stock heads, thanks to those of you that have posted how-to's on that subject.

What am I missing? Any gotcha's that I should be aware of? I've been watching lots of You Tube videos (JustMoparJoe is good) on the subject and it seems doable with what I've got to work with.

Thanks in advance.
 
You're going to get lots of opinions here. First, a few questions....automatic or manual transmission? What rear axle ratio? Is this going to be a street car? Is gas mileage a concern? Compression ratio?
 
from being a long time reader on this site I can tell you that your cam selection is all wrong and it will always be wrong no matter what you choose. All cam manufacturers are bad. You will have to buy your own cam grinding equipment and work at it until you get it right until you get that extra 3 hp that you’ve lost by not selecting the right cam. If you had posted your shoe size and ring size it would have helped. Good luck
 
The 405 piston will get you in the low 8s for compression if running a regular style head , that cam will be fine with timing much like everyone else here recommends, headers and moderate exhaust , jet your carb two below stock size as a baseline it will be just fine , you can fine tune it from there and enjoy working together with your son on your project.
You will have a solid baseline and can add to your build as time, funds or need for more happens.
I like the post about cam selection above , awesome.
 
cudamark said:
You're going to get lots of opinions here. First, a few questions....automatic or manual transmission? What rear axle ratio? Is this going to be a street car? Is gas mileage a concern? Compression ratio?
Click to expand...
Sorry 904 tranny, don't know about the rear end except it is a 7.25". It's going to be street car for sure, we have no drag tracks here anymore. Gas mileage isn't a concern. Not even slightly skilled enough to know how to figure out compression ratio. Just trying to get something dependable and fun to drive. Still has the old 14" steel wheels on it. Someday, when I win the lotto, I'll do more.
 
Bl1zzard said:
Not even slightly skilled enough to know how to figure out compression ratio..
Click to expand...

It's not hard to check the compression ratio of your parts when you assemble the engine, read this thread it explains how to do it....

How to Check Compression


Also here's a thread on how to rebuild it yourself, I am not finished with the series yet, but am up to the short block... Start with the first one and there are links to the next ones as you go along...

How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 1: Block Prep
 
You can ask questions along the way , you should check your compression ratio and degree your cam as it will be a learning experience for both you and your son.
I dont know who your going to use for machining but let them know your intentions and they should set you on the right path.
You might need valve springs depending on what you may have , here is a pic of one of my engines (shortblock) with the 405s
20160410_191359.jpg
 
Right off hand, here's a few observations and recommendations. First, I'd get a stronger rear end. Slant 6's will blow a 7 1/4. Second, if you're going to run cast iron heads and pump gas, I'd keep the compression ratio under 9.5:1. Third, I think that's too much carb for that setup. I'd look for something around 650 CFM if you're running a Holley. You can go bigger if you run a Thermoquad, but, it's really not necessary. Since you're not racing, you want something that's not a bear to operate on the street.
 
65rbdodge said:
from being a long time reader on this site I can tell you that your cam selection is all wrong and it will always be wrong no matter what you choose. All cam manufacturers are bad. You will have to buy your own cam grinding equipment and work at it until you get it right until you get that extra 3 hp that you’ve lost by not selecting the right cam. If you had posted your shoe size and ring size it would have helped. Good luck
Click to expand...
:rofl: Aint that the truth!
 
cudamark said:
Right off hand, here's a few observations and recommendations. First, I'd get a stronger rear end. Slant 6's will blow a 7 1/4. Second, if you're going to run cast iron heads and pump gas, I'd keep the compression ratio under 9.5:1. Third, I think that's too much carb for that setup. I'd look for something around 650 CFM if you're running a Holley. You can go bigger if you run a Thermoquad, but, it's really not necessary. Since you're not racing, you want something that's not a bear to operate on the street.
Click to expand...
I agree, when I can afford it, a rear end will be next in line. I'm not planning any neutral drops or even stop light to stop light brawls, so I think the rear will hold on for now. As for the Holley, yes I agree. I do have a Carter AFB that came with the car, but it's sad and old, I've rebuilt it twice but I'm not sure it's worth saving. The air horn at the top has a piece cracked off where it looks like someone dropped it on the floor.
 
The machine shop recommends different springs (VS-678) and pushrods with my cam selection. Using the stock heads, with a valve job and mild porting. He said to get a pushrod checker tool. My rebuild kit has finally arrived in Canada, it only took 4 weeks.:canada: Getting excited. I insulated my garage this weekend in anticipation of spending the winter working on the engine.
 
Bl1zzard said:
The machine shop recommends different springs (VS-678) and pushrods with my cam selection. Using the stock heads, with a valve job and mild porting. He said to get a pushrod checker tool. My rebuild kit has finally arrived in Canada, it only took 4 weeks.:canada: Getting excited. I insulated my garage this weekend in anticipation of spending the winter working on the engine.
Click to expand...
Keep us posted as u go with lots of pics. I will be doing a very similar build this winter. My block going to machine shop next week.RJ
 
I can't find the full specs on that cam, so I wouldn't buy it.

I sorta remember,that sealed Power cams have pretty gentle ramps, and the acceleration ramps are long and slow, perfect for long life, but deadly to cylinder pressure at a nominal 8/1.
I'd like to see the advertised specs,before dropping coin on any old 214 cam.
There are 214s that "bleed" pressure at low rpm, that suck for take-off, and there are 214s that are better at capturing pressure. and there are 214 solid lifter cams that can give you a surprising amount of torque with the highest pressure of all. Since they all cost about the same, you might as well look towards getting some good bang for your buck.
The point is, pressure is power.
Wiki says you are at 3438 ft elevation. That's gonna cost you pressure.
Your engine cannot begin to make pressure until the intake valve is closed and not leaking. This is especially important at low rpm, which with a lo-stall TC and typical for 7.25 rears with 2.76 gears, yur engine will be trapped at. Typically, 30mph is 2800 in first gear. That 214*cam is gonna peak around 4800, and your engine won't get there until over 50 mph. So you need all the pressure you can get. Without the pressure, you have to drive deeper into the carb to get moving and deeper to cruise at..... both of which cost you mpgs.
At 3438 ft elevation, you are looking at a 15psi or more pressure loss, already,
so
if you don't pay attention to when the intake valves close, on a nominal 8/1 Scr build, you could be looking at a bit of disappointment.
 
AJ/FormS said:
I can't find the full specs on that cam, so I wouldn't buy it.

I sorta remember,that sealed Power cams have pretty gentle ramps, and the acceleration ramps are long and slow, perfect for long life, but deadly to cylinder pressure at a nominal 8/1.
I'd like to see the advertised specs,before dropping coin on any old 214 cam.
There are 214s that "bleed" pressure at low rpm, that suck for take-off, and there are 214s that are better at capturing pressure. and there are 214 solid lifter cams that can give you a surprising amount of torque with the highest pressure of all. Since they all cost about the same, you might as well look towards getting some good bang for your buck.
The point is, pressure is power.
Wiki says you are at 3438 ft elevation. That's gonna cost you pressure.
Your engine cannot begin to make pressure until the intake valve is closed and not leaking. This is especially important at low rpm, which with a lo-stall TC and typical for 7.25 rears with 2.76 gears, yur engine will be trapped at. Typically, 30mph is 2800 in first gear. That 214*cam is gonna peak around 4800, and your engine won't get there until over 50 mph. So you need all the pressure you can get. Without the pressure, you have to drive deeper into the carb to get moving and deeper to cruise at..... both of which cost you mpgs.
At 3438 ft elevation, you are looking at a 15psi or more pressure loss, already,
so
if you don't pay attention to when the intake valves close, on a nominal 8/1 Scr build, you could be looking at a bit of disappointment.
Click to expand...
Wow, if you don't mind me saying, huh? That's way more information than I could even hope to understand. Just trying to build a nice engine to cruise around and have some fun with. I didn't think I needed an engineering degree to do that. :steering:Thanks for all that anyway. :thankyou:I'll just go back to watching YouTube burnouts now...
 
Bl1zzard said:
Wow, if you don't mind me saying, huh? That's way more information than I could even hope to understand. Just trying to build a nice engine to cruise around and have some fun with. I didn't think I needed an engineering degree to do that. :steering:Thanks for all that anyway. :thankyou:I'll just go back to watching YouTube burnouts now...
Click to expand...

Yeah, I did the same thing. I'm sure my cam is a sh%^tty choice, I'm still running my ORIGINAL 7.25 rear end and stock converter that came with the used engine/trans from a 1973 motorhome. Oh, and a lousy Torker intake too. I bought what I could get my hands on because 1) parts are expensive, 2) parts are harder to get in Canada, and 3) parts are even MORE expensive in Canada.

But every time I go for a drive, I'm happy and I get lotsa nods. So build what you want.
 
Bl1zzard said:
What am I missing? Any gotcha's that I should be aware of?
Click to expand...

Bl1zzard said:
didn't think I needed an engineering degree to do that.
Click to expand...

as you wish.
But if it feels like a slanty when you put it into gear, now you know why. Your DCR could end up down around 6.7/1.... or less, IDK the specs on that cam.
 
What cam did you buy? 214 224? 443 465? It has a very slight idle , I had one in a 71 360 in a 75 Dart Sport with headers intake (performer) and 4.10 gears and it ran mid 14s and a 14.30 best in Calgary on an average day. There are worse choices. Im sure I had factory 340 springs in mine that I had laying around. If I remember you had a single with a dampner spring , have them checked out at the machine shop.
 
Those pistons and a .028 head gasket will get you 8.7 to 1. The cam will be ok for what you want. Bowl port the heads and call it good. If the intake is a performer, it will have the 318 ports, so match them to the heads. Get a 8.25 or 8.75 as soon as you can afford it. Hopefully 318 will run will chime in. He has a combo similar that runs excellent. Most of all, have fun.
 
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